Steve Moneypenny Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Quite interesting. I'm impressed and very intrigued... what supplier has them in stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apexer Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Quite interesting. I'm impressed and very intrigued... what supplier has them in stock? Ditto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Look on the big thread. I'll text my contact and repost if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) I worked on the X-Cal magazines, which come with a reduced capacity red follower, to increase capacity. I have managed to port the capacity to 17 by sanding the legs of the follower. This is done slowly, as these followers would be made worthless if you remove too much material. I compared to the GP6 magazines I still have and these have much smaller follower. This operation was done in conjunction with the addition of a CZC extended base pad: http://czcustom.com/cz75-extended_base_pad_long.aspx I could push the capacity to 19. I understand that Angus claims he can push the capacity to 20 on these magazines, but I believe that it is done with the use of the very special follower and spring that he also sells on his site: http://czcustom.com/czcspringandfollowerkit10.aspx I have not tried this magazine yet, I intend to do so next Tuesday at a steel match. Obviously, I am doing this to see what solutions we have for high capacity magazines when shooting limited. The 20-round magazine is still a great option, as I have one and love it. Apparently the capacity of those could be pushed to 23 by using options still from CZC. It would still be an option to look into. The 20-round magazines for GP are still not available yet from what I could see. Soon, I hope? Otherwise, when playing production only, I would recommend the red followers. The longer legs and post make them more reliable, as they are less likely to flip around and lose tension. Magazine with CZC extended pad on my X-Cal. And, oh yeah, that's 3M tread tape on the grip. Edited January 19, 2015 by NicVerAZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phucheneh Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Even though I have no use for them, I want my mags to look all cool and stuff like yours. Heh. I got around to really checking trigger pull on my X-Cal today...no, I still didn't use a gauge; rather than pay a little money for something that's probably accurate, I chose to pay no money for something very accurate. ...it takes between 900 ans 950 mL of H2O to trip my SA. Though I like 'mils of H2O force' as an alternative to 'pound force,' allow me to translate: Two pounds and one ounce. Plus maybe one more ounce to account for the vessel I used to hold my water (milk jug). ...I'll have to find another milk jug to test the DA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 That's funny. But whatever works, right? I think the trigger gauge is as essential as your bullet puller, which you don't really need, because you can just toss the misloaded round away. I bet that if you add up the cost of these rounds, at $.10 each, it will take 250 of them to make up for the $25 the bullet puller costs you, right? Which will probably never happen even in 10 years of very active shooting and reloading. But, since this is a hobby, I don't mind spending $25 for one or a trigger gauge. My next purchase will be a spring gauge, so that I can experiment and also measure the weight of the springs that come with the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 21, 2015 Author Share Posted January 21, 2015 (edited) I had one light strike which failed to ignite the primer on Saturday and then tonight I had about 5 or 6. My guess is that the stock hammer spring assembly is there for a reason: it is reliable this way. If you experiment the way we do by removing the end cap from the hammer spring or even chopping the spring as one of us did, make sure to clean up the firing pin assembly channel, or you will have issues. My guess is that if you adjust the hammer spring tension, you need to also do the same and tune the firing pin spring accordingly. From this conclusion I see two things: the possibility for aftermarket "kits" and huge cases of f*#kwithititis (usually a Glock disease but I've seen 1911 shooters suffer from it badly). I am going to clean up the channel tomorrow and shoot a steel match on Thursday, then I will report. Edited January 21, 2015 by NicVerAZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phucheneh Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Man, you had me worried... I finally got out to put a few rounds through mine after work. 150 rounds with zero malfunctions. An examination of my spent casings appears to show primers that have had the shit knocked out of them...primer dimple has a significant raised rim of displaced material around it, which seems like something I usually see more with revolvers. Will grab a pic when I get a chance. I feel like this experience adds substantial evidence that you can get a lighter trigger with more hammer velocity by tweaking the hammer spring and not removing the follower ('end cap;' I've settled on 'follower' as my term. I know we can all agree on one thing- 'firing spring back-up' is a