Stock 3. 2 piece sear question

[billthemarine2862]

I finished polishing my sear and sear cage for my stock 3.  I am trying to put it all back together and there is a tiny spring on the outside of the right side of the sear. It is on the long leg.  It is preventing me from seating the sear in the cage. Does anybody know how this part should sit in the sear cage/how to get the sear all the way back in the cage?

Thanks,

Bill

 

I have watched the video numerous times and I took pictures of the assembly. I couldn't see the spring until I hade the sear out of the cage.

Edited September 29, 2016 by billthemarine2862

[haiedras]

Honestly? Get rid of the two piece sear and get a one piece sear. You pretty much ran into the biggest reason why that's the first item replaced.

[billthemarine2862]

Cool, when I need a list of reasons why I should buy a new part I  know who to ask.

I will buy a one piece sear when I have money in my budget to do so.

In the mean time I was asking for help with a 2 piece sear.

If you don't know the answer is it necessary to provide flippant remarks instead?

Thanks for your informative response...

Bill

[ElMateo487]

Cool, when I need a list of reasons why I should buy a new part I  know who to ask.

I will buy a one piece sear when I have money in my budget to do so.

In the mean time I was asking for help with a 2 piece sear.

If you don't know the answer is it necessary to provide flippant remarks instead?

Thanks for your informative response...

Bill

What the.... his response was very normal. And it was just added advice to your question.

[billthemarine2862]

Fellas,

The way it read to me seemed very sarcastic.  I know a one piece is the way to go.  I have a family and cannot buy every part for my gun right away.  I was looking for help and I got frustrated with the response.  

I apologize 

Bill

[ElMateo487]

Fellas,

The way it read to me seemed very sarcastic.  I know a one piece is the way to go.  I have a family and cannot buy every part for my gun right away.  I was looking for help and I got frustrated with the response.  

I apologize 

Bill

I don't know how to assemble a 2 piece sear. And most people on here have a 1 piece. If no one helps you put your 2 piece together you can have my stock 1 piece if you want it!

[haiedras]

Apologies if the response came across as sarcastic. Definitely not barracks sarcastic. I found that it was easier for me to just get a $40 part instead of struggle with the two piece sear everytime I took the gun apart. I really have no idea why tanfo even has a two piece sear to begin with.

[Aggie]

That leg on the spring should tuck back into crevice the spring sits in.  Not sure how to explain it any better.

[johnbu]

You probably have the inner spring upside down.  I've only done the 2 piece dance once (PITA!!),but from memory, the two halves need to mate up flush with the spring in between. IIRC, assembling the parts on a punch helped.  once the sear is together, insert a sacrificial pin and quickly assemble into the cage and push in the real pin quick.  but I am 'fuzzy' on it, so keep that in mind.

 

Good luck and just calmly keep after it. You will get it!

 

 

[DOODS]

Use a slave pin

[billthemarine2862]

Thanks Guys!

I have been using the Qtip slave pin trick.  I know I have the entire thing together the correct way (except for that nasty sear lever)  I even did a test fit without that sear lever in place.  

I think Aggie gave me what I need to get this thing together.  I won't know until tomorrow most likely.  My wife will kill me if I touch that thing again after the last two days.

I will be buying a new sear soon but, after the Gun, 6 extended base pads, springs, FP, FO sight, EGD grips, holster, cgw trigger pin.  I had to stop buying parts for a bit.

I appreciate the offer of the stock one piece, I am pretty sure I can get this now.

It has become a matter of personal pride at this point.

Haiedres, I want to Apologize one more time.  I was a dick and I know it.

I appreciate all the help that came in.  I will post an update once I get it together later.

[johnbu]

Don't worry, we're all familiar with small part assembly frustration!

[ryridesmotox]

$35 for the sear... I dislike frustrating parts like 2 piece sears and such. I even went so far as to replace the factory trigger roll pin that secures the trigger to the frame. Now I can put the gun together with only one set of hands... Anything to make it easier on myself.

http://patriotdefense.com/product/tanfoglio-xtreme-sear/

[haiedras]

Thanks Guys!

I have been using the Qtip slave pin trick.  I know I have the entire thing together the correct way (except for that nasty sear lever)  I even did a test fit without that sear lever in place.  

