Wolf hammer spring better than patriot defense

[JusticeOfToren]

13 hours ago, ShortBus said:

Had 30+ light strikes today. Really curious what is causing it. Polish job seems good, everything is smooth pull wise, doesn't look like pin is making contact with FPB. 

 

Ammo was loaded on buddies mark 7 1050 and primers where deep, as deep as they'd go. He told me the measurement but I forgot (.009 maybe?)

When I loaded manually with 650, the upstroke is the part I pushed hardest.  I never had light strikes with my manual loads. 

Then I started using Mark 7 Auto Drive for 650,  I started having 30% light strikes with the ammo initially.  Then I realized that I adjusted the primer depth to 3 on a 0-10 scale where 0 is deepest and 10 is shallowest, in order to make the auto drive run smoothly, which resulted in shallow seating primers.  There is no way I could tell the primer depth difference with my eyes, or touching with fingers, between my previous manual loads and the auto drive loads configured with primer depth = 3.  However, once I switched the primer depth setting to 0 (which means the auto drive will occasionally stop due to too much force needed to seat the primers deepest on certain headstamp brass with small primer pockets, like S&B and some FC ones), the light strike disappeared completely. 

I think reading from your problem, it may be that your friend's Mark 7 1050 primer depth is not the "deepest" setting.  My guess is that his/her Mark 7 is set on a primer depth setting that works for him/her, but may not be optimal for your Tanfo.  Does he/she run a Tanfo too?

My suggestion is to ask him/her to adjust primer depth setting on the auto drive to deepest setting. If this eliminates the light strikes, then the primer depth is cause. 

 

Edited November 13, 2016 by JusticeOfToren

[ShortBus]

He shoots a tanfo, shoots and loads ~35,000 of these rounds a year out of his tanfo, and my tanfo is his old match gun. 

With his primers you can see they are all the way in, there is a tiny ring around the primer from the primer insert deal (no idea on the proper name of that part) bottoming the primer out. 

Gonna see how dirt my chamber is and check the FPB again hopefully today. Will report back. 

[ryridesmotox]

Are you Still on the 12lbs spring?

[ShortBus]

Still on the 12. 

 

Chamber checked a few. Go all the way in but won't spin by hand. Chamber is dirty but just black as far as I can tell, not much build up. Thinking about opening her up. Forced one down as hard as I could and then forcefully spun it with pliers and pulled it back out, no marks on bullet. No dykem or any marking compound but looks to be grabbing up towards the end of the chamber close to the throat. 

[johnbu]

I would clean and retest.  it could just be crudded up. 

 

Just to be clear, a "pass" plunk test the round will drop in and easily spin. AND if you press hard (or if using a no powder no primer dummy a solid rap) it will still easily spin and drop out.   None of mine (4) would pass before sending to Beven Grams to get reamed. All pass after and he return shipped the day he got them (awesome service).

Which primers are these again?

[MemphisMechanic]

If rounds won't spin freely, and fall out effortlessly after being tapped on the backside the moment you flip the barrel over... you've found much of your problem.

[ryridesmotox]

Mine used to get hung up and not seat, or it would not spin (depending on the cartridge). After having it reamed, it's 100% ignition on CCIs down to 13. I have a 12, but I'm fine with the 13 and 14. 12 seemed to work. And the trigger was very light in my setup. Too light for my paws 

Edited November 14, 2016 by ryridesmotox

[ShortBus]

Think I'm gonna see about getting her reamed

[ShortBus]

Where does Mr. Gram work? Google didn't show much. 

[Polymer]

21 minutes ago, ShortBus said:

Where does Mr. Gram work? Google didn't show much. 

Grams Engineering. Cali

[johnbu]

He's in California.  Real nice guy.  Can't say enough good about him.

 

If you have a load you want guaranteed to run, include a DUMMY mocked up no powder no primer.

[MemphisMechanic]

What @johnbu said. And if you want to load bullet X at 1.150" with total confidence, send him a dummy round at 1.155 or 1.160 and ask him to cut your barrel so that one clears.

[ryridesmotox]

http://www.gramsengineering.com

 

 

Edited November 15, 2016 by ryridesmotox

[emjei]

PD #14 ( DA at 6# and a 19 inch pencil test ) .... Titan / Extreme Sear / OEM FP / BOLO / Polish polish etc 

Freedom Munition 147 ( Remanufactured )

HawkSight Ammo 115 .......    yeah I know its cheap ammo 

 

Does she need reamming ?? 

 

 

 

[Nathanb]

That's a pretty good primer dent IMO it could be bad primers. Especially on the bottom

[MemphisMechanic]

2 hours ago, emjei said:

 

Does she need reamming ?? 

Take the barrel out of your gun. Drop 50 of each into the barrel and see if they drop in freely, spin smoothly (not spinning = bullet is shoved into the rifling) and if they drop back out effortlessly when you flip the barrel muzzle-up.

If so, reaming won't help.

If some or all of them are hanging up because they don't drop in all the way  or won't spin, then yes it needs to be reamed.

Edited November 16, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[ryridesmotox]

I think freedom is using the new extreme primers. I hear those are hard to ignite. Never dealt with the other stuff.

The tolerances on these guns can be bad. I have gauged every one on my Lyman... 4 stock 2s in all... Everyone was different. And not by a little. Stock pull weights vary from 8lbs DA 4lbs SA (lightest) to 12lbs DA 6lbs SA heaviest. That is horrible IMHO. I got my gun to run 100% with my setup on CCI primers. But it required a reamed barrel.