little too Slonglish* for common use). *yes, I have also decided that strange translations from Slovak to English are 'Slonglish.' I was gonna use 'Slinglish,' but I fear it may be confused with 'Swinglish,' which is what I used to call technical documentation for Volvo cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phucheneh Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Here's some of my brass that I saved. I grabbed a few from the first mag and a few from the last mag. They all look the same, for whatever that's worth. Also, I pulled the gun out to clean it and realized that my rear sight has shit itself. The blade on the back is sliding back and forth freely...gonna have to investigate this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Tell David about this issue. I am considering switching for a Kensight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e-mishka Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) I played with short tanfo hammer springs in my k100 when i had it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 22, 2015 by e-mishka Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) those primers looks bad. that looks like pressure signs to me. Have a look up what 'cratered primers' or 'primer flow' looks like. those look cratered to me. it can be from a bit firing pin hole (ie loose firing pin to hole fit) but it's also often a pressure sign. if you have some standard velocity factory ammo I'd fire that and see if you still get those craters. Edited January 22, 2015 by BeerBaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 (edited) those primers looks bad. that looks like pressure signs to me. Have a look up what 'cratered primers' or 'primer flow' looks like. those look cratered to me. it can be from a bit firing pin hole (ie loose firing pin to hole fit) but it's also often a pressure sign. if you have some standard velocity factory ammo I'd fire that and see if you still get those craters. Those rounds look like commercial loads to me. No idea what you're talking about.And yes, it is a loose firing pin. The design is very simple and efficient, it does require regular cleanup with dirty powder. Edited January 22, 2015 by NicVerAZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 those primers looks bad. that looks like pressure signs to me. Have a look up what 'cratered primers' or 'primer flow' looks like. those look cratered to me. it can be from a bit firing pin hole (ie loose firing pin to hole fit) but it's also often a pressure sign. if you have some standard velocity factory ammo I'd fire that and see if you still get those craters. The GP guns always produce primer strikes like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Those primer strikes look like the result of a firing pin that is too round at the tip. Dawson, Henning, or McLearn should be able to design a FP that will stop the primer flow. I have one or more FP's from each of these builders and what they have in common is a relatively flat face and a near-perfect fit to the FP hole through the slide. The Grand Power has a conventional round profile, this is a problem that can be fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Those primer strikes look like the result of a firing pin that is too round at the tip. Dawson, Henning, or McLearn should be able to design a FP that will stop the primer flow. I have one or more FP's from each of these builders and what they have in common is a relatively flat face and a near-perfect fit to the FP hole through the slide. The Grand Power has a conventional round profile, this is a problem that can be fixed. I don't want to sound like I am being facetious here but when you say "too round at the tip": compared to what? Is there a standard of what firing pins should look like? And why? What if I told you that in 3 years of shooting a K100 competitively I have had very little misfires (less than .01%) and that the few I had had nothing to do with the quality or style of the strike but rather a dirty firing pin channel from shooting dirty powders like Unique or a bad primer (mostly CCI)? If you want to bring this up to Grand Power, you can probably contact them and explain your opinion. They can probably explain their design to you. Again, not being dismissive or facetious. If you think there's an issue, feel free to bring it to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 By the way, talking about the firing pin channel, I found out that that part was also resigned from Mk7 to Mk12. I explained earlier that you had to give a quarter turn to the firing pin before extracting it: not anymore. Punch out the retaining pin and simply full the firing pin gently with needle nose pliers or just use gravity to let it drop. You can remove the spring for inspection but you can leave it in there during cleanup. It does not slide easily, by the way, meaning that it is a tight fit. All you need are 3 Q-Tips with Hobbes 9 and that's it. Re-install the firing pin, punch the retaining pin back in and you're done. The slide even has notches on each side of the retaining pin channel so that your punch does not damage the slide. I personally do not lube the channel. Just inspect to make sure that the pin shows up right behind the hold. I'd do it once every 10 some matches. Just