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needing advice on first rifle build


obsessiveshooter

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I'm a USPSA shooter and with the bottom dropping out of the AR market, I'm building my first AR. It's important to me that whatever I end up with will be useful for 3-gun.

The biggest thing for me is price. I know, "buy once, cry once". But, with AR's, I'm not sure that applies here as much as does with pistols. For instance, I picked up a stripped mil spec flat top upper for $35. A stripped lower for $50. A stainless spiral fluted 18" mid length barrel for $100. 15" freefloat rail for $40. I know this stuff may not be as accurate or lightweight as the really nice stuff, but I'm willing to start out with this stuff and see what is does.

So, with a mid length gas system, how important is to have an adjustable gas block? Will using a compensator muzzle brake be sufficient?

Should I get a full auto or regular BCG? Is there a coating I should go for?

Will a no-name $30 compensator patterned after the JP/miculek ones perform just fine?

Is there any real advantages to buying an expensive charging handle?

What is the typical, sufficient optic setup for a cheapo newbie?

I know I could find answers for some of these Q's after hours of reading online but my brain already hurts from all the research I've already done, and Benos forum guys are always so helpful...

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Since you are looking at cost, go with a non adjustable gas block and standard BCG. M16 or AR15 types makes no difference, as it will be semi-auto only anyway. Also don't buy into the coating hype - the regular parkerized BCG's are just fine.

Stick with a basic mil-spec charging handle - you can always add an extended latch later if you want to.

As for the brake, just get the real deal JM. They are cheap enough anyway (~$40) and you know what you are getting.

For the optic, best bang for buck is the Aimpoint PRO for Tac Limited or the Burris MTAC 1-4 in Tac Scope.

Also, spend the coin on a decent trigger. Since you're building, get the JP classic trigger and cut the tail off your mil-spec hammer....

Mick

Edited by MickB
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Thanks Mick.

The $100 barrel: it's from Classic Firearms. 223 wylde, 18" stainless, spiral fluted for the whole length. I think it's made by Bear Creek Arsenal and that they recently bought all new tooling and are trying to build their name back up after some initial quality problems. I figured it was worth a try. After I get the rifle built, I'll have to post a review here on it's accuracy. Maybe I'm an early adopter on the hot-new-ticket ?

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I'm building a couple AR's on the cheapskate plan, too. Still paying heed to quality where it matters, though. Get the genuine Miculek comp. It's great and half the cost of others.

For a variable scope, it's hard to beat the Primary Arms 1-6x in the "bang-for-your-buck" category ($270). If you can wait, Vortex is coming out next summer with a new 1-6x for around $350 street price.

I'd like to hear how that barrel works out for you.

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I think you have a pretty good understanding of how things are coming together and in many ways I see and agree with where you are coming from. In any event, you will have a rifle that will go bang and by the time you learn to shoot it well and run and gun, you will have identified what you like and don't like and what works and what does not. In terms of accuracy the #1 item here is the barrel. Ill be anxious to see what happens with a 100 barrel so give it a whirl. In terms of interface with the target, a good optic is paramount. I good place to start is with an aimpoint. Its not magnified but they will hold a zero and get you started and you will be shooting against other non mag optic shooters. A quality trigger will go along way and a CMC is a good lower budget option to get started. In terms of what you are actually going to see, use and feel its always goo to invest in optics, barrels and triggers in that order. For the record I used a factory colt trigger for years shooting NRA highpower and did quite well.

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An adjustable gas block will help. There are some cheaper ones out there, I bought a used JP for 50 bucks and cleaned it up, I currently run a BTE adjsutable on my old match gun, new it was $45 and I have never had any issues with the set screw getting stuck or backing out on me. The JM brake works, plain and simple. Its cheap and it does what any other brake on the market will do.

You don't need a special coating on the BCG, I personally prefer it just for making it easier to clean. My Young is chrome and I just use a rag to clean it off and lube it again, no need to do any scrubbing but a special coating is not needed. That being said, there was someone selling full mass BCGs on facebook for 100 bucks that were coated. I thougth about getting one and turning it into a light weight for a back up at work when I get bored.

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Oh, I guess I ought to list some of what I got, as a resource for others building an ultra cheap rifle..

BCG for 75, charging handle for 10, from Primary Arms.com

From Ebay: low profile steel gas block, $9 shipped

mid length stainless gas rod & pin, $13 shipped

Magpul pts ctr stock, $25 shipped. I know, it's PTS which means it's for toys, but I highly doubt I will break it.

Milspec buffer tube kit with wrench $25 shipped

From Aliexpress.com: 15" freefloat quad rail. $38 shipped. (They have 15" keymod rails for 90.)

Anderson Arms LPK with stainless trigger, $42 shipped, from Wise Arms

From Amazon.com: forward assist kit and 'that door thingy' $19 shipped

My stripped upper was $35, parkerized blem, found locally.

My lower is an Anderson, $50 shipped from Budsgunshop.com

I don't think it is possible to beat any of these prices. Ebay is your friend. Slickguns.com will also keep you abreast of the current best deals online. By buying online I didn't pay sales tax on a single item.

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Interested in the thread as I'm going to build a new upper at least. But I'll comment on the Primary Arms 1-6 scope. Ordered the other day, received noon yesterday. Mounted it up and sighted in in at 25yds and headed to a night shoot. I knew the longest shot would be 50 yds. I tried it in full sun and was able to see the the illuminated reticle just fine. At night I thought I'd turn the brightness down after the 50 yds shots and turned it completely off while moving to my next position. Didn t matter that much. I was able to see the black reticle just fine. That's my experience so far and I was very happy with my choice. Of course I haven't shot at distance yet.

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