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My switch from plastic to Tanfo


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Honestly, just tried mine out after the polish on new PDO springs.
CCI Blazers were perfect, but I always have extraction issues with those (and only those).
Aguila was 90%
Perfecta was 95-98%
This was all factory ammo.
All light strikes went off with additional hits (DA or SA were usually enough to light them off.... one or 2 Agulias took 1/2 dozen DA hits to light off).
Dying to get that PDO firing pin

P.S. All these different brands ran 100% with a wolf 14# and I am currently trying to get a 13# PDO spring to work.


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Here's a question somewhat related to all of the Tanfo primer lighting discussions. Its in regards to the pencil test. I have several springs from PD I have tested out. In my Tanfo, or previously my Shadow, I can launch a pencil say 12"-20" above the barrel (depending on spring combos), and may get get light strikes on some of the lesser height setups. I put a pencil in my G34 and it will not even come close to leaving the barrel, yet it will light everything. How is that possible? Shape of striker vs a pin? Or because the location of striker spring vs location of FP spring?

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3 hours ago, ARy said:

The 650 nor the 550 have a function to control primer seating depth. You need to run a 1050, Loadmaster,  or hand prime. 

You can't compare what your S3 didn't light of to your M&P with a factory striker spring. 

I could pretty much guarantee that the way you have your gun setup, I could send you some ammo with a 12# PD spring, and they'd all pop...

You sincerely think everyone should sell their Tanfoglios? Because if it were that finicky of a firearm - it won't eat ammo loaded on perhaps the most popular press used by USPSA shooters - most of us would have.

(I'm willing to be a lot of Tanfo shooters have their guns running just fine off of an XL650 diet, I just need to figure my issue out.)

I have more faith in my ability to troubleshoot this thing than that. 

I'd go back to a factory hammer spring and  the 8.5# trigger that came with it before I'd deal with hand priming or buy a $2k reloading press just to feed one picky gun.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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Memphis - what firing pin spring are you running? PD's spring has a built in stop for overtravel, I'm wondering if that would have any impact? I'm running stock internals but a 13lb PD hammer spring and Xtreme "light" FP spring, 800 rounds with CCI primers on a 650 and no issues so far.  Could be another tolerance issue if your FP channel was a bit short?

I've got S&B primers to try, have not had the chance to shoot any yet.

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Good question.

(Also, which press is your CCI-primed ammo loaded on?)

My gun is fitted with the PD firing pin spring. If I can't figure it out, perhaps I'll try the E.G. Light firing pin spring.

ARy keeps hammering on primer depth being the problem, but I think he's off base: You can't hit a primer more than a dozen times and fail to set it off it that's only happening because it's a good primer which is a few thousandths high.

Those almost always light on hit #2.

I believe that for whatever reason, my gun doesn't have the firing pin force that it should. I finally will have time to tear it down and take a look tonight.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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CCI's loaded on a 650 that has no more than 2k loaded at this point.  I'll see if my calipers can measure the FP channel depth tonight.

 

Hopefully my barrel will be back today, USPS is f'n slow this time of year. If it gets back I should have time before Christmas to hit an indoor range to run the CCI's and S&B's in the reamed barrel.

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I do understand that. However, my intention was to set the Tanfo up to in no way qualify as a light striking gun.

If that meant running the factory hammer spring and the gun has a 7.5lb DA? I'd do that, if I had to. But I know there have to be a ton of Tanfos running around on non-federal primers loaded on 650s, so I'll figure out what's going on with my gun to make it run like theirs.

Trigger pull weight isnt as important to me as a gun that will run on marginal ammunition when filthy.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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2 hours ago, ARy said:

Also, to your point about the 650 being one of the most popular presses - I'm not disagreeing with you, I 100% agree. It's a great press, and I think it's a great buy for the average reloader. But we're not discussing other USPSA shooters, we're discussing YOUR gun, and it's intermittent light strike issues. If I read correctly, you're thinking about trying a Wolf spring or a EG spring? Why? If you can't light small pistol, non-magnum, or rifle primers with a PD hammer spring - the hammer spring isn't your problem...

I think you feel as though I'm trying to discredit your ability to reload or work on a fire arm - I am in no way doing that, and, again, I hope you don't take it that way. I'm just describing what I know would fix your intermittent issue. 

