KOBGT Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Besides price difference, is the aluminum any more rugged than the polymer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flatland Shooter Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 The only problem I've had with the plastic C-More is the frame will crack between the windage adjusting screw and the screw that locks it in place. So far I've not had any problems with the aluminum C-More. Its mounted on a shotgun. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I guess I am lucky with my plastic Cmore? Mine holds zero, rarely needs a battery and it gives plenty of notice when it needs a battery by slowly getting dimmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OPENB Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I have 3 plastic & 1 alum. 2 out of 3 plastic have been great, hold zero, no cracks. The one has has cracks at the mounting holes & battery cover but holds zero just fine. The alum. one is bomb proof, but heavy. I run it on a flat top AR. There is still nothing better for an open gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naim Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) I have been running cmores pretty hard for the past ten years. I have both aluminum and polymer. They both have their pros and cons. The plastic ones usually crack at the windage set screw. I have just rebodied a few scopes and cmore has tried something new by adding more material to this area. Seems to work so far. The problems I've had with the aluminum other than the weight is the electronics/switch going out. I guess something to do with them being more rigid than the polymer. If I had a choice I would probably stick with the polymer. Seems to work just as good as the aluminum. Plus I like the serendipity model. With that said there is no better scope for open pistols in my opinion. I have an open gun with over a 100,000 rounds and I finally had the scope rebodied. We are running top fuel dragsters it's normal for things to break. For me cmores have held up better than most. Edited December 16, 2014 by naim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slinginlead Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Aluminum for me all the way. I know I can locktite my adjustment screws and they stay where I put them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niroth81 Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 (edited) My brother has one cracked where the windage screw is. Seems like something that is not all that uncommon. For you guys that have the issue, has it effected accuracy, or zero hold etc at all? Edited December 17, 2014 by niroth81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Elliott Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Secret to not cracking the C-more at the windage screw: Tighten the lock screw down till it's just snug. Now do your windage adjustments without unscrewing the locking screw (the windage screw will turn just fine). Once you have it dialed in, float some rubber cement in around the lock screw to prevent it from walking. This should hold everything in place and you can still adjust the sight again if you need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARK Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 How much they charged you for re-doing the polymer on the scope? I gave one cracked and thinking about sending it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc51g Posted December 20, 2014 Share Posted December 20, 2014 alum only way to go no matter what it is on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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