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Plain Black Sights For G34?


boo radley

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I recently picked up a G34, as something different to shoot and practice with; different from my 1911 .45, that is. It certainly IS different. At first I thought -- what have I DONE?, but the Glock is beginning to grow on me....

I still can't get used to the sights, however. I tried using a black Sharpie marker, and blacking out the white lines and dot, but it looked even worse.

Anyone have any experience with sending the slide out to, say, Novak? Or other recommendations? All I want is a set of simple black sights -- no fiber optic, nor tritium. Fixed is ok, *provided* it hits to the point of aim. Right now, I have the sights bottomed-out, and hard right, and it still shoots high left. :(

Many thx

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It sounds like a set of Heinie SlantPro's would do you some good. I have the "race cut" version on my G17 and they work great. I immediately cut my group size in half compared to the stock sights. They are available from Custom Glock Racing. They are plain black and have a sharp sight picture. They also seem to be taller than the stock sights, like a 1911.

Enjoy your new Glock!

Brian

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I just put a set of Heinie slant pros on my G35.  I really like them a lot... :)

The Heinie slant pros with the Custom Glock Racing "cut" look like *exactly* what I'm after.

Is installation a DIY job? A $5.00 front sight tool is mentioned, and they sell a $75 press-looking thing for the rear sight. Are these tools really needed, to replace my sights with Heinies?

What about adjusting, after installation? I guess I'd need to...file as needed?

thx

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I looked at the CGR race cut sights, but I went with a standard set from Brownell's. I don't think that I would want the rear sight cut any wider, but that's probably up to each person. The front sight uses a screw to hold it on. I had a tool from a previous sight installation. If you could find a small enough socket or nut driver that would work, too. Make sure that you use locktite to hold it on. I have a sight pusher that I picked up somewhere in the past. I suppose a brass or plastic rod could be used to tap the old sight out and the new sight in. Just take your time and go slowly. :)

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I picked up the Slant Pro's from brownells because CGR didn't have them in stock. You'll definetly want to deepen the rear notch, I took a little off each side too, just get some miniautre (sp) files. I'd recommend at least trying a fiber optic front sight. It's much easier and faster to pick up.

If you have punches, just go at it. I had to pick up a nut driver to get at the front sight. Took it to the grinder so it would fit through the hole in the slide on my 34. The back took a lot of hits with the hammer to get it into position. Perfect, didn't even have to move it when I went to sight it in. :blink:

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Grabbed a set of Novak low pro fixed type sights for my G34 and G35 and some blank front sight posts which need some material taken off the top to hit POA. I am still using the OEM front sight and haven't put in the novak version, a special nut driver will be required as it will have to fit the small bottom hole of the slide.

I filed a bit off the rear sights to make installation easier, which consisted of a 2x4 and a hammer. A sight pusher would be easier and cleaner, not to mention windage adjustments could be more accurate. I like the Novaks as the rear sight blade always appears black, more so with a little carbide smoke...

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After many sight installs, I went to the local Napa and noticed some delrin snowmobile runners.

$6 for 3ft of 1" thick delrin makes a lot tof sight install tools.

Cut them to size and hit the hammer on the delrin. No marks and you can use a big hammer.

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There is now a new option for rear sights. David Sevigny is marketing a set of sights for the Glock that seem just perfect to me. I "think" they are made by Scott Warren? The front is a serrated black blade, similar to the Heine measuring .110 in width. The rear sight is similar to a Heine but a bit different. The rear is not serrated and there is a more abrupt edge at the front of the sight to allow one handed slide racking. The front sight installs in the conventional manner with a screw. The rear drifts in and has a set screw to lock it in place. The sight was tight enough in the dovetail that it will hold 100% even without the screw though.

I bought two sets at Area 6 for $60.00 a piece. I installed the first today and shot it. The sight picture is very clean. The narrower front sight made it much easier to make head shots at 25 yards.

I don't have the contact info for the seller but I'm sure David could get you set up. His web site is www.sevignyperformance.com.

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Thx all -- I'm clear on how to install the front sight, if I order it, and it seems the rear sight on the G34 needs to be drifted out -- ideally with a tool like a C-Clamp, but some of y'all do it with a punch of some sort?

Does it matter which side of slide? IOW, is the dove-tail narrower on one side than the other? Hmmm...paying an extra $20 or $30 to have the sights installed for me, and sighted in, is looking better and better. :)

Otherwise, I'll be bringing a hammer, and punch, to the range to adjust for windage, no?

