Ronnie j Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I'm looking to get my 1st safe for my meager collection. I searched and didn't find a whole lot. I'm looking at Cannon's American Eagle series it appears to have alot of features for the money. I don't think my collection will grow too much more it's currently 7 handguns and 3 long guns. I am pretty set on the electronic lock just from the stand point that if it is easy to use I will actually use the safe more. I've really no misconceptions about how much security a safe actually provides, I would just like to stop the causal thief, kid , guest, whatever from getting into my stuff. I did read Rob B's excelent comment's on locks and manipulation by the pros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I think we had a long thread on electronic locks. The only things I can suggest are: 1- get one bigger than you need because you will fill it up and 2- get one that will fit through a standard closet door. Otherwise your placement options get much more limited. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I agree with shred. Buy bigger than you need but small enough to put where it needs to be. Also, bolt it to a concrete floor if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie j Posted February 3, 2005 Author Share Posted February 3, 2005 Gotcha on the closet door , I really don't want to go less that 30" wide , that will fit my current closet I've got in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tangram Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Check out the electronic lock. My lock beeps loudly with each input. Not exactly a stealth mode. It would indicate if the "kids" were messing with it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tman33_99 Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Definately get as Big as you can afford and fit. I would also recommend looking at fire ratings....not all safes are created equal in that regard. I bought my American security 4 years ago for just over $1000. It is 60x30x21 and has the sandstone matte finish. I would not recommend getting a glossy finish. It will show scratches and scuffs more than a matte speckled finish. During my last move my safe came off the dolly and got pretty scuffed up on the sidewalk. After touch up, you couldn't tell at all. No way I could have done that on a gloss finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Law Man Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Keep this in mind too. If at all possible place the safe in a place where neither side is accessible. All a determined thief has to is take a skill saw with a carbide blade and cut right through the sides, never mind all the locks and bolts on the door. Fire proofing is a good idea too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezer-lock Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Be sure you buy from someone that DELIVERS! geezer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Boudrie Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Pay attention to wall thickness. Typical so-called gun safes are 12 guage or 10 guage, but there are models available in 3/16" and 1/4" thickness. Since the most practical avenue of attack is entry through the side door, this is probably more significant that the difference between a Group II, IIm or I lock or the number and style of relockers in the door. A TL15 or TL30 rated box is a serious safe, but will offer more weight and cost, with less interior room than a "gun safe" (virtually none of which would be suitable for true high-value applications such as a jewelery store). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgary Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 Be sure you buy from someone that DELIVERS! Perhaps I'm paranoid (hey, was that another black helicopter?), but... I actually went the other way. I paid cash, picked it up myself (rented truck and a few friends). Years ago my parents had an in-floor safe installed in the floor of their bedroom closet. A couple of years after that, their house was broken into, and the only thing messed with was that safe. Turns out a whole string of burglaries came back to the guy who delivered and installed safes for the place they bought it... he knew exactly who had bought safes and where they were, and... well, I've never forgotten that. I figure that my friends already know I own guns, and know where I live. The guy I buy a safe from doesn't need to know either one of those. Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Law Man Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 I installed mine myself..600 lb safe. Had the business place it in the back of my truck, drove home, backed into my garage. Unscrewed the pallet from the buttom of the safe. Laid carboard from the box, and old carpet on the ground leading into my door. Laid the safe down on its back and pushed it (slides real easy on carpet) into my house and into the room where it is. Only tricky part was standing it up, have to worry about the door shutting on your fingers. I then shimmied it into place..Piece of cake...Not really, but I did do it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doggorloader Posted February 4, 2005 Share Posted February 4, 2005 Like I said in my post in this topic, first floor maybe (only cause It's been a while and I've kinda forgotten) second floor forget it as in don't even think about it. My distributor has the best prices on safes I've ever seen and still charges $250 delivered anywhere you want it and guaranteed no damage safe or house. Take it for sure, it's well worth it. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16168 Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeeper Posted February 5, 2005 Share Posted February 5, 2005 Electronic lock is the best thing ever for convience.(i must have missed the electronic lock post). Safes only keep out kids and stupid criminals. I could tear my safe open with my plasma cutter in 30 seconds. Most safes that get broken into are actually stolen and then broken into. Bolt the thing to the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 Yeah, but you know where to cut.. thief doesn't know you're not storing gunpowder in there.. Time+effort+risk = typical burglar goes away. If you're going to be targeted.. nothing will save you. Get too good a safe and they'll snatch you to get the combo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Boudrie Posted February 6, 2005 Share Posted February 6, 2005 You only need to know where to cut if you are trying to get at the mechanism to open the front door. If you're going through the side door, you just need to know where you want the door to be. Two hints: (1) If you have metal cutting blades, thermal lances, det cord , etc., store it inside the safe so miscreants don't use your own tools against you. (2) Once you get the safe, take the door off, put a ruler in the photo to give scale, and take several photos of the inside including all remote relockers (if any). Also include a clear shot showing the extent of the hardplate, and if there is a glass relocker. Store these photos in a safe location outside the safe. If you ever have a lock failure, the safe technician will find this invaluable and you will very likely end up with fewer holes to repair, less out of service time, and a smaller bill. There are differences even between differents units of the same safe, particularly if there are remote relockers. Diagrams available to recognized box men (members of the safe and vault technicians association) from the manufacturer are not always accurate, and can take some time to get. A drill job can be neat and if done properly, repaired to good-as-new from a security point ... but "done properly" means getting it right the first time. (3) File a copy of the combination with your will, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 I was told pros will cut the top to pull the long guns out. Requires a lot less cutting, with less risk to the guns. I think a blackpowder or explosives sticker would be a nice accessory for a safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie j Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Already thought of the explosives stickers Rob thanks alot for the tool storage advice gonna have to buy a bigger safe I think, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipplehead Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Hey I need to get a gun safe and need sugestions.....What are the good brands and what specif features must I besure to get? My gander mountain has their own line Timber Ridge rated at 1200 degrees for 45 min/ and 30 @1200 is that good? Those safes are key locks always thought a combo would be better!Any and all imput is needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standles Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Heh there... I went through this agony of "getting the right one" about a year ago. I decided I wanted locking on 4 sides, the electronic lock, and at least 1 hour of burn protection. add to that I decied to go big to avoid having to buy a second time. The big decision I have patted myself on the back many times over for doing that. The stated #guns held is often high. Determine how large your budget can afford then upsize to the next level. In the end here was my choice. I had a local dealer and got it for 2499.00 out the door with goldenrod and delivery/setup. http://www.libertysafe.com/safe_Lincoln.lasso (it was the 50cf one) Hope this helps, Steven PS. Best peace of mind I ever bought...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shred Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 Gun Safe Advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCNet Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 I too have been looking at safes and I'm thinking of going with one of the American Security BF series. One question I've had that I haven't found a suitable answer to is, "How heavy can the safe be before I need to think about reinforcing my floor?" The model I'm looking at is 800 lbs, and I have no feeling if this is too heavy for fairly typical three year old construction over a crawlspace. I know building codes differ by region, but I'm not sure who to ask to find out. I would be interested in hearing from others who have gun safes on how heavy they are, what kind of "foundation" they are installed on, and if you did anything special, (or had any problems ) after installation. Thanks for your help/insight. Roger N. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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