1911/2011 lower lug cutters

[DRichardson]

I'm looking at building a 2011. I'm looking at the Brownells lug cutter but can't find a lot of first hand experience with it. Does it work reasonably well? Are there any other options out there that do not require a mill to use?

[ltdmstr]

The WIlson lug cutter works great and is the best option if you don't have a mill. I'm not aware of any alternatives that produce a quality result.

[vtecpaoche]

The Wilson lug cutter is no longer available. Is the Brownells lug cutter substantially different?

[Flexmoney]

I don't know if there is a difference between the Wilson/Brownells cutter. Same?

When I took the Cylinder and Slide gunsmithing class, that is what we used. I don't recall if it was in a kit back then, but the kit in the video below contains the tools we used.

Worked great.

[scottlep]

Works fine, as long as you understand what you are doing when fitting/cutting the lugs.

[stardust tommy]

do a search on joe chambers (chambers custom) his lug cutters, they are more like an endmill instead of the normal "scraper" lugcutters

they leave a nice finish

[ltdmstr]

The Brownells version looks to be the same design as the Wilson. But from the reviews it seems the cutters are not the same design and not as good quality.

[ltdmstr]

The Chambers tool also looks like the same design as the Wilson, except with out the crank handle.

[CalTeacher]

I used the brownells lug cutter to fit my Bar Sto Barrel on one of my 2011s. It worked great, but just take your time, use plenty of lube, and clear the metal chips away frequently.

[cooper74]

I too used brownell's lug cutter to fit a schuemann in my 2011. The kit comes with 2 sized cutters so you can zero in on what you need. Take your time and it's really simple.

Easy & worked great.... Youtube helps lol. Mosinvirus has a video using it on a 1911 80% build and it's pretty clear and easy to use as a tutorial.

Edited May 12, 2016 by cooper74

[MrPostman]

The Brownells one works great, it won't take it all the way down to the correct depth so the finish it leaves will be smoothed out during the sanding process of profiling the lower lugs. You will need to get the barrel lug file as well so the barrel will go into full lockup which you will need to do first before you use the lowerlug cutter. The barrel lug file has 2 safe sides so it will only deepen the notches and not cut the sides of the lugs. Use a sized and deprimed case for fitting the upper lugs, insert the case into the barrel and then install it into the slide pushing up on the barrel to seat the upper lugs. Hold the assembly up to a light source and look through the firing pin hole to see if the firing pin will center on the primer. If it doesn't an most likely won't then you will need to file the upper lugs until it does.

[cooper74]

To add to Mrpostman's comment... that barrel lug file is awesome from brownells... such a useful file...

Check out some of MosinVirus's videos on youtube and you'll see how often he uses it. He's used it even to modify a 1911 frame from a GI barrel bed to a Para/clark ramped barrel.

[Flexmoney]

How likes...

Candle or sharpie?

[BrianATL]

The Brownells one works great, it won't take it all the way down to the correct depth so the finish it leaves will be smoothed out during the sanding process of profiling the lower lugs. You will need to get the barrel lug file as well so the barrel will go into full lockup which you will need to do first before you use the lowerlug cutter. The barrel lug file has 2 safe sides so it will only deepen the notches and not cut the sides of the lugs. Use a sized and deprimed case for fitting the upper lugs, insert the case into the barrel and then install it into the slide pushing up on the barrel to seat the upper lugs. Hold the assembly up to a light source and look through the firing pin hole to see if the firing pin will center on the primer. If it doesn't an most likely won't then you will need to file the upper lugs until it does.

Is that really the way you are determining the upper lug engagement?

[MrPostman]

It's one way to do it. The other would be to buy the alignment tool when he buys the other tools. I suppose I could have suggested that first but in any event.....

Link to alignment tool.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/alignment-tools/barrel-alignment-tools/38-barrel-alignment-gauge-prod26474.aspx

Edited May 14, 2016 by MrPostman

[Pat Miles]

The Brownells one works great, it won't take it all the way down to the correct depth so the finish it leaves will be smoothed out during the sanding process of profiling the lower lugs. You will need to get the barrel lug file as well so the barrel will go into full lockup which you will need to do first before you use the lowerlug cutter. The barrel lug file has 2 safe sides so it will only deepen the notches and not cut the sides of the lugs. Use a sized and deprimed case for fitting the upper lugs, insert the case into the barrel and then install it into the slide pushing up on the barrel to seat the upper lugs. Hold the assembly up to a light source and look through the firing pin hole to see if the firing pin will center on the primer. If it doesn't an most likely won't then you will need to file the upper lugs until it does.