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if youre going to keep the Glock, get the rear site tool, it's easy to use and will not tear up the sites. More importantly for me, it keeps me from using the bigger hammer stroke mentality :D

I haven't noticed a difference in starting on either side. I'd have to find an old armorer's manual for verification on the "proper" way to do it.

It's a simple and quick process for the windage adjustment at the range.

I used to cut down the factory front site with an exacto type blade and found it much quicker to acquire. The new sites referenced in this thread sound like they maybe the ticket.

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I have numerous Glocks and most all have Heinie front and rear. BUT, recently I received and email from Dave Sevigny about his sights. I ordered a set and they are pretty nice. They look just as good as the Heinie's. They are $60 at your door. The installation and description is just as Lawman advised.

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Well, I appreciate all the advice, and jsut finished installing a mixed set -- Dawson fiber optic front, and a plain black Henie rear, from the Custom Glock Racing website. I figure it will be easy enough to replace, or blacken, the front sight if I end up dislike the fiber optic. What the heck.

Installing them couldn't have been easier. Literally, I think I could have removed the G34's factory sights with my bare hands, they were so loose. I barely had to tap the rear sight out. Not good.

The Heine took a bit of whacking to install it, but I used a heavy wood splitting maul. No, seriously -- I tapped it slowly and gently, and used a steel rod I had kicking about, to drift it the rest of the way in, and more or less centered. I don't see "fine tuning" at the range, w/out a vise, though I like the idea of showing up with the wood splitter on my shoulder.

The sight picture, FO aside, is *exactly* what I was looking for. Man, what a difference, and I'm glad I didn't get the Heine in the "race cut", as there's plenty of light on the sides of the post, for my taste.

This inspired me so much, I followed the $.25 trigger job instructions on the web, and polished the trigger bar, and parts. Lord knows, I'm no gunsmith, but damned if Glocks aren't reasonably easy to work on. Trigger feels a tad smoother.

It will be interesting to see what happens to my groups with this gun. Previously, it was shooting about 2 1/2" - 3", at 25 yards with 115gr CCI Blazer, which it seems to like better than any other factory stuff I've tried...Is this about right, with the stock barrel? I'd hoped for a tad better....

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  • 4 weeks later...

Instead of a steel punch, you might want to get a piece of brass rod at the hardware store and make yourself a brass punch to drift that rear sight. The steel rod will eventually scratch your sights and possibly even mar the slide. You could buy a pre-made brass punch, but for the price of a pre-made punch you can buy a brass rod about 3 feet long and cut and file it into all kinds of handy home made tools like squib rods, cleaning rods, etc.

Unless your Glock is bent, you should be pretty well on target, and not have to do much drifting if the rear sight is centered on the slide. Elevation depends on buying the correct height front sight for your Glock, unless you plan buy a tall signt and attack it with a file. Off the shelf parts should get you easily into the "A" zone at 25 yards unless there's something else wrong with the gun.

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I have a 35 with Heinie slant pros on it and a 34 with Sevigny sights. I like both, but the Sevigny sights rear notch is wider than the Heinie. Now, I havent decided yet whether I like the Sevigny or Heinie. The Sevigny is a little faster for pick up, but I seem to shoot a little more accurate (more A's and tighter shots are easier) with the Heinie's. Not sure which way I want to go. I'll play with the Sevigny sights a little more before making my decision.

The Sevigny rear notch is .150 I believe and the Heinie is .125.

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I just picked up a Glock 35 that has Heinie sights. I like the rear sight and I just replaced the front with a fiber optic dawson and it gives a great sight picture. Now I am gonna put the same combo on my 24.

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Instead of a steel punch, you might want to get a piece of brass rod at the hardware store and make yourself a brass punch to drift that rear sight.  The steel rod will eventually scratch your sights and possibly even mar the slide. 

[....]

Unless your Glock is bent, you should be pretty well on target, and not have to do much drifting if the rear sight is centered on the slide [...]

That's what I found -- I centered teh rear sight as well as I could, and it's really damn close. Maybe 3" to the left at 25 yards, and an inch or two high (don't care) with 115's. I tried tapping it to correct this, but realized without a special tool, I'm not going to get the precision needed, and t'hell with it, though it still bugs me.

I must say -- I really, *really* like this sight picture, and don't find the FO front overwhelming, as, say, I did when I painted my Kimber with flourescent orange model airplane paint.

But good point on the brass rod - I need one anyway for squib loads (knock on wood).

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