Am I over analyzing reloading .40?

[KindredGhost]

Hey Everyone,

I want to start this post off with this statement. I'm incredibly new to reloading. That being said, I'm reloading for 2 different guns, my custom 2011 .40 with a barsto barrel, and my relatively stock xdm 5.25 .40 of which the goal is to make major power factor on both guns. I'm using a xl-650 to reload with two different tool heads as I think it'd be easier to swap out tool heads rather than readjust everything.

There are three questions to this post.

1. What's a good recipe that will make major (i'm aiming for 172 power factor) for my xdm 5.25. .40 using 180 gr rnfp hpcb and vv n320?

I came across a recipe on the sage reloading facebook page which is as follows:

180 gr rnfp, 4.6gr n320 @ 1.125 oal. This makes 170 power factor.

I cross referenced this with what I found on the vv website (but isn't an exact match) which shows:

Starting Load: 180 gr Fiocchi LTC (i have no idea what ltc means), 3.5gr n320 @ 1.126 oal. This makes 883 fps

Maximum Load: 4.1 gr @ 968 fps

2. The recipe I found uses 4.6 grains of n320... over .5 grains the manufacturers maximum load. Is this safe?

3. Is there really a big difference in barrels? Couldn't I have just found a recipe on a glock forum from someone who reloads a glock 35 and just used that recipe because the barrel lengths are similar?

I apologize for my ignorance... I just like having my guns in one piece and retain use of all my extremities.

-kg

[RangerTrace]

For my G35 = 5.0 grains of N320 under a 180 grain Zero TMJ to 1.130"

For my Infinity = 5.4 grains of N320 under a 180 grain Zero TMJ to 1.20"

[al503]

There can be big differences in bbls, even 'identical' bbls from the same manufacturer in terms of accuracy and/or velocity.

Unless you're ok with just going for the max load, which will probably make major with a little cushion, your best bet is to start low and work your way up in terms of the charge. Access (buy or borrow) to a chrono to check the velocities is a must.

You may also want to determine if your bbl and magazine will accept a longer OAL than 1.125". In general, the longer you can go, the lower the initial pressure spike and that usually translates to a 'safer' load. Do a search for 'plunk' here.

It takes a little time and work but that's the beauty of rolling your own. You can tailor your ammo to your comfort/liking/preferences.

[redwoods]

I was using 4.5grains of Solo 1000 to make major.

I opened a new jug of Solo 1000 with a new lot number (made a couple years later and not the same batch) and had to use 5.0 grains to make major.

[Hi-Power Jack]

1. I'm new to reloading.

2. I'm reloading to make major power factor

Uh, oh.

No problem reloading .40 minor for the first time, but loading .40 MAJOR - can be a problem.

As al503 mentioned above, 1. start low and work up (SLOWLY) 2. use a chrono 3. The Plunk Test.

All good info.

ALSO, you need to make sure you are not experiencing bullet set back - load up rounds, and push the

heck out of the bullets - try to push them into the case - then re-measure the OAL - if it shortened,

you have bullet set back.

Bullet setback, in a .40 MAJOR, especially with heavy bullets/fast powder (e.g. 180 gr bullets and

N320 powder), can cause MAJOR PROBLEMS real fast.

Go slowly, only with a chrono.

Welcome to the world of reloading .40 Major.

[himurax13]

Where did you find a jug of SOLO 1000???

[PKT1106]

Chronograph. Get one.

[ttolliver]

Also read up on how to recognize pressure signs in the way primers flatten and flow. That's your outward gauge of the pressure spikes you're generating.

[GrumpyOne]

LTC=Lead Truncated Cone

[GrumpyOne]

I would suggest starting out with a more forgiving powder, even if it is not ideal for what you want. You can safely make major with Alliant Power Pistol, virtually impossible to double charge a round, cheaper than N320...drawbacks are it is LOUD and flashy. Cut your teeth (so to speak) on very safe loads and then venture out to the deeper waters.

