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Stock 2/3 Extreme FP Block Question


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Wolff gun springs can be bought from many sources, or Wolff directly.   I get them when ordering other items like hammer spring or spare parts. They are a wear item, so I stock spares. And I get crazy tuning them for specific uses.  for instance a 6# cut to allow 95gr 9mm steel challenge rounds to cycle.

2 hours ago, goshimu said:

Where do you guys get the recoil spring under 10#

 

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6 hours ago, johnbu said:

Wolff gun springs can be bought from many sources, or Wolff directly.   I get them when ordering other items like hammer spring or spare parts. They are a wear item, so I stock spares. And I get crazy tuning them for specific uses.  for instance a 6# cut to allow 95gr 9mm steel challenge rounds to cycle.

 

Thank you John

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On 10/16/2016 at 9:42 AM, SCTaylor said:

 


My pull gauge will be here this week, I'll get some numbers with light polishing, E.G. light fp spring and 13lb PD hammer spring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Mainly stock internals with only Xtreme FP changed, verruh mild polish of sear cage sides, hammer sides, hammer strut,  hammer & sear cage holes along with PD13 mainspring and EG "Light" FP Spring yielded a smooth pull with teeny bit of stack at the end of:

6lb 11oz DA and 3lb 14oz SA.

 

For my money and skill level spending the ~$200 for the 1 piece sear, Titan hammer, and BOLO is not warranted. I can load up about 1,800 rounds for practice for the same price while increasing my skill level exponentially. 

Edited by SCTaylor
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Mainly stock internals with only Xtreme FP changed, verruh mild polish of sear cage sides, hammer sides, hammer strut,  hammer & sear cage holes along with PD13 mainspring and EG "Light" FP Spring yielded a smooth pull with teeny bit of stack at the end of:

6lb 11oz DA and 3lb 14oz SA.

 

For my money and skill level spending the ~$200 for the 1 piece sear, Titan hammer, and BOLO is not warranted. I can load up about 1,800 rounds for practice for the same price while increasing my skill level exponentially. 



That's why you just get the bolo. Like I did :) and reap 90% of the benefits. At a 4th~ the cost
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1 hour ago, SCTaylor said:

Mainly stock internals with only Xtreme FP changed, verruh mild polish of sear cage sides, hammer sides, hammer strut,  hammer & sear cage holes along with PD13 mainspring and EG "Light" FP Spring yielded a smooth pull with teeny bit of stack at the end of:

6lb 11oz DA and 3lb 14oz SA.

 

For my money and skill level spending the ~$200 for the 1 piece sear, Titan hammer, and BOLO is not warranted. I can load up about 1,800 rounds for practice for the same price while increasing my skill level exponentially. 

Nice.

 

If you want to drop it closer 6# 0oz,  add the PD trigger spring and sear spring.

Without the other expensive bits, I would recommend a PD 14 to ensure reliability of ignition.  I like to go too light, and get stronger springs until it's 100%, then use the next higher rate spring.  It's a few Oz of insurance against a high primer or too large tight diameter case etc.  My gun is 100% with a PD12, but I run the 13 and that's with all the other goodies. A better polish (especially the plunger assembly), and those other springs with the pd14 will almost certainly be still lower than your current trigger pull and will be more robust.  just my opinion...

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After having issues with ignition on my own gun, I would do exactly what johnbu said. I run a 14lbs PD hammer spring for now. It is different if you reload your own, but for a gun that is fed factory ammo, having a little safety net there to ignite different primers is ideal. My gun is 2lbs 5oz SA and 5lbs 5oz DA. Which is plenty light for a ham fisted brute such as myself

 

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4 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

After having issues with ignition on my own gun, I would do exactly what johnbu said. I run a 14lbs PD hammer spring for now. It is different if you reload your own, but for a gun that is fed factory ammo, having a little safety net there to ignite different primers is ideal. My gun is 2lbs 5oz SA and 5lbs 5oz DA. Which is plenty light for a ham fisted brute such as myself

 

Are you running the factory hammer or the titan?  

 

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Titan

I feel the issues are partly due to the fact that the chamber is tight. Because the cartridge isn't properly seated, the firing pin strikes and the cartridge moves forward slightly. This accounts for my light strike issues. I am having the chamber reamed by Bevin Grams as we speak and that should take care of any remaining issues. After I get It back I'm confident I'll be light strike free. Also I just got a reloading press so I'll be able to seat primers and use softer primers soon.

Edited by ryridesmotox
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What  FP return spring are you using?

How complete is your polish? Holes  pins, rub points? 

I had to go to 14# wolff with a severely cut xtreme light FP return spring to pop SB primers. They are  finicky and need perfect load and must pass plunk to be used with very light springs.