I'm considering changing to a Wolff or E.G. Medium spring because they're heavier. They'll light the ammo that comes off the press that I use - along with the 15k Magnum CCI primers that I have. Both of which I'm going to be using.

Changing something in that mix isn't negotiable - assuming I don't find a way to punch primers in more deeply and consistently using the 650.

Something will have to change on the gun.

But I truly believe all of this is us talking in circles. Between the firing pin block, perhaps there's a burr in the firing pin channel, I have a press that's got an absolutely filthy priming system... I think I'll get it running on a 14lb PD spring eventually - with the help of this forum with time and effort.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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The change to the EG medium or Wolff 14 or 15 WILL fix the light strike problem. EGM is about 15/16#, iirc.

But will do so by masking the root problem. That problem could be primer depth (it usually is), it could be a hanging FPB, rough surface, etc. Or it could be the primers are too hard to ignite (batches do vary)

Obviously, finding and correcting the root cause is desired, but going bang is even more important! Personally, I'd  install a high rate  spring, live/dry fire 1000 times and inspect. You will see things to fix. Then fix them and drop spring rate. Heck, i actually did exactly that!  it worked, found things in the gun then found it was inconsistent primer depth.

 

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I think I had the firing pin block very insufficiently fitted. Contact was visible with the "paint firing pin with sharpie then dryfire 50 times" method. Not enough to cause peening on the pin, but I hope it was enough to cause the firing pin to be slowed when firing, and cause my issues.

I removed a good bit more from the block tonight, shooting for the block to barely remain tall enough to function before the trigger is pulled.

We will see. I won't get to test fire it again for nearly a week to find out, though.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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For reference, I don't think it will need to go to extremes to get your primers popping.
My gun has the (reportedly) worst firing pin, AND the worst hammer available.
Even before polishing, that set up was absolutely 100% on CCI, Aguila, and Perfecta (Fiocchi) ammo with a #14 spring.
That said, they all pass the plunk test, so I am confident my barrel is good.

I don't know exactly HOW the springs are rated (#14 per inch of travel? Are some longer giving higher preload, thus more pressure to the hammer?)
But if #14=#14, the PDO #14 SHOULD pop anything in your gun.


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41 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 I think I had the firing pin block very insufficiently fitted. Contact was visible with the "paint firing pin with sharpie then dryfire 50 times" method. Not enough to cause peening on the pin, but I hope it was enough to cause the firing pin to be slowed when firing, and cause my issues.

I removed a good bit more from the block tonight, shooting for the block to barely remain tall enough to function before the trigger is pulled.

We will see. I won't get to test fire it again for nearly a week to find out, though.

 

 

 

 

Wait a week to find out??? OMG! That's gonna be a rough week. I'm glad I can literally walk 50 steps to my chrono station and test fire.

 

 

 

 

 

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... imIm in no rush, John. Next match isn't until Jan 14! 

And regarding a backyard range? That leaves you with absolutely no excuses for being anything short of A or M! :P

I can always lean on the "I only get to shoot twice a month and dryfire makes my vag hurt" excuse!

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I've had that same thought. Particularly since several people chimed in saying they had to do zero fitting...

I had a chat with Johnbu explaining what I was doing wrong with it. That the block isn't slowly dropped as your trigger travels - that the sear below it snaps down after the shot breaks.

On the next range trip, I'm pulling the FPB out at the first sign of any trouble. Won't be waiting to see if it happens again, etc.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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3 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Have you taken any effort to seat primers especially deep, or are you running your press as per usual with your other guns?

What press do you load on?

I am running through my stockpile of Atlanta arms, blazer, and Winchester. No issues aside from an occasional poorly seated primer. Usually go off second strike.

There is some issue you haven't found yet. Keep digging

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Next time you shoot... Pull the firing pin block out and see what happens I bet you're 100%. I'll tell you right now, I have the original block, and while it doesn't block anything (lol), I also have no issues with light strikes. I'm going to fit an extended pin this week or next week... Whenever I get to it.

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Pretty much sums it up, Moto.

I miss running reduced Striker springs in Glock & Smith and still going bang on high Winchester primers.

But I'm in love with the gun enough to keep plugging away. I'm 95% certain it's an under-fit or over-fit FPB, just like you and ARy.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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