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Slide will not fully close when cycling


LilTMoney

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I am running an sti matchmaster and have recently ran into some issues with the slide fully closing. Does not happen alot but once is to many. I have several different springs that i run so i dont think that is issue. It seems to be the case not fully entering. Sometimes so tight that the slide has to be pryed back. I will normally eject the shell and keep running. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

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Thanks bret. I shot 200 rounds yesterday and probably had 5 that got totally jammed and would go any further. I had about 10 that i had to push on the back of the slide just a little to get fully in. The other 185 ran good.

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Hi- power, The reason for the variance is i was having some feeding issues so it was recommended to go with 1.170 to get the bullet a little closer to the feed ramp.i would normally run a 1.135. So i started running that with not many issues. Plus tuned and checked mags. I kept all the ones seperate that i had issues with. I will check length and crimp.

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Olstyn, not a stupid question at all. Honestly no they are not all checked all the time. I usually try and spot check as i go. I load and shoot between 500 and 1000 rounds per week. Just recently started having this problem with this particular gun.

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LilTMoney, listen to Sarge.

You can't just load ammo to whatever length and assume it will work. YOU need to verify the max OAL for your pistol with EVERY make and model of bullet you use before loading. TO do so:

Remove your barrel from the pistol.
Load a dummy round (no primer, no powder) to the maximum OAL for your magazine.
Does the bullet slide all the way in and spin freely with no drag?
If YES, that's your max OAL.
If NO, start seating a little deeper, a little deeper, checking the cartridge in the chamber each time to see if it spins freely.
When YES, that's your max OAL, and you should load maybe .010 - .015 shorter than that to account for inherent variation in your loading process.

Make sure it spins freely. There will be a stretch as you shorten where it will start to spin, but it drags a little. You're looking for it to spin freely.
Run the test with every new bullet. Not only will different profiles load differently, but the same profiles from different manufacturers will load differently.

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Hi-power. The 1.135 and 1.170 both run in the sti. Also the problem is not all the time. Its just hit and miss. I have never had this problem in any gun but this sti 2011. The only reason i had tried 1.170 is that a custom gun guy recommended it because of some feed issues. I usually run 1.135 and they run great in glocks, m&p, and kimbers that I have.

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IDescibe, Thanks for that! Its not that i discarded what sarge was saying, 1.135 is factory for alot of rounds so i was trying to figure out why he automatically thought that was to long. I totally understand what you are saying and that is exactly what i am trying to accomplish. Something that runs well, no hiccups.

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IDescibe, Thanks for that! Its not that i discarded what sarge was saying, 1.135 is factory for alot of rounds so i was trying to figure out why he automatically thought that was to long. I totally understand what you are saying and that is exactly what i am trying to accomplish. Something that runs well, no hiccups.

He thought it was too long before you ever listed lengths. And just because 1.135 is a standard length doesn't mean that 1.135 can't be too long in some scenarios.

Edited by Garmil
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What brass? I had some 38 super brass that wouldn't run...crimp was perfect, OAL was perfect, try to load in the gun and you had a death jam...turns out the the extraction groove on that brand of brass, and only that brass, was .004 not as deep as all others. The extractor was keeping the case from sliding fully up onto the breach face.

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IDescibe, Thanks for that! Its not that i discarded what sarge was saying, 1.135 is factory for alot of rounds so i was trying to figure out why he automatically thought that was to long. I totally understand what you are saying and that is exactly what i am trying to accomplish. Something that runs well, no hiccups.

Easiest way to figure it out us to drop check the ammo you are currently having problems with. Remove barrel and drop a round in. It should bottom out with a nice plop sound. It should spin with NO resistence. Then it should fall out with just gravity to help.

I agree that crump might have gotten out of adjustment but it seems 99% of the time length is the issue. Crimp should indeed be in the mid to upper .37's.

All guns are different and 1.135 may indeed be too long for some guns depending on bullet. Some round nose bullets I have used had to be loaded down to under 1.10 when most ran at 1.15 easily.

If ammo passes all tests the we can tackle the gun.:)

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Thanks so much sarge. I am in the process of drop testing ammo as we speak. This is my first STI and first race gun. I have been reloading and shooting for a long time and i am finding out this is alot different then just the normal production guns. I will be drop testing all ammo and checking crimp specs as well. Once again thanks alot for your time and input, i am learning alot.

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Thanks so much sarge. I am in the process of drop testing ammo as we speak. This is my first STI and first race gun. I have been reloading and shooting for a long time and i am finding out this is alot different then just the normal production guns. I will be drop testing all ammo and checking crimp specs as well. Once again thanks alot for your time and input, i am learning alot.

Indeed! I'm a 2011 Open shooter now and I say all the time how much I miss my Glock 34 I started with! Lol. Stick with it. You'll figure it out.:)
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