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Broken firing pins and other issues


3gunyotehtr

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Today while running some drills the Apex firing pin broke on my 627. This is the third firing pin broken in a little over a year (one C&S and two Apexs). I went to replace the firing pin and now I cant get the retaining pin out. I can pull it a little bit but then it feels like there is suction on it and I lose the grip and it goes back in. The only thing that I can figure is a little bit of oil got in there and is somehow creating a vaccum. This happened the last time I replaced the firing pin but not nearly so bad. Any idea on why I am breaking so many pins (maybe the light apex spring isnt retracting the firing pin quick enough?). Any ideas on how to get the retaining pin out? Maybe some people just arent meant to work on guns! Thanks!

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Today while running some drills the Apex firing pin broke on my 627. This is the third firing pin broken in a little over a year (one C&S and two Apexs). I went to replace the firing pin and now I cant get the retaining pin out. I can pull it a little bit but then it feels like there is suction on it and I lose the grip and it goes back in. The only thing that I can figure is a little bit of oil got in there and is somehow creating a vaccum. This happened the last time I replaced the firing pin but not nearly so bad. Any idea on why I am breaking so many pins (maybe the light apex spring isnt retracting the firing pin quick enough?). Any ideas on how to get the retaining pin out? Maybe some people just arent meant to work on guns! Thanks!

I have some tiny vise grips that I put masking tape on the jaws for delicate grabbing.

I don't know why so many broken firing pins in your 627 but allow me a stupid question:

What happens if you use a stock .495" SW firing pin?

I would check the FP channel to make sure there's nothing in it that drags on the FP that could keep it from retracting quickly. Clean it thoroughly with Q tip and acetone.

On the three C+S pins I bought, I had to polish the sides to get rid of the casting flash so they would move smoothly. And as somebody else noted, make sure your FP spring is good (I would replace it anyway).

FYI: I broke two of the three C+S pins I bought pretty quickly, threw the third one in the garbage and went back to SW firing pins and never had another problem.

Edited by bountyhunter
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I think the best pins are the titanium S&W pins. The ones I've gotten lately (last couple yrs) have measured between .492 and .495 and that length seems to work just fine. S&W pins got a bad rep because they were sending guns out with "short" pins. Pins that were mid .480s and those were a problem. If I was going to pick a "best " set-up it would be Apexs' light firing pin spring (from the competition kit) and a S&W pin. Of course YMMV.

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I think the best pins are the titanium S&W pins. The ones I've gotten lately (last couple yrs) have measured between .492 and .495 and that length seems to work just fine. S&W pins got a bad rep because they were sending guns out with "short" pins. Pins that were mid .480s and those were a problem. If I was going to pick a "best " set-up it would be Apexs' light firing pin spring (from the competition kit) and a S&W pin. Of course YMMV.

You are 100% correct, but nobody believes it when I post it. For some reason the myth that a longer FP must work better than stock just won't die.... titanium does work better than steel because of less mass gives more velocity and the lighter spring eats up less strike energy too. I side-by-side tested the longer pins (same model 66 guns) against the SW pins and there was no difference in the amount of mainspring force needed to ignite. I suspect that if the longer pins "fix something" the gun probably has a different problem like excessive end shake or too much gap between the cylinder and breech face.

Edited by bountyhunter
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