bayougump Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Guys, something has just started on one of my Stock II's and I'm perplexed on a diagnosis. I recently swapped hammers and Sears between my Stock II's. My match one had the Titan hammer and backup the delta. Other than that they are identical in parts and setup. The reason I swapped was the trigger on my backup was actually better and smoother so swap Sears and hammer and hammer springs and no problem, right? Lol Well now every once and awhile when racking the slide the hammer will not stay cocked back but simply just return forward with the slide. I can rack it again and it will function fine. Also a few times I will have the hammer fully cocked in SA mode and I pull the trigger and best I can describe is the "shot or trigger" breaks yet the hammer will end up only going to half cock and I have to pull the trigger further back for it to go all the way forward as normal. I know easy fix is to swap the parts back but any idea what could be causing this? Could it be the trigger return spring? Maybe the sear is wearing and something not catching when I rack the slide causing the hammer not to catch and cock all the way back? Any suggestions appreciated Gump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 There is a small difference in the locations of the pin holes is the likeliest answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbarnett50 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I bought a used gun that did the same thing. First, don't shoot it in that condition. I learned my lesson. Second, it took a gun builder to fix the sear hammer hooks trugger bow to solve my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 IF it follows and depending on hammer design there is a possibility it could damage the sear surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stician Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I couldn't even swap the firing pins without one getting stuck in the channel if another. These guns are a little esoteric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 I am going to swap back everything but just was trying to diagnose what could have possibly been the culprit. Part of me thinks it has something to do with the sear but who knows. This is what I get for tinkering, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Tolerances are so tight that a few thousandth could make a big difference. Contrary to modern building methodologies 1911's still have to be hand fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ny32182 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I'd vote for Glockinator's repsonse. Once a hammer/sear is fit to one frame, I wouldn't go swapping them to another. I've had hammer follow as well, and it was a matter of the hammer hooks, and/or sear being incorrectly fit to each other, and the shock of the slide closing would cause the hammer hooks to slip off the sear and it would fall to half cock. A gunsmith was able to fix it without new parts, but that is not guaranteed depending on how the parts were modified at first. I'd swap it all back, if it works, great, if not you may be looking at some new hammers and/or sears being needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockinator Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 The angle of the sear surface is so critical that a slightly off angle could cause that. I'm not 100% on this but that could be a negative sear engagement. I've done a couple of triggers but by no means a 1911 expert. For some reason 1911's and I don't get along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) Sear & Hammer's are not "Drop In" parts that you can simply throw into any random gun and expect it to function properly. These parts need to be precision fit to the gun they are in and only for that gun. If you don't know how to properly tune the Sear/Hammer engagement or trigger components then leave it up to a competent gunsmith to do it for you. Edited July 7, 2015 by CHA-LEE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinceislander Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Outside of what others have already suggested, consider keeping your sear and sear spring together or replacing it with a heavier one. Shooter in last week's match swapped his 1911 sear spring for a lighter one, didn't test fire it and his hammer followed at least once on every stage. He was pretty upset. Naturally the Glock guys suggested he sell it for scrap metal and get a Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bam Bam Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I agree with vinceislander, the sear spring needs to stay with the sear and hammer combo. Or get a stronger sear spring, bgc Outside of what others have already suggested, consider keeping your sear and sear spring together or replacing it with a heavier one. Shooter in last week's match swapped his 1911 sear spring for a lighter one, didn't test fire it and his hammer followed at least once on every stage. He was pretty upset. Naturally the Glock guys suggested he sell it for scrap metal and get a Glock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fergus Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 A timely post given I just swapped an EGW sear and hammer from my old Limited Custom to my new one as I wanted the same feel to the trigger. Looks like I'm off to the range to see if there are going to be issues or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 I'd vote for Glockinator's repsonse. Once a hammer/sear is fit to one frame, I wouldn't go swapping them to another. I've had hammer follow as well, and it was a matter of the hammer hooks, and/or sear being incorrectly fit to each other, and the shock of the slide closing would cause the hammer hooks to slip off the sear and it would fall to half cock. A gunsmith was able to fix it without new parts, but that is not guaranteed depending on how the parts were modified at first. I'd swap it all back, if it works, great, if not you may be looking at some new hammers and/or sears being needed. Thanks Nick, that sounds like what's happening. Luckily I've got extra hammers and Sears but hopefully just swapping back will do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Gump, Sounds like your pretravel needs to be loosened up and possibly your 1/2 cock hooks are too high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stician Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Nealio are you referring to a SA trigger with adjustable pretravel? I'm pretty sure the Xtreme parts in my Limited Pro have no such adjustment. I could be corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nealio Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) Yes sorry, been IM'ing Gump on how to remedy the problem. If you take some material off the front of the sear leg that hits the trigger bar it would allow the blade to go down further and engage the main hammer hooks. OR Modifying the disconnector to allow the trigger bar to move forward might also work. But both of these could effect the timing of the DA action where the sear needs to be lifted and the disconnector pushes off the trigger bar. However from the description it sounds like the sear is lifting too early, so I think the sear leg is the way to go. Edited July 7, 2015 by Nealio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yagi Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Sear & Hammer's are not "Drop In" parts that you can simply throw into any random gun and expect it to function properly. These parts need to be precision fit to the gun they are in and only for that gun. If you don't know how to properly tune the Sear/Hammer engagement or trigger components then leave it up to a competent gunsmith to do it for you. This is what i tell people who starts fiddling their Stock 2/3 and Lim Pro... You have to understand the sear/hammer relation plus of course the safety... if you dont it will be more of a headache... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayougump Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Well I got all the kinks worked out by switching things back. All my guns are good to go now.........pretty sure;-) lol. Will be doing some practice Saturday morning and looking out for anything out the ordinary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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