good general maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 fair enough. I had no idea that all xcal fired primers look like that. as I said it can be a sign of primer flow (ie overpressure) or in this case it sounds like it's just a sign of a loose firing pin hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric nielsen Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 The reason I bought aftermarket firing pins, four times, is because they were designed better and worked better than the original equipment from Caspian, Tanfoglio, and STI. So if Grand Power has a FP that works but isn't optimal, they're in good company. I hope someone will make a FP that seals the internals of the X-Calibur slide from primer flow. If that's Grand Power, great. If it's someone else, great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck223 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 The reason I bought aftermarket firing pins, four times, is because they were designed better and worked better than the original equipment from Caspian, Tanfoglio, and STI. So if Grand Power has a FP that works but isn't optimal, they're in good company. I hope someone will make a FP that seals the internals of the X-Calibur slide from primer flow. If that's Grand Power, great. If it's someone else, great. Let me check the firing pin channel on my mk7 Xcal. As I've never cleaned it out in 25k, can we assume if there was a problem with flow, I'd have a wee bit of debris built up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phucheneh Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 (edited) So your primers look just like the ones pictured? I had not noticed it on my P1, and not previously with the X-Cal...but since the guns were not altered, I didn't feel I had much reason to check...I knew they were working properly. But when I start swapping or altering springs, I start paying attention. I was wondering if perhaps what I was seeing could even be attributed to my firing pin having a reduced velocity and not making it as far out of the breech face at it would on a stock gun. Either way, I can't say I'm worried. The gun functions fine (better than fine) and I am not of the opinion that any part of it (we'll ignore the rear sight thing) is really wanting for anything. I don't look at the play between parts and say 'hmm, they could have machined that to fit tighter..' ...well, yeah. They COULD have. But they chose not to, because moving steel parts with zero clearance between tend to not work so great. These guns are designed damn well...there is a lot of thoughtfulness that is easy to recognize. I have developed a certain amount of faith that all the main functional parts are made like they are to combine durability and reliability with the finest action you're going to find in sub-$1000 handguns. On a totally random note, it suddenly struck me that the tolerance thing may be why you see so many expensive 1911's with constant reliability complaints. They built it to be pretty and seem functionally superior; you hand cycle it and say 'man, it locks up like a bank vault!'. Unfortunately, bank vaults are for storing money, not shooting bullets... Edited January 23, 2015 by phucheneh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Moneypenny Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Does anyone have recoil spring detentions or weight on the Wire springs. I have a Red Spring in my XTrim and it is way too much spring. Grand power or wolf don't have anything for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicVerAZ Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Get the 13lbs spring for Beretta 92 and cut it to fit. You may want to experience with different weights. I am going to buy a spring scale from Dillon and start reporting on what I found. I just remembered that all my springs were stolen with my range bag. I definitely need to call Eagle Arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Moneypenny Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 They are on the way, they will get your information and contact you when it comes time. Thanks. I have many glock beretta Tanfoglio springs and many others. laying around, i know a full length 11 pound for an EAA was way too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phucheneh Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I myself am curious of the stock spring rates. There can't be more than 1-2 pounds difference between the wire springs; as I said either in this thread or another, I cannot perceive any functional difference in them. Just the slightly different free heights. The red spring, though, is serious stuff. Gotta be 18lb+, I'd think, just comparing it to other guns with known rates. I bet the blue one in my mk7 is in the 14-16 range. Steve, did your gun come only with the red spring? Did you look underneath the foam liner for extra goodies? When I picked my X-Cal up, I was disappointed to find no extras...then someone there chimed in with 'check under the foam.' ...it took until them for me to realize that there were also a couple things in my mk7 box, too. Namely, the shorter front sight I had always thought the gun needed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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