B_RAD Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruleyoutoo1911 Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 I like Win, Fed, Speer, PMC, RP for match loads. All my Winchester is mostly a little older brass, have heard some QC problems with newer Winchester brass but haven't run into any problems myself. All the foreign stuff goes into my practice or plinking loads, CBC, PPU, Fiocchi, etc. Scrap any AMERC, LY, Ammoload and IMT brass. I'm about to the point of scrapping Tula brass as well, too many case gauge failures and one of those locked up my friends Glock 19 tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kf4zra Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I get the WCC military 9mm brass cheap, my 1050 spits it out fast. Seems great to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7sst Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point. I asked because you said you've never needed to sort brass. I'd say if you were loading shorter OAL, you have more problems with brass! I'm actually surprised you're able to load those FP to 1.150" and not hit the lands in your barrel. I'm not familiar with SNS and don't know how long your barrel will allow for OAL but I haven't had any luck with any 147 gr FP out past 1.125". And when I load them that short, I start having about a 10%-15% failure to case gauge rate. It's mostly with the foreign brass but WIN brass is somewhat picky too. I switched to a RN and pushed the OAL back out to 1.135 and no more problems. I started a thread and from what was said, different brass has different case thicknesses. Seems like PPU and the other foreign stuff gets thicker closer to the rim than others. Anyways, since your loads work for you not much you need to worry about. I'm back to not sorting brass with my longer OAL but it's something I'm aware of if I need to go shorter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7sst Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice.What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point.I asked because you said you've never needed to sort brass. I'd say if you were loading shorter OAL, you have more problems with brass! I'm actually surprised you're able to load those FP to 1.150" and not hit the lands in your barrel. I'm not familiar with SNS and don't know how long your barrel will allow for OAL but I haven't had any luck with any 147 gr FP out past 1.125". And when I load them that short, I start having about a 10%-15% failure to case gauge rate. It's mostly with the foreign brass but WIN brass is somewhat picky too. I switched to a RN and pushed the OAL back out to 1.135 and no more problems. I started a thread and from what was said, different brass has different case thicknesses. Seems like PPU and the other foreign stuff gets thicker closer to the rim than others. Anyways, since your loads work for you not much you need to worry about. I'm back to not sorting brass with my longer OAL but it's something I'm aware of if I need to go shorter. I'm .010" off the lands. If I had an issue, I'd pick a different bullet profile like you did before sorting brass. Edited June 29, 2016 by 7sst Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olstyn Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 (edited) Seems like PPU and the other foreign stuff gets thicker closer to the rim than others. Yeah, I've been setting aside CBC brass for a while because of this. MG 124 JHPs have to be loaded @ 1.075" in order to consistently plunk in my barrel (Walther), so the CBC has been collecting in a box for when I start a case of round nose. The plan is to load it up for use at my next section match. I think I've got enough of it to go single headstamp for the entire load of ammo I bring to the match, which seems like it'll be a good thing; if nothing else, it should theoretically improve consistency at least a little bit, right? Edited June 30, 2016 by olstyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice.What's the details on your loads?I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point.I asked because you said you've never needed to sort brass. I'd say if you were loading shorter OAL, you have more problems with brass! I'm actually surprised you're able to load those FP to 1.150" and not hit the lands in your barrel. I'm not familiar with SNS and don't know how long your barrel will allow for OAL but I haven't had any luck with any 147 gr FP out past 1.125". And when I load them that short, I start having about a 10%-15% failure to case gauge rate. It's mostly with the foreign brass but WIN brass is somewhat picky too. I switched to a RN and pushed the OAL back out to 1.135 and no more problems. I started a thread and from what was said, different brass has different case thicknesses. Seems like PPU and the other foreign stuff gets thicker closer to the rim than others. Anyways, since your loads work for you not much you need to worry about. I'm back to not sorting brass with my longer OAL but it's something I'm aware of if I need to go shorter. I'm .010" off the lands. If I had an issue, I'd pick a different bullet profile like you did before sorting brass. Yup! FP 147's are a thing of the past. Eggleston makes some coated 147 RN and acme makes some 145 RN. I'm still in the process of finding my permanent minor load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchet Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I've never looked at headstamps and never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Single Stack Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Speer and Starline are my preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I've never looked at headstamps and never had a problem. what bullets do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchet Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 I've never looked at headstamps and never had a problem. what bullets do you use? Mostly Xtreme 147 with Universal. Sometimes Precision Delta 147. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 the pd would explain the lack of problems. I am thinking the xtreme bullets are plated... not sure about them from a bunch of testing I've done, I am pretty sure you can use .355 bullets in any 9mm case. the case will not be the cause of problems. .. cracking and blown-out cases not withstanding ... they are scrap metal and should not be reloaded. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybayonet Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 I am shooting M&P's and a P85 ruger. I load what ever I have. The only brass I toss is the stepped brass. They seem to change acuracy and I hear to many bad stories about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point. I am using 147 Zero FMJ @1.150. I will only use brass made in the USA. Almost all foreign brass and the 147 will not pass the case gauge so I gave up on foreign brass and only use brass made in the USA and have not had any jams or case gauge failures. I figured the above out after looking at all the rejects I had accumulated and had to pull the bullets with a kinetic puller. Not fun. When I have some time, I will take a picture of my kinetic puller after the bullets were pulled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchet Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point. I am using 147 Zero FMJ @1.150. I will only use brass made in the USA. Almost all foreign brass and the 147 will not pass the case gauge so I gave up on foreign brass and only use brass made in the USA and have not had any jams or case gauge failures. I figured the above out after looking at all the rejects I had accumulated and had to pull the bullets with a kinetic puller. Not fun. When I have some time, I will take a picture of my kinetic puller after the bullets were pulled. What kind of reloader and dies are you using? I can't imagine how I can load absolutely everything and never have an issue, yet you have so many that won't gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice. What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point. I am using 147 Zero FMJ @1.150. I will only use brass made in the USA. Almost all foreign brass and the 147 will not pass the case gauge so I gave up on foreign brass and only use brass made in the USA and have not had any jams or case gauge failures. I figured the above out after looking at all the rejects I had accumulated and had to pull the bullets with a kinetic puller. Not fun. When I have some time, I will take a picture of my kinetic puller after the bullets were pulled. What kind of reloader and dies are you using? I can't imagine how I can load absolutely everything and never have an issue, yet you have so many that won't gauge. I have a 650 and use Dillon Dies and a Dillon case gauge. Below are the names of the brass that I will no longer use due to failure to case gauge. Also, any brass that is steel or bi metal, NATO marked or NT stamped are not used as I do not want to deal with crimped primers. CBC, Fiocchi, Amerc, LY, Ammoload, IMT, Tula, S&B, GFL, ACP, GECO and Magtec. I am sure there are others. However, this is the list that I have accumulated currently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BFG9000 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 I would've thought it was obvious that the best 9mm brass is clearly Lapua, although it is foreign as it's made in Finland. The empty brass is the same price as cheap factory loaded ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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