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Critique my 3 Gun Rifle Build


shaun1826

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This will be my first 3 gun rifle build. I've assembled the following list of parts. I'd like to hear from some experienced 3 gun shooters on my selections. If you have any recommendations or suggestions on things to change or want to fill in the blanks on some of the parts feel free to do so, especially if one of the 3 barrel choices I have would be better than the others. The clubs that I shoot have a max distance of 550 yards and I will be getting a 1-6 or 1-8 to go on the rifle. Thanks!

Lower Parts:

Forged or Billet Lower Receiver? – Spikes Tactical Crusader Lower (forged) or Black Rain Ordnance (billet) – already have either

Trigger – SD3G – already have

Luth-AR Skullaton Fixed stock or Magpul MOE Rifle stock

Buffer tube – _________ Brand?

Lower Parts kit- ________ Brand?

Magpul Grip

Upper Parts:

Vltor Mur 1S upper (deflector shield only) – already have

16” Barrel - Stretch 16 Fluted Melonite, Stretch 16 Melonite or Stretch 16 Phantom Precision Barrel?

Gas Block? Need adjustable? The barrel can come with a SST Premier .750 Low profile gas block(non adjustable), gas tube and roll pin

JP low mass BCG

JP silent captured spring standard version with extra springs

_________Hand Guard? Looking for a flat bottom one to help make barricade shooting easier.

Raptor AXTS charging handle

Seekins ATC compensator

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Regarding your barrel choice between the 3 versions of the Stretch-16, accuracy will be the same across all versions, fluted version will be slightly lighter (3 ounces lighter). Other than that it would be your preference of color/coating and if you want melonite coating. The stretch-16 does not require an adjustable gas block and you will receive lots of opinions on whether or not they are necessary, but in my humble opinion the gas system really shines if you can tune down the gas.

Regarding JP silent capture spring, I ran one of those for the past 2 years with my 3-gun rifles. Flawlessly, no malfunctions, but it is heavy and the extra spring pak is unnecessary. This year I changed my buffer system to a JP extra power tuned spring with the TACCOM light weight buffer system, which is MUCH cheaper as a whole system and lighter as well, and I am happy I made the swap. Just something to think about. Otherwise my operating system on my rifles is exactly like yours.

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Any buffer tube, any LPK. Just buy DPMS like everyone else does.

SLR-7 gas block

Pick a different compensator like a JP or SJC

Flat bottom handguards aren't winning any matches

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Seekins makes a good adjustable gas block, it's quite a bit cheaper than some out there.

Handguards are a personal thing, get whatever you like. I would go with something in the 12-15" length and light as you can afford.

Brakes are the same, I've had good luck with Surefires.

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From what I've been told by a gunsmith, the pin holes on billet lowers tend to oval over time, versus the forged lowers. I would not use either of those lowers, they'll be beat to hell if you shoot often enough and quite frankly that Crusader lower is too pretty for that.

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The SLR gas block, in my experience and a few other shooters I hang out with, will lock up quickly and become not adjustable or you will break off screws trying to adjust it. Not a huge deal but if I pay for an adjustable block I kind of like to think it will be adjustable... The Seekins comp works well and looks good also. I have 3 rifles with the JP LMOS buffer and TTI springs and one rifle that I am putting the JP silent captured in. I seem to be able to make it happen just fine with the JP LMOS stuff. That being said, I have not shot the SC yet. If you like the SD3G trigger and are good with it, use it. I had a couple and on long range I never shot well with them. I use the AR Gold in matches and I have a couple of ELF's in back up/spare rifles. My main go to rifle has an ALG Defense handguard. It isn't very flat but it works. My 2nd favorite rifle has an SLR Helix... it is very light but has a lot of sharp edges and bigger holes. I went with a Solo Lite on the rifle I am putting together right now.

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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.

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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.

Careful with the inner diameter on those rails. Several of us ran those for a season and the SLR gas blocks were contacting the inside of the rails rendering them non-free floating. I switched to a different rail system because of this.

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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.

Careful with the inner diameter on those rails. Several of us ran those for a season and the SLR gas blocks were contacting the inside of the rails rendering them non-free floating. I switched to a different rail system because of this.

Bullitt, do you have a hanguard that is similiar that you would recommend? Or is there an adjustable low profile gas block that would work with the SOLO?

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I ran the solo lite and ultralite handguards on rifles last year and had no issue with SLR clamp on blocks. If needed, grind down the screw heads for extra clearance. Additionally if you go with a setscrew block you will get even more clearance.

