Weber Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 My 1050 stopped indexing and the swage rod broke. I replaced the swage rod but it is still not indexing. I assume the index pawl is bent, broke, or wore. Is there anyway to tell without just replacing it? Is the heavy duty pawl from Fast and Friendly worth the upgrade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 You can watch the back side to see if the index pawl is broke and not catching the shell plate while slowly cycling the machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Pals last a long time and the price is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Pawls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Loosen the 4 cap screws on the shellplate lock ring, and spin the lock ring up. Lift the shellplate up. (no need to remove the toolhead, just guide the plate over the toolhead pins). Now you can see the top of the index lever and pawl. Visually inspect the pawl for damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 2 hours ago, dillon said: Loosen the 4 cap screws on the shellplate lock ring, and spin the lock ring up. Lift the shellplate up. (no need to remove the toolhead, just guide the plate over the toolhead pins). Now you can see the top of the index lever and pawl. Visually inspect the pawl for damage. I took it apart to check things and everything looked good, I put it back together and its indexing again. I could see the pawl not click into the next indexing hole and just ride back and forth under the shell plate. Not sure why but it's working again. There must be another problem because after replacing the Swage rod and getting it to index, about 300 rounds into my batch the Swage rod broke again. I didn't have any jams or hiccups during the 300 rounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Nothing a 30 dollar bill won't fix.Ask me how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longhill Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Where can I ask where is the swage rod breaking? Did you feel it strain before it broke? or is this motorized? Edited August 24, 2016 by Longhill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 5 hours ago, oteroman said: Nothing a 30 dollar bill won't fix. Ask me how I know. Tell me more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 4 hours ago, Longhill said: Where can I ask where is the swage rod breaking? Did you feel it strain before it broke? or is this motorized? I didn't even know it broke until I was checking cases with a Swage gauge and found some that failed, looked and could see the rod was cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted August 24, 2016 Author Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) Here are a few pictures. It breaks where the threaded part ends. Edited August 24, 2016 by Weber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 What caliber are you loading? Have you had any instances where the spent primer was left in the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted August 25, 2016 Share Posted August 25, 2016 Most likely, this will illustrate why they are breaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonofVa Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 (edited) 20 hours ago, Brassaholic13 said: Most likely, this will illustrate why they are breaking. On my 1050, the "Swag connecting rod" #13417 has the zerk fitting facing forward. I am not sure it makes any difference, but that is the way mine is, and it is the way it is shown in the book. So it appears that this one is on backwards. Edited August 26, 2016 by RonofVa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 On 8/26/2016 at 1:35 PM, RonofVa said: On my 1050, the "Swag connecting rod" #13417 has the zerk fitting facing forward. I am not sure it makes any difference, but that is the way mine is, and it is the way it is shown in the book. So it appears that this one is on backwards. I checked with the guys on the production line regarding whether or not it matters which way the zerk fitting is pointing and the answer was that the part is symmetrical and should function the same regardless of the direction of the zerk. They did seem to feel that it should face forward just for ease of access. As to the flexing of the rod and consequent breakage the consensus among those I queried was that the rod may be adjusted too high or that the shell plate was not indexing properly and may be interfering with the rods upward travel. It was suggested that you mark the bottom of a case with a sharpie and look for drag marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams30gts Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Sorry I really have no idea why the swage rod is breaking... But...The F&F heavy duty pawl is a great buy if you are running a autodrive. If running the press manually, it shouldn't be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 On 8/24/2016 at 10:40 AM, dillon said: What caliber are you loading? Have you had any instances where the spent primer was left in the case? This was on 223, no ringers. I have replaced it with a non-dillon rod and have not had any issues since. The press is indexing properly but I seem to need to have the shell plate more loose than I expect or it will not index. After I finish this next batch of brass I plan to break it down and clean and lube everything while inspecting it, but as of now everything seems to be working properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Check the bushing that is inserted up into the underside of the frame which guides the swage rod. The top of this bushing should not protrude above the surface of the frame where the shellplate rotates. You must remove the shellplate to inspect for this. If too high, use a large-diameter brass punch and a light hammer tap to move it down to flush. This bushing is held in by green Locatite, so if you hit it too hard and knock it out, just clean the bushing and hole with solvent, apply more green Loctite and tap it back into position using a brass punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Is there a way to adjust the index? What it appears to be doing is not indexing enough to catch the shell plate when the shell plate is tightened down correctly, if I keep the shell plate loose it will index, but seems to be off a bit and is damaging case mouths in the swaging station as the plate is not fully indexed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 yes you can adjust it. pull the brass button from the 11 o clock position, look behind/under it on the press frame, there is a slot machined there. inside is a set screw that adjusts shell plate travel. back it off a few turns then work it back in until the shell plate indexes properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlier Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 (edited) 4 hours ago, lefty o said: yes you can adjust it. pull the brass button from the 11 o clock position, look behind/under it on the press frame, there is a slot machined there. inside is a set screw that adjusts shell plate travel. back it off a few turns then work it back in until the shell plate indexes properly. That's to adjust how far the shell plate advances. I believe his problem is that the plate isn't getting grabbed by the pawl before the index starts. So using that screw to adjust how far the shell plate advances during indexing won't help. Edit: Actually, after reading the OP's post above yours, that little screw is exactly what he needs to adjust. Edited September 16, 2016 by Phlier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 Adjusting that only advances the shell plate past the correct spot, even then it still doesn't grab the shell plate to index. If if I back the shell plate retaining nut off to where it is too loose and sloppy, it will catch and advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted September 16, 2016 Author Share Posted September 16, 2016 (edited) Here is a picture. Edited September 16, 2016 by Weber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 that pawl is what actually moves the shell plate, the set screw limits how far or short it can move the plate, beyond that you have the spring loaded check ball, and thats pretty much everything that indexes the shell plates. so long as the shell plate is not either too tight or too lose, your problem lies in one of those 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weber Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Found an old thread on here about multiple people having the same problem with similiar pictures. I'm going to try their fix for it and see if it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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