sweetback Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 https://vimeo.com/157392781 Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZackJones Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 What'em I missing. . . . If your running an Open Gun, why would you shoot minor ? It's a steel challenge gun where we don't have a power factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerritm Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 I"ll back Garretm his gun runs as well as as my 2011 , Minor does not hurt him at all . Minor hurts everyone. Even someone as accurate as Michel or Tilley. 2015 open nationals had two people shooting minor. Both finished outside the top 200. Doesn't hurt me, Glock open gun is mostly used for 3-gun with no power factor. Load is just enough to make the comp work and keep muzzle and dot on target. For USPSA it would be a liability. Although I do shoot USPSA and am able to keep my scores competitive I would go with a 2011 for trigger and major power. For 3-gun open the reliability factor of the mags/gun in a very dirty environment far outweighs the benefits of a 2011. gerritm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novock Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) Mine runs terrific. Homebuild with 10-15k 9mm major and another 5k minor through it so far... 90 degree cmore mount Carver 4 port comp lone wolf barrel glock 17 gen 3 sjc frame weight stainless guiderod with 11# spring 3lb striker spring with Zev Fulcrom Ultimate kit - trigger and striker setup (basically all the guts) - (I swap all springs about every 5k) jp magwell taylor freelance big stick extensions 115 grain bullets, fed small pistol primers with HS6 running at 171pf It can be done... takes quality parts, patience and a solid understanding of loading and load development, basic gunsmithing and a parts bin of extra parts (springs ect for tuning to your load) Care to share your charge and oal for major and minor load with hs6? I run 115 grain fmj's at 1.155 and 8.7 grains HS6 with federal small rifle or pistol primers and range pickup brass. no pressure signs and shoots flat. I have 2 different barrels, one runs around 171pf (the one in the gun) and the other runs at 176pf so work up to this vs starting here. I can make major with 8.5grains of HS6 and the same oal, but the gun feels better at 8.7 Edited March 2, 2016 by Novock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kk4364 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kk4364 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 This is my glock 35 carver mount that gives about 1mm of clearance from slide currently building next step 9mm conversion barrel with 3 port comp and zev heavy magwell. Will update on how it runs Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyliearms Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Faith restored. I had a 100 round run today after some mods and the gun run great while holding about a 2 inch group at 25ish feet. I lowered the ejection port to be even with the top of the angle and then sanded and blended it in. Then, I added about 3mm worth of spring from a safety plunger spring to the plastic bearing on the extractor to give it more tension. I also took an extended ejector and bent the tip up to the point it touched the slide giving it a higher point of impact. I experimented and found an Xtreme 124 9mm under 3.4 grain of Titewad will work the comp decent and provide little to no felt recoil for steel. I have not chrono'd it yet but based on data I'm assuming it is about 950fps. I'm using a new ISMI 11lb spring that I cut 5 rings off of. So, now I have a low PF steel recoil spring assembly and a higher rate major setup both that run really well. Gonna run another 100 tomorrow and hopefully get the same result... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USNRET Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I built a Gen 3 Glock 34 into an open gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 I built an Open 34 similar to USNRET's rig above, only with the big SJC magwell and an upright C-more. I built and tuned it one step at a time, getting the comp/springs tuned, then the ejection pattern and mount. I did all machining myself as I have a mill. Lowering the ejection port by .100" and adding the extended/tunable ejector got it running 100%. I lightened the slide by taking a ton of metal out of the sides/top, run a 9lb spring and titanium rod, 3 port Carver comp, etc. It runs like a top with minor loads, haven't played with major yet. Honestly I'm terrified of major in this gun...the slide is downright sloppy after tens of thousands of rounds and I feel like it'll self-destruct. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZackJones Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) Lowering the ejection port by .100" and adding the extended/tunable ejector got it running 100%. Can you provide some details on how you tuned the ejector. Was that a DIY project or did you buy something? Edited March 15, 2016 by ZackJones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 Faith restored. I had a 100 round run today after some mods and the gun run great while holding about a 2 inch group at 25ish feet. I lowered the ejection port to be even with the top of the angle and then sanded and blended it in. Then, I added about 3mm worth of spring from a safety plunger spring to the plastic bearing on the extractor to give it more tension. I also took an extended ejector and bent the tip up to the point it touched the slide giving it a higher point of impact. I experimented and found an Xtreme 124 9mm under 3.4 grain of Titewad will work the comp decent and provide little to no felt recoil for steel. I have not chrono'd it yet but based on data I'm assuming it is about 950fps. I'm using a new ISMI 11lb spring that I cut 5 rings off of. So, now I have a low PF steel recoil spring assembly and a higher rate major setup both that run really well. Gonna run another 100 tomorrow and hopefully get the same result... A word of WARNING do not run major with slide lightened. If you want to shoot 9major use a full uncut slide. 1911 slide constructs do not translate well to glock MAJOR builds. DANGER WILL ROBINSON! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) I built an Open 34 similar to USNRET's rig above, only with the big SJC magwell and an upright C-more. I built and tuned it one step at a time, getting the comp/springs tuned, then the ejection pattern and mount. I did all machining myself as I have a mill. Lowering the ejection port by .100" and adding the extended/tunable ejector got it running 100%. I lightened the slide by taking a ton of metal out of the sides/top, run a 9lb spring and titanium rod, 3 port Carver comp, etc. It runs like a top with minor loads, haven't played with major yet. Honestly I'm terrified of major in this gun...the slide is downright sloppy after tens of thousands of rounds and I feel like it'll self-destruct. lol Sorry sent wrong reply to Wyliearms. It was meant for RippinSVT steel gun build about him lightening his slide. Edited March 15, 2016 by sweetback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirty whiteboy Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Prety sure that's all open guns You obviously haven;t been squadded with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noexcuses Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 A word of WARNING do not run major with slide lightened. If you want to shoot 9major use a full uncut slide. 1911 slide constructs do not translate well to glock MAJOR builds. DANGER WILL ROBINSON! Why is that? And how about with a aftermarket slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Thanks for the concern Sweetback, any idea why? I actually do have some reservations about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Lowering the ejection port by .100" and adding the extended/tunable ejector got it running 100%. Can you provide some details on how you tuned the ejector. Was that a DIY project or did you buy something? I bought one of the extended ejectors, then set about gently (and barely) bending it up/down/left/right until my brass ejected at 2:00 every single time. It runs like a Swiss watch now, before it would jam up on cases stuck between slide/mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 A word of WARNING do not run major with slide lightened. If you want to shoot 9major use a full uncut slide. 1911 slide constructs do not translate well to glock MAJOR builds. DANGER WILL ROBINSON! Why is that? And how about with a aftermarket slide? The word from John Nagel (SJC) is to leave slide as is for 9major builds. Cracked slide occurs when lightened. He should know. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetback Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 A word of WARNING do not run major with slide lightened. If you want to shoot 9major use a full uncut slide. 1911 slide constructs do not translate well to glock MAJOR builds. DANGER WILL ROBINSON! Why is that? And how about with a aftermarket slide? The word from John Nagel (SJC) is to leave slide as is for 9major builds. Cracked slide occurs when lightened. He should know. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Same for after market slides. Leave uncut. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyliearms Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 Most of the cracking occurs at the midpoint of the ejection port when people over lower them trying to get them to eject. .001 is all you should need. If you remove mass from the top and side of the slide without thinning the metal from the underside you should be able to shoot major no problem. Alot of lightening jobs is to strip material from the undersid of the slide making it thinner and less rigid. Thats where I was was always told that the problems begin. I could go a step further and have been told to never shoot major in a Glock period but I know plenty of people who have. Frame cracking would be more of a concern with me with a lightened slide than the slide itslef breaking anywhere other than the port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Most of the cracking occurs at the midpoint of the ejection port when people over lower them trying to get them to eject. .001 is all you should need. If you remove mass from the top and side of the slide without thinning the metal from the underside you should be able to shoot major no problem. Alot of lightening jobs is to strip material from the undersid of the slide making it thinner and less rigid. Thats where I was was always told that the problems begin. I could go a step further and have been told to never shoot major in a Glock period but I know plenty of people who have. Frame cracking would be more of a concern with me with a lightened slide than the slide itslef breaking anywhere other than the port. Do you mean .100" for ejection port? Tenth of an inch is standard practice, but a person could cut more off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ickus Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 My stock slide didn't last 500 rounds, shoot'n 172PF..Now I'[m running a Lone Wolf 416 SS with lowered EJ port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 My stock slide didn't last 500 rounds, shoot'n 172PF..Now I'[m running a Lone Wolf 416 SS with lowered EJ port wow...i'll stick to minor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshxdm9 Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 My stock slide didn't last 500 rounds, shoot'n 172PF..Now I'[m running a Lone Wolf 416 SS with lowered EJ port wow...i'll stick to minor. I agree! Between cracked slides, fte's , ftf's NO THANKS! I have been working up minor loads with 11 & 13 lb springs and have had no issues with the gun running 100% at around a 140pf with hs6 and 3n38. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wyliearms Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Most of the cracking occurs at the midpoint of the ejection port when people over lower them trying to get them to eject. .001 is all you should need. If you remove mass from the top and side of the slide without thinning the metal from the underside you should be able to shoot major no problem. Alot of lightening jobs is to strip material from the undersid of the slide making it thinner and less rigid. Thats where I was was always told that the problems begin. I could go a step further and have been told to never shoot major in a Glock period but I know plenty of people who have. Frame cracking would be more of a concern with me with a lightened slide than the slide itslef breaking anywhere other than the port. Do you mean .100" for ejection port? Tenth of an inch is standard practice, but a person could cut more off. I did. I apologize... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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