I do recommend the SLR block on the Stretch16s ... Started this seasons build with the included block but switched to another SLR as it made the gun shoot even smoother (which is saying a lot)

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Save money get a forged slickside upper. Those VLTOR MUR uppers are heavy for what they are. As for coatings I prefer melonited barrels when I get them; last longer and have a little bit more velocity.

I run the SLR Helix Ultra Lite with SLR set screw gas block - no contact and the rail the SUPER light. I will echo that it's got a lot of holes/edges to it, but that's the name of the game when you build a weight weenie. Big fan of the ALG rails as well - cheap, but not that light.

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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.

Careful with the inner diameter on those rails. Several of us ran those for a season and the SLR gas blocks were contacting the inside of the rails rendering them non-free floating. I switched to a different rail system because of this.

Bullitt, do you have a hanguard that is similiar that you would recommend? Or is there an adjustable low profile gas block that would work with the SOLO?

If you are set on the Solo rail, a set screw SLR sentry will fit underneath just fine but is only compatible with the Melonite stretch-16, all the cerakoted versions do not fit a set screw gas block due to the added thickness from the cerakoted. Grinding the screws on a clamp on sentry-7 is an option as well.

As far as rails, I have gone back to a Noveske NSR about 5 times now, it's a little heavier than a lot of the newer rails but it's simple and works. I also have an ALG EMR and it's a fine rail as well but even heavier. Neither have clearance issues with the gas block.

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The Stretch barrel is working well for me. IMHO the SLR hg should NOT provide clearance issues with the clamp on SLR GB, but it does...the BCM also req some grinding....unk why Stretch barels come ceracoated anyway....there really is no need for it...but they sure do shoot! I believe this is documented on another thread...

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Regarding your barrel choice between the 3 versions of the Stretch-16, accuracy will be the same across all versions, fluted version will be slightly lighter (3 ounces lighter). Other than that it would be your preference of color/coating and if you want melonite coating. The stretch-16 does not require an adjustable gas block and you will receive lots of opinions on whether or not they are necessary, but in my humble opinion the gas system really shines if you can tune down the gas.

Regarding JP silent capture spring, I ran one of those for the past 2 years with my 3-gun rifles. Flawlessly, no malfunctions, but it is heavy and the extra spring pak is unnecessary. This year I changed my buffer system to a JP extra power tuned spring with the TACCOM light weight buffer system, which is MUCH cheaper as a whole system and lighter as well, and I am happy I made the swap. Just something to think about. Otherwise my operating system on my rifles is exactly like yours.

I think I've settled on the Melonited Stretch 16 as the melonite seems to offer some benefits over the cerakote. Is there any reason to not go with the Fluted option in order to save 3 ounces?

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Seekins makes a flat bottom hand guard, i used one for a while, honestly its a little heavy and not as easy to grip like you would a small diameter rail but it makes one hell of a surface to shoot off of. I use a Seekins adj gas block as well, never had any issues with it or readjusting with between two different barrels and two rifles, and the barrel i use now is a stretch16, it a super soft set up

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The ALG EMR rails are good value, light and have plenty of clearance for your gas block. I have the V2 because I still run BUIS.

I prefer fluted barrels, as long as you don't mind spending a few extra bux for them.

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Looks just like my build. You can piece together a LPK from Primary Arms that way you get each piece that you want, or order a LPK with a grip without the fire control group from Palmetto State Armory. As far as buffer tube you can look into the WMD Guns NiB-X Nickel Boron Buffer Tube, the coating may help the spring and the buffer move more freely if you dont go with the JP CS.

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I really like the look of those SOLO Handguards, particularly the SOLO Ultra Lite Hanguard-mlok. It looks like everything I'm looking for....flat bottom, very light at 10oz, doesn't have a picatinny rail all the way down the top. Thanks for the heads up on it.

Careful with the inner diameter on those rails. Several of us ran those for a season and the SLR gas blocks were contacting the inside of the rails rendering them non-free floating. I switched to a different rail system because of this.

Bullitt, do you have a hanguard that is similiar that you would recommend? Or is there an adjustable low profile gas block that would work with the SOLO?

If you are set on the Solo rail, a set screw SLR sentry will fit underneath just fine but is only compatible with the Melonite stretch-16, all the cerakoted versions do not fit a set screw gas block due to the added thickness from the cerakoted. Grinding the screws on a clamp on sentry-7 is an option as well.

As far as rails, I have gone back to a Noveske NSR about 5 times now, it's a little heavier than a lot of the newer rails but it's simple and works. I also have an ALG EMR and it's a fine rail as well but even heavier. Neither have clearance issues with the gas block.

SLR told me a couple of months ago that they changed the screws on the clamp on block to provide more clearance. I have all set screw blocks so I don't know this to be fact.

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