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What is the screw goop that keeps a screw tight called.


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If you want vibration get purple which is available in auto parts stores. It does not require heat. If you want to set and forget with only a slight chance of removal get blue which is the next step up. Red is a step above blue and usually requires a bit of heat to break free enough to not destroy the screw/ screwhead.

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Blue for anything that maybe taken apart later

Red for anything that never comes apart later

Green is used to fill voids, somewhere between red and blue

This is the logic that I use on 737s

This is the correct info regarding Loctite.

Fasteners with red Loctite can be taken apart or removed but a good amount of heat is necessary. A hair dryer will NOT work!

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FWIW there are so many different manufactures and grades within them color isn't the indicator it used to be.

Read the bottle. Some green is bearing retainer, some purple is "wicking" most use red to indicate "hi strength" and blue "medium" but not every one.

For example Loctite makes no less than 22 different formulations (I say no less because I have some that are not on this list) http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/166733_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide_032010_Web.pdf

And now they only use 5 different colors for all of them.

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Just looking to mount a small red dot to a 1911. Obviously need protection from vibration.

Depends, if you use counter sink screws the taper and surface area alone will keep them from backing out.

If your looking at a set screw, I would use 222 or nothing first. If it moves go to 243. 263 on a #5 set screw or smaller will generally result in a stripped out socket if you ever try and remove it.

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While people are used to using color as a reference, take care to know what Number you need. "Blue" Locktite is #242 and comes in a red tube with a blue stripe. "Red" Locktite is #271 and comes in a nearly identical red tube with a red stripe.

You can find similar looking tubes in an automotive store but with different numbers used for different things.

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220 seems to be the best for our gun smithing use

Another place where it gets confusing. Too many numbers...

220 a medium strength (blue) wicking formula designed to used on preassembled parts. Works just fine for guns.

242 and 271 are high temp, mil-spec, designed to go onto parts prior during assembly

Edited by Graham Smith
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Thread locking compounds are rated by torque. most people think higher is better, but it is rated for thread size. There are also gap fillers, and bearing locking compounds. Personally I don't use them, but rather only use Permatex # 2 for gun parts. I have installed hundreds of Glock sights, and several dozen dots, using Permatex. None have ever come loose, and if you ever need to switch sights from one to another, it does no damage to remove it as this material never fully cures. It is also highly solvent resitant

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