I think Aggie gave me what I need to get this thing together.  I won't know until tomorrow most likely.  My wife will kill me if I touch that thing again after the last two days.

I will be buying a new sear soon but, after the Gun, 6 extended base pads, springs, FP, FO sight, EGD grips, holster, cgw trigger pin.  I had to stop buying parts for a bit.

I appreciate the offer of the stock one piece, I am pretty sure I can get this now.

It has become a matter of personal pride at this point.

Haiedres, I want to Apologize one more time.  I was a dick and I know it.

I appreciate all the help that came in.  I will post an update once I get it together later.

No worries Bill, I always keep my flak and kevlar on when exploring the interwebs.

[billthemarine2862]

19 hours ago, Aggie said:

Hey Fellas,

Sear lever went in place exactly as Aggie described it.  

For anyone else running into this problem the long leg of the sear lever spring will end up pointed towards the long arm on the sear.

I slid the sear pin into the hole to keep the spring from collapsing in on itself and losing its circular shape.  A pair of needle nose pliers was used to position the leg of the spring in the nook where it belongs.

Aggie recommended driving the sear  pin in from the right side.  I did that as well and after one "dry run" (I popped the spring out) I was able to put the entire assembly together.

Now it will not come out until I get a 1 piece sear in a few weeks.

Thanks!

[billthemarine2862]

Hey Fellas,

Sear lever went in place exactly as Aggie described it.  

For anyone else running into this problem the long leg of the sear lever spring will end up pointed towards the long arm on the sear.

I slid the sear pin into the hole to keep the spring from collapsing in on itself and losing its circular shape.  A pair of needle nose pliers was used to position the leg of the spring in the nook where it belongs.

Aggie recommended driving the sear  pin in from the right side.  I did that as well and after one "dry run" (I popped the spring out) I was able to put the entire assembly together.

Now it will not come out until I get a 1 piece sear in a few weeks.

Thanks!

[billthemarine2862]

One last thing.

Only an Aggie would understand how to fix something as screwed up as that 2 piece sear

 

[Aggie]

Almost recommended some duct tape lol.


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[JB38Super]

The theory of the two piece sear came from the need to shorten the hook set and resulting shorter sear travel/trigger throw.  It enables the FPB to have a greater range of travel since the sear and FPB actuating lever are now independent.

In order to get the short, light SA trigger pulls that were being desired, the hook set on the hammer are now less than .020.  If you will notice, the leg on the FPB lifting arm is almost equal in length to the sear.  So they move about the same amount.  The FPB needs to have a greater travel than the sear.  

And so, we have the two piece sear.

Once you figure them out and how to assemble, they are just as quick and easy as the one piece

Jim

Shooter Ready

[wav3rhythm]

My gunsmith used a two piece sear on my two Stock II's and both have exceptional triggers. There is something to be said for a smith that really understands how the gun works versus changes springs and dremels everything.


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[billthemarine2862]

23 hours ago, JB38Super said:

The theory of the two piece sear came from the need to shorten the hook set and resulting shorter sear travel/trigger throw.  It enables the FPB to have a greater range of travel since the sear and FPB actuating lever are now independent.

In order to get the short, light SA trigger pulls that were being desired, the hook set on the hammer are now less than .020.  If you will notice, the leg on the FPB lifting arm is almost equal in length to the sear.  So they move about the same amount.  The FPB needs to have a greater travel than the sear.  

And so, we have the two piece sear.

Once you figure them out and how to assemble, they are just as quick and easy as the one piece

Jim

Shooter Ready

 

22 hours ago, wav3rhythm said:

My gunsmith used a two piece sear on my two Stock II's and both have exceptional triggers. There is something to be said for a smith that really understands how the gun works versus changes springs and dremels everything.


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I agree fellas.  Once I got it back together I found that the light polish job I did to the sear along with the PD sear spring made a huge difference in the SA pull.  Now that I can assemble the sear with no issue and obtained the desired improvements I am in no rush to change to a 1 piece sear.  Eventually I will do hammer, sear, BOLO. but right now I am  VERY Happy with the trigger.  The reset is very nice now, certainly longer than the reset on my TS (not by too much though) but, it is just fine for me.  It isn't like I am going to Nationals any time soon...

iAgain, thanks to all for the help and advice.

it is now time to work on technique.