Is that really the way you are determining the upper lug engagement?

My first concern is getting .0050" - .0055" upper lug engagement. I let the alignment of the bore centerline and the firing pin hole fall where it may. The majority of the time the bore/firing pin alignment is real close.

Schuemann calls for .045" or greater. The barrels I have fitted max out at around .043".

[BrianATL]

The Brownells one works great, it won't take it all the way down to the correct depth so the finish it leaves will be smoothed out during the sanding process of profiling the lower lugs. You will need to get the barrel lug file as well so the barrel will go into full lockup which you will need to do first before you use the lowerlug cutter. The barrel lug file has 2 safe sides so it will only deepen the notches and not cut the sides of the lugs. Use a sized and deprimed case for fitting the upper lugs, insert the case into the barrel and then install it into the slide pushing up on the barrel to seat the upper lugs. Hold the assembly up to a light source and look through the firing pin hole to see if the firing pin will center on the primer. If it doesn't an most likely won't then you will need to file the upper lugs until it does.

Is that really the way you are determining the upper lug engagement?

My first concern is getting .0050" - .0055" upper lug engagement. I let the alignment of the bore centerline and the firing pin hole fall where it may. The majority of the time the bore/firing pin alignment is real close.

Schuemann calls for .045" or greater. The barrels I have fitted max out at around .043".

This I would also think proper upper lug engagement is a more critical element than a centered firing pin alignment

[ltdmstr]

Proper barrel lockup is far more important than a centered firing pin. I'd say maybe one in ten barrels I fit end up with the firing pin direct center, typically with a #3 (.278) link. Pretty much all the rest are slightly off due to using a #4 (.283) link. I think I've used a #5 (.288) link once.

[wanttolearn]

I don't have a special tool for this....so what i do is draw a line along the length of the top of the barrel so i have a consistant index point. I measure the depth of the barrel from the top of the slide when the slide/barrel is in battery...and then again when disengaged and the slide moved back 1/4 inch. The difference is the upper lug engagement. Being paranoid I also confirm with an empty deprimed shell case just to make sure i haven't buggered anything up.

I've been cutting the lower lugs with a file and then sanding but i think i'll transition to a formal lug cutter

what do you use to turn the Chambers cutter?

[MrPostman]

You can get a tire depth micrometer to check the depth of the upper lugs when filing them, at least that is what I use to double check everything after the deprimed brass method.

If you are going to cut a chamber then you need the appropriate chambering reamer. Just get a finishing reamer if you are only going to cut a few chambers. Pacific tool and gauge sells all the reamers you would need to do the job, and they sell direct but just be prepared to wait longer on it as opposed to buying the same tool from a middle man.

In response to the other posts, I like to go deeper than .043". I will measure the lugs on the slide and barrel and then use the file to cut them to the same depth. The deeper you can go the better in my opinion, so .055 or better which coincidentally lines up the firing pin hole with the primer, not to mention that I get full lockup in all 4 spots: Barrel Hood, upper lugs, lower lugs and where the barrel rides inside the slide at the muzzle.

Plus, I don't have to explain to the customer why his primer strikes are off center.

I use the Jerry Kuhnhausen colt 1911 book as a guide. Here is a link to his 1911 bible.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-FmHQLYBbIWWFFXdmNsWDlPMHc/edit

[Pat Miles]

In response to the other posts, I like to go deeper than .043".

The only way you will go deeper than .043" on some of Scheumann's barrels is to turn down the OD of the barrel ahead of the upper lug area which I'm not going to do when the fitting instruction tell to shoot for .045".

[ltdmstr]

I'm pretty sure the .055 measurement in Kuhnhausen's book is for the lug slot depth in the slide. That's not the spec for lug engagement. On the latter, .045 (approx. 80%) is plenty. Nowlin barrel spec is .040. Also, I don't see how filing on the upper barrel lugs centers the firing pin. It should do the opposite, since you're moving the barrel further up in the slide, and further off center relative to the firing pin.

[Pat Miles]

Filing the upper barrel lug recesses allows the barrel to have more upward engagement.

[ltdmstr]

Of course. The question is how much is enough. .055 seems excessive.

[Pat Miles]

You're correct in regards to the .045" engagement. My bad.