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"I open the mouth to .380 for seating and crimp to .378." If those are both outside dimensions, I'd bell the case quite a bit more. As others have mentioned, the crimp and seating in the same die may not be helping either.

Yes

The thumb roll works for me. I start with the thumb pad on the hammer not the thumbnail on the hammer like the guy in the video though.

Get the gun that you are happy with. However, you should be able to work out the trigger and grip issues with some practice.

Looks interesting, available for Tanfo?

What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point.I asked because you said you've never needed to sort brass. I'd say if you were loading shorter OAL, you have more problems with brass! I'm actually surprised you're able to load those FP to 1.150" and not hit the lands in your barrel. I'm not familiar with SNS and don't know how long your barrel will allow for OAL but I haven't had any luck with any 147 gr FP out past 1.125". And when I load them that short, I start having about a 10%-15% failure to case gauge rate. It's mostly with the foreign brass but WIN brass is somewhat picky too. I switched to a RN and pushed the OAL back out to 1.135 and no more problems. I started a thread and from what was said, different brass has different case thicknesses. Seems like PPU and the other foreign stuff gets thicker closer to the rim than others. Anyways, since your loads work for you not much you need to worry about. I'm back to not sorting brass with my longer OAL but it's something I'm aware of if I need to go shorter. I'm .010" off the lands. If I had an issue, I'd pick a different bullet profile like you did before sorting brass.

What's the details on your loads? I'm at 1.155" COL with a 147 Zero JHP and 1.150" with a SNS 147 NLG coated flat point.

Anything brass and boxer primed works fine for minor loads. Even the "dreaded" stepped brass works just fine. There has been zero functional benefit in sorting 9mm brass by headstamp for me so I don't do it any more. Just hit it with a shot of case lube and throw it into the 1050. If a cartridge won't chamber it's likely due to a reloading error or a damaged case. In a purely theoretical sense, I'd take WIN NATO brass as a first choice.

.And I had a positive customer service experience with Henning.

The Henning pin has worked well for me with the light Xtreme springs and federal primers. Haven't tried the EG pin, but I would probably try it if I were shooting IPSC.

It took me a week or two at most. The change in grip angle and the better single action trigger pull were the things that took a bit of practice to get used to.

USPSA grip is more about recoil control and speed as opposed to bullseye type shooting. My goal is a consistent, high, hard grip with both hands that covers as much of the gripping area on the gun as possible.

The gip is much more important than the exact finger placement. You don't need to have your finger pad precisely on the trigger for USPSA.

Any idea what might have caused that?

I had the same issue with multiple bullets dropping. Stretching the spring completely fixed the issue for me. Try stretching it a little bit at a time about 1/4 of the way from the top.

I had the elevation screw on the rear sight of my stock II break last year. No other breakage issues. It was tough to find the right replacement screw and springs.

I haven't seen any difference in performance between plated and coated bullets. I use the coated bullets because they are cheaper.

G34 gen 4 and sights

Their fixed sights are really nice. They have fewer parts to break than the adjustable. If you want to switch loads a lot, or just don't care about the additional money, I'd go with the adjustable.

If you are planning on running the cases through the sizing die again when you load, you should apply lube again. Otherwise you may have issues with stuck cases, especially if you anneal your cases after the initial sizing and cleaning. You can dry tumble after loading using walnut or corncob in your "wet" tumbler to eliminate the lube if you want to. One shot works fine.

The line looks a lot like the mark commonly left by seating dies.

I'm interested to know how the trigger is out of the box.

Looks pretty nice...

Increase flare and decrease crimp a bit

Gen 4, the beavertails prevent slide bite common with earlier generation glocks.