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Anyone seriously mill a carry 1911?


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Hey all,

Just picked up a springer ROC and on my way to the range now. I've been thinking about my ultimate carry gun for like 2 years now, and a lot of the day dreams go to custom work on this CCO size pistol. In playing with it it seems nice, but could be lighter.

I'm wondering if anyone has lightened the slide and maybe fluted the barrel on a smaller carry gun. If not for faster recoil (which it should help with) then it seems that taking more metal away will make it lighter to carry. I can't seem to find much or any info on this so far.

What do you think? Worth it or waste? S&w and Glock sell cut slide versions of guns, so not too worried about liability for carrying a "competition gun"

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Back in the 90's I got to play with a full sized 1911 that Bill @ Cylinder and Slide had lightened for carry. While he didn't cut windows in the slide he took weight out almost every where you would think plus some places you wouldn't. it was really light for a steel framed gun. I am in the process of doing the same thing with a Springfield Champion with a steel frame but will be doing some carving on the outside of the slide as well.

Edited by Bob Hostetter
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Seems like a lot of work when an aluminum frame would stand up to the demands of carry, and save a lot more weight.

it already is an aluminum frame. but a big steel Bull Barrel.

Back in the 90's I got to play with a full sized 1911 that Bill @ Cylinder and Slide had lightened for carry. While he didn't cut windows in the slide he took weight out almost every where you would think plus some places you wouldn't. it was really light for a steel framed gun. I am in the process of doing the same thing with a Springfield Champion with a steel frame but will be doing some carving on the outside of the slide as well.

nice! what are you doing to the slide to trim weight? Oh, I just read elsewhere that I could tri-top the slide. I didn't think of that.

Just found this picture. looks pretty nice! http://gafiringline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/ga_firing_line_1911_tri-top.png

Edited by steviesterno
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I'm used to carrying an LCP, which is silly light. that's why I'm thinking lighter will be better. I want it to be an all day carry kind of thing, too. The LCP is a silly 9 oz, and this 1911 is coming up at 29.5 oz total. I know I won't get it down that low, but to have a carry gun that's actually shootable seems worth while to me. Easily hitting head sized target at 50 feet the first time out with the ROC, so I think it will be a keeper.

Another part of me really wants a bad-a$$ carry gun. I sold all my competition gear to fund some family stuff twice over the last 2 years, so I'm also trying to see how nice I can make a gun I actually spend some time with.

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I think half the battle is won with a quality belt and holster. Above and beyond that there are some easy and not so easy ways to lose weight. A polymer or aluminum mainspring housing and light weight grips would be easy/cost effective. Lightening the slide and barrel will obviously require machine work and may adversely afect the way the gun cycles/handles. Of course the possibilities are nearly endless if your pockets are deep.

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Kimber Ultra TLE II with a Desantis IWB holster and I forget it's there. 26oz empty weight, 3" barrel in .45 that'll shoot 3" @ 45'. As a carry gun I'm not sure you can ask for much more. I tried carrying my Baer Custom Carry Comanche in an Alien IWB but it feels like a brick tied to my belt. Hard to beat the compact aluminum frames for carrying daily if you're a 1911 guy.

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Lightening the slide is really not all that expensive unless you get all crazy with fins or other cosmetic lightening. Cylinder and Slide get $162.00 to lighten a slide. I have thought about doing the same thing on my Kimber Compact.

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I have been looking at the limited picture thread in the gallery here and there seems to be a lot of really cool ways to take weight off. I'm currently leaning towards tri topping, as I don't want lint or dirt snaking into the action part of the gun, but that doesn't seem to be a worry in a competition, constantly clean it kind of gun.

just interesting that I'm not seeing so much slide lightening floating around on carry gun forums, but it's done heavily in almost every limited gun. And it can't be making recoil worse, or we wouldn't do it?

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Don't cut holes in your carry gun ! It will open it up for debris that does not need to be in there. If this is a gun that your life may depend on, don't do it. If you want the cool factor in a gun, buy a second gun for that. You only have one life and the odds are slim that the gun may malfunction, but why take the chance.

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I have been looking at the limited picture thread in the gallery here and there seems to be a lot of really cool ways to take weight off. I'm currently leaning towards tri topping, as I don't want lint or dirt snaking into the action part of the gun, but that doesn't seem to be a worry in a competition, constantly clean it kind of gun.

just interesting that I'm not seeing so much slide lightening floating around on carry gun forums, but it's done heavily in almost every limited gun. And it can't be making recoil worse, or we wouldn't do it?

I don't like holes open to the outside in my limited guns, but there is a lot that can come off. I had a slide flat topped, with some panel cuts on the side, rear internal lightening on either side of the disconnector rail, and a scallop between the rear sight and breechface. Slide was under 10 oz bare for a full 5" slide and no holes open to the outside.

It can make perceived recoil sharper, but overall it makes the sights return faster for many people.

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I have been looking at the limited picture thread in the gallery here and there seems to be a lot of really cool ways to take weight off. I'm currently leaning towards tri topping, as I don't want lint or dirt snaking into the action part of the gun, but that doesn't seem to be a worry in a competition, constantly clean it kind of gun.

just interesting that I'm not seeing so much slide lightening floating around on carry gun forums, but it's done heavily in almost every limited gun. And it can't be making recoil worse, or we wouldn't do it?

I don't like holes open to the outside in my limited guns, but there is a lot that can come off. I had a slide flat topped, with some panel cuts on the side, rear internal lightening on either side of the disconnector rail, and a scallop between the rear sight and breechface. Slide was under 10 oz bare for a full 5" slide and no holes open to the outside.

It can make perceived recoil sharper, but overall it makes the sights return faster for many people.

sounds like it turned out well. any way to see a picture or 2 of your slide now? and who did the work?

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I have been looking at the limited picture thread in the gallery here and there seems to be a lot of really cool ways to take weight off. I'm currently leaning towards tri topping, as I don't want lint or dirt snaking into the action part of the gun, but that doesn't seem to be a worry in a competition, constantly clean it kind of gun.

just interesting that I'm not seeing so much slide lightening floating around on carry gun forums, but it's done heavily in almost every limited gun. And it can't be making recoil worse, or we wouldn't do it?

I don't like holes open to the outside in my limited guns, but there is a lot that can come off. I had a slide flat topped, with some panel cuts on the side, rear internal lightening on either side of the disconnector rail, and a scallop between the rear sight and breechface. Slide was under 10 oz bare for a full 5" slide and no holes open to the outside.

It can make perceived recoil sharper, but overall it makes the sights return faster for many people.

sounds like it turned out well. any way to see a picture or 2 of your slide now? and who did the work?

Sure- the work was done by Jimmy Vidanes of 1911 Speed Shop.

Gunoutdoors.jpg

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