[jsg]

Nothing beats personal verification.

Get your hands on a chrono and test some low power rounds then work your way up .2 at a time.

I load 40 major with 200 grain Xtremes over Bullseye or Titegroup. I wasted quite a few rounds starting about .8 too low and testing as I worked up to my final load. I also run 40 major through a STI so I can load them longer (1.180)

If you see pressure signs on the brass (flattened primers, primer flow, extractor marks, etc) you have already gone too far.

Set back is a big concern in 40 major. As someone stated above, ensure you have your crimp set right.

[Hi-Power Jack]

far.

Set back is a big concern in 40 major. As someone stated above, ensure you have your crimp set right.

Very important to set your crimp correctly, or you'll lose accuracy or reliability.

But, crimp doesn't affect set back. That's a function of ensuring that you're

sizing your empty cases tight enough (some dies are better than others).

If you suffer from set back, you may not know it unless you're loading a .40

to major with a heavy bullet and fast powder.

Best to check by pushing bullet back into case as hard as you can, against

your work bench, and then re-measuring the OAL - see if it got shorter.

[jsg]

While I agree that taper crimp is secondary to proper sizing when it comes to setback insurance, over taper crimping can positively enable setback issues.

[Civil.tech]

Hey Everyone,

I want to start this post off with this statement. I'm incredibly new to reloading. That being said, I'm reloading for 2 different guns, my custom 2011 .40 with a barsto barrel, and my relatively stock xdm 5.25 .40 of which the goal is to make major power factor on both guns. I'm using a xl-650 to reload with two different tool heads as I think it'd be easier to swap out tool heads rather than readjust everything.

There are three questions to this post.

1. What's a good recipe that will make major (i'm aiming for 172 power factor) for my xdm 5.25. .40 using 180 gr rnfp hpcb and vv n320?

I came across a recipe on the sage reloading facebook page which is as follows:

180 gr rnfp, 4.6gr n320 @ 1.125 oal. This makes 170 power factor.

I cross referenced this with what I found on the vv website (but isn't an exact match) which shows:

Starting Load: 180 gr Fiocchi LTC (i have no idea what ltc means), 3.5gr n320 @ 1.126 oal. This makes 883 fps

Maximum Load: 4.1 gr @ 968 fps

2. The recipe I found uses 4.6 grains of n320... over .5 grains the manufacturers maximum load. Is this safe?

3. Is there really a big difference in barrels? Couldn't I have just found a recipe on a glock forum from someone who reloads a glock 35 and just used that recipe because the barrel lengths are similar?

I apologize for my ignorance... I just like having my guns in one piece and retain use of all my extremities.

-kg

I would never exceed the manufacturer's recommended maximum charge without working up in .2 gr increments using new or once-fired brass, all of the same manufacturer and lot. Inspect each and every spent case for signs of excessive pressure at each .2 gr developmental increment. Cartridge overall length becomes critical as the load pressure reaches the operating maximum pressure. Use a chronograph to check velocities and stop when you have achieved your velocity goal. Loads developed over the maximum recommended charge weight should never be fired in an alternate firearm without redeveloping the load. Likewise, if you change primer brand, case brand, powder lot, or ambient air temperature, you must redevelop your load. Unless you have a firearm with a compensator such as a USPSA Open Division handgun, I would not even go to all of the trouble.

A better solution is to pick a powder that you can use to achieve the desired bullet velocity without exceeding the manufacturer's recommendations. I prefer handloads that duplicate factory specifications in both pressure and velocity. Making major power factor can sometimes be a problem with certain firearm/ammunition combinations but a chronograph will provide the necessary reassurance that you have the velocity that you need to make major with a given bullet. For some of us, finding a place to use a chronograph can be a problem as busy public ranges often slow productivity to a crawl. Also, not all powders are readily available.

Select a suitable powder/bullet combination and do your homework! Good luck and safe shooting.