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Setting up a Gen 4 Glock 35 for limited


David.Hylton

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After shooting production with a Glock for several years I decided to move to limited. I didn’t want to switch platforms completely so I bought a Gen 4 Glock 35 for my project. Here’s what I’ve done to it:

Trigger job from Scottie at Seven X Armory.

SJC frame weight and heavy magwell. I trimmed the bottom off the medium grip insert so it is held by the pin and the magwell screw. When installing the frame weight make sure the screw are not pulling the weight off the frame. I had to drill the holes in the adapter plate three times to make sure the screws could set flush without pulling away from the frame.

Steel Glock rear sight and Dawson fiber optic front sight.

Taran Tactical Innovations magazine +5 base pads. I need to work on these to maximize capacity.

Custom Kydex holster from Redeye Tactical.

Developed a major load 180 grain Montana Gold Bullets and 4.4 grains of Titegroup for about 170 pf. using the factory barrel and springs.

The magwell had to be modified to work with the TTI base pads. The base pads would rub on the magwell causing the magazine to bind. Scottie took care of this also as you can see in the picture.

Building the holster took some adjusting, but when we got it done it works great. The frame weight has to be installed properly so it doesn’t drag on the holster.

The extra weight of the magwell and frame weight balance well and help control the recoil of the major loads.

I ran it for the first time at a match yesterday and had a great time. The set-up seems like it will work well, but it doesn’t make up for my short comings.

Next it's dry-fire and practice on the range

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Looks ready to go to me! FWIW. I've shot my G35 in 3 matches now and I've had 2 failures to extract, which caused double feeds. I thought Glocks never failed!! :surprise:

Ranger if your gun is a newer one check out the Apex extractor.. it will likely cure your problem.

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Ok, I've read the SJC instructions and looked online for videos. I don't have one in my hand, but how exactly is the frame weight held on? If I'm understanding correctly from the directions the silver bar goes on first, then the weight comes on and they are pinching on to the rail from the front and back?

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You install the aluminum plate on the light rail with the long side of the plate forward so you can see the serial number on the frame. Drive the weight onto the frame using a wooden block or soft dead blow hammer. Once you have the weight fully seated to the rear use a dril bit smaller than the holes in the weight. Drill each hole into the plate to create a divote that the nose of the set screw can seat into so each set screw gets a good bite into the plate. Degrease the threads in the weight and the set screws with Acetone or alchohol, apply a small amount of blue LocTite. Run the set screws in until they contact the small divets you drilled into the plate. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SET SCREWS. All you want to do is make sure each set screw is seated into the divots, run them in until you feel them seat and then a half a turn more. Make sure they all get equal pressure. If you try to "tighten" the set screws you will pull the weight away from the frame. Let the Loctite cure overnight while making sure your weight is installed straight and plumb on both ends and sides. You are done and it will not move until you are ready to hammer it back off.

If the frame weight has pinched the frame making it contact the slide use a Dremel with the small sandpaper drum (perfect fit) or some sand paper wrapped onto a round dowel. Carefully remove the offending polymer until the slide clears the frame. If the weight causes interference it won't be much so just a touch with the Dremel or a very small amount will be removed with the sandpaper dowel until you can see some daylight around the front to the slide and the frame. You are done.

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You install the aluminum plate on the light rail with the long side of the plate forward so you can see the serial number on the frame. Drive the weight onto the frame using a wooden block or soft dead blow hammer. Once you have the weight fully seated to the rear use a dril bit smaller than the holes in the weight. Drill each hole into the plate to create a divote that the nose of the set screw can seat into so each set screw gets a good bite into the plate. Degrease the threads in the weight and the set screws with Acetone or alchohol, apply a small amount of blue LocTite. Run the set screws in until they contact the small divets you drilled into the plate. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SET SCREWS. All you want to do is make sure each set screw is seated into the divots, run them in until you feel them seat and then a half a turn more. Make sure they all get equal pressure. If you try to "tighten" the set screws you will pull the weight away from the frame. Let the Loctite cure overnight while making sure your weight is installed straight and plumb on both ends and sides. You are done and it will not move until you are ready to hammer it back off.

Cheers! That makes complete sense to me! I was a bit confused about the hammering part but I understand now.

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The frame weight goes on tight. I have 5 of them installed and none of the 5 were easy to get on by hand. I had to add some motivation to fully seat them. Be sure to read the frame clearance part I added above just in case you have that problem. Out of the 5 I installed 2 of them needed a small amount on the frame removed to clear the slide.

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You install the aluminum plate on the light rail with the long side of the plate forward so you can see the serial number on the frame. Drive the weight onto the frame using a wooden block or soft dead blow hammer. Once you have the weight fully seated to the rear use a dril bit smaller than the holes in the weight. Drill each hole into the plate to create a divote that the nose of the set screw can seat into so each set screw gets a good bite into the plate. Degrease the threads in the weight and the set screws with Acetone or alchohol, apply a small amount of blue LocTite. Run the set screws in until they contact the small divets you drilled into the plate. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SET SCREWS. All you want to do is make sure each set screw is seated into the divots, run them in until you feel them seat and then a half a turn more. Make sure they all get equal pressure. If you try to "tighten" the set screws you will pull the weight away from the frame. Let the Loctite cure overnight while making sure your weight is installed straight and plumb on both ends and sides. You are done and it will not move until you are ready to hammer it back off.

If the frame weight has pinched the frame making it contact the slide use a Dremel with the small sandpaper drum (perfect fit) or some sand paper wrapped onto a round dowel. Carefully remove the offending polymer until the slide clears the frame. If the weight causes interference it won't be much so just a touch with the Dremel or a very small amount will be removed with the sandpaper dowel until you can see some daylight around the front to the slide and the frame. You are done.

Seems like a lead filled light would be easier

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I installed the plate as Bowenbuilt describes. But from their my installation was different. I installed the weight tapping it with a mallet to make sure it was completely seated. I tightened the set screws until the made firm contact with the plate. I removed the weight and plate. Then using the divots from the set screws as a guide, I drilled holes through the plate. I re-installed the plate and weight. The holes allowed me to set the screws flush when I set them. A little thread lock and I was ready to run.

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