[Prov1x]

I use 2 piece sears in my guns and I don't see a need to replace them. You don't "need" the one piece sear, titan hammer, extreme delta hammer, PD Bolo, etc....That's not the popular thing to say on this forum but it's the truth. I've had my guns since 2012-ish and I have only replaced the hammer spring, guide rod, front sight, plunger spring, firing pin & firing pin spring and recoil spring, along with the heavy polishing etc. But I only use federal primers in my productions guns but that is my choice, so depending on primer selection, you may need a heavier hammer spring but that's about it. 

Now let the flaming begin...

 

[ryridesmotox]

3 hours ago, Prov1x said:

I use 2 piece sears in my guns and I don't see a need to replace them. You don't "need" the one piece sear, titan hammer, extreme delta hammer, PD Bolo, etc....That's not the popular thing to say on this forum but it's the truth. I've had my guns since 2012-ish and I have only replaced the hammer spring, guide rod, front sight, plunger spring, firing pin & firing pin spring and recoil spring, along with the heavy polishing etc. But I only use federal primers in my productions guns but that is my choice, so depending on primer selection, you may need a heavier hammer spring but that's about it. 

Now let the flaming begin...

 

For sure. But if someone wants to be all racy... Those are the things that need to be done.

From factory... My stock 2 pulled DA 9lbs 13oz average over 5 pulls on my lyman... SA was 4lbs even average.

After working the trigger it goes to DA of 5lbs 5oz and SA of 2lbs 5oz. All in the same gauge, all 5 pull average.

It's all personal preferences really. I have no problem shooting a heavier pull. My daily carry has a pull in DAO of around 8lbs... And it's a loooooooooong pull. Getting proficient in the operation of your firearm is much more important than pull weight of the trigger.

[johnbu]

Actually, I AGREE with all that.  "Needs" vs "wants".   about the only true 100% NEED, is a very thorough polishing.  The trigger is abysmal as delivered and while still heavy, polishing makes it decent and will drop the da force 2-4#.  mine were over 12# initially.

Of course, we all want to go 6# or less da and (imho) going there with just light springs isn't generally "match reliable". Adding all the other doodads you listed increase reliability with even light triggers.

Sadly, I don't have a box fresh gun to experiment on. It would be interesting to see just how nice a tanfo can be with minimum parts, just a full set of PD springs, a jar of polishing compound and a lot of elbow grease. I'm goofy, but that sounds like a fun way to spend time!

 

7 hours ago, Prov1x said:

I use 2 piece sears in my guns and I don't see a need to replace them. You don't "need" the one piece sear, titan hammer, extreme delta hammer, PD Bolo, etc....That's not the popular thing to say on this forum but it's the truth. I've had my guns since 2012-ish and I have only replaced the hammer spring, guide rod, front sight, plunger spring, firing pin & firing pin spring and recoil spring, along with the heavy polishing etc. But I only use federal primers in my productions guns but that is my choice, so depending on primer selection, you may need a heavier hammer spring but that's about it. 

Now let the flaming begin...

 

 

[ryridesmotox]

6 minutes ago, johnbu said:

Actually, I AGREE with all that.  "Needs" vs "wants".   about the only true 100% NEED, is a very thorough polishing.  The trigger is abysmal as delivered and while still heavy, polishing makes it decent and will drop the da force 2-4#.  mine were over 12# initially.

Of course, we all want to go 6# or less da and (imho) going there with just light springs isn't generally "match reliable". Adding all the other doodads you listed increase reliability with even light triggers.

Sadly, I don't have a box fresh gun to experiment on. It would be interesting to see just how nice a tanfo can be with minimum parts, just a full set of PD springs, a jar of polishing compound and a lot of elbow grease. I'm goofy, but that sounds like a fun way to spend time!

 

 

That's what I have been doing with my time. I just got a totally OEM Stock2. Trigger pull in DA was 9lbs 13oz average and 4 in single action. Not too bad. Just polishing dropped it to 7lbs DA and didn't effect SA. I have stuff to order from PD to continue. But my other gun is 5lbs 5oz in DA and 2lbs 5oz in SA with the 14lbs PD hammer spring. Honestly, onelce I send my barrel to be reamed out, it should light primers better. So we'll see, might end up even lower.