Try going over the gun again polishing and increase hammer spring weight. Offset with reduced power trigger return and sear springs. Remeasure primer depths vetify each round will plunk (and verify chamber is in spec). That should allow SB to run.

 

If not, Patriot is rumored to have a tanfo firing pin in the works that might help

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

By the way, many of my issues revolver around trying to get the henning pin to work. For whatever reason, my gun doesn't like the gen5 henning. Which is unfortunate because it's a nice piece of equipment.

I'm hoping to see a trend in the coming months where those of us building new guns don't bother to install an aftermarket pin from him or EGD... Since the Henning doesn't have enough mass and the EGD one is nearly identical to the one your gun comes with.

I'm going to try out a factory pin and hammer along with a bolo and 1-pc sear, polish, and an assortment of PD springs. It will be interesting to see what I wind up with from my "50% baller" trigger job.

If the pull weights are... kinda nice, single action is... kinda short... but trigger very very smooth then I will be happy! I want something I can shoot well. After that I'm gonna stop tinkering and go get better.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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10 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

Titan

I feel the issues are partly due to the fact that the chamber is tight. Because the cartridge isn't properly seated, the firing pin strikes and the cartridge moves forward slightly. This accounts for my light strike issues. I am having the chamber reamed by Bevin Grams as we speak and that should take care of any remaining issues. After I get It back I'm confident I'll be light strike free. Also I just got a reloading press so I'll be able to seat primers and use softer primers soon.

I just recently saw the posts about chamber being out of spec.  I have been getting light strikes that I cannot attribute to my setup.

seems like I will be having my chamber reamed as well.

Thanks!

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3 hours ago, johnbu said:

What  FP return spring are you using?

How complete is your polish? Holes  pins, rub points? 

I had to go to 14# wolff with a severely cut xtreme light FP return spring to pop SB primers. They are  finicky and need perfect load and must pass plunk to be used with very light springs.

Try going over the gun again polishing and increase hammer spring weight. Offset with reduced power trigger return and sear springs. Remeasure primer depths vetify each round will plunk (and verify chamber is in spec). That should allow SB to run.

 

If not, Patriot is rumored to have a tanfo firing pin in the works that might help

 

 

 

stock firing pin ( polished) My polished job is decent. Im not really worried about using SBs right now, I have a lot of fed ( should last me till mid 2018. I had some leftover sbs for my 2011.  

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Have you already fitted the BOLO with a factory hammer? If you plan on going to a Titan later, you will need a new bolo. Usually, the BOLO requires more fitting with the standard hammer. So if you later go to the Titan, you will have extra single action take up. I did with line anyways. 

2 hours ago, billthemarine2862 said:

I did switch back to my factory FP from a gen5.  I have some PD hammer springs coming.  I am going to try those with my factory hammer and a BOLO.  After that I will decide if I need to have it reamed.  

 

Edited by ryridesmotox
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John, have you tried the patriot defense hammer springs? I cut a Wolff spring and it still wasn't short enough, with the Henning Gen5. I went with the PD spring and it helped a lot, still had a considerable amount of light strikes. Then went back to the stock pin, PD spring combo and it was pretty much 100% with my 14lbs spring.

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2 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

Have you already fitted the BOLO with a factory hammer? If you plan on going to a Titan later, you will need a new bolo. Usually, the BOLO requires more fitting with the standard hammer. So if you later go to the Titan, you will have extra single action take up. I did with line anyways. 

 

I figured I will need a new BOLO with the Titan, I think I am going to try the BOLO with factory hammer first, if I still get light strikes I will get the barrel reamed.  If I get the Titan down the road I will get a new BOLO as well.

When fitting the BOLO to the factory hammer are there any specific instructions that differ from the provided instructions?

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4 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

John, have you tried the patriot defense hammer springs? I cut a Wolff spring and it still wasn't short enough, with the Henning Gen5. I went with the PD spring and it helped a lot, still had a considerable amount of light strikes. Then went back to the stock pin, PD spring combo and it was pretty much 100% with my 14lbs spring.

Yes, i am running PD hammer / FP springs. The nice thing is no cutting an no worry about stuck firing pin after hammer down.

I'm hoping the rumor mill is accurate about PD firing pin.  As i have few federals and many SB and wolf primers.

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3 hours ago, ryridesmotox said:

Just the normal instructions. But I would honestly wait to get the Titan. The BOLO isn't going to help with light strikes.

I know it won't help with light strikes. I just want the other benefits.  This way I can have a nice reset when I light strike....

In all seriousness I am going to try my current configuration with the PD springs first.  Evaluate if I need to have the chamber reamed then decide what to do next.  I only want to add/change one thing at a time at this point so I can know what is working and what isnt.

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