Glock trigger

[Onepocket]

Anyone know anyone or anything about the plastic screw they used to put in the frame of the glock, to take the travel out of the trigger. Thanks.

[LilBunniFuFu]

What are you talking about, pre-travel, over-travel? There is a few ways of doing each but be wary. Most likely you are going to junk a few trigger housing before you get it right and repeatable. My suggestion is to just order a trigger or bar from one of the reputable dealers that already includes what you are looking for.

[Onepocket]

No. I can do that kind. With this you drill a hole behind the trigger guard and screw in a delron screw. I'm looking for some one who knows how to do this.

[RePete]

You would more than likely have to run the drill bit through the front of the trigger guard to get to the location at the rear, for a straight hole and then tap it. One oops and maybe bye bye frame.

It won't be IDPA legal and more than likely not Production legal.

[Butterpuc]

Is this for "over-travel" stop purposes?

[Onepocket]

I read an article some years back about how to do this and yes it takes out the pre travel. The theory is that there is no mushy feel with this set up.

[shotgunone]

I think what you are talking about is where they drill a hole down into the frame, and install a screw or pin, in front of the trigger bow which keeps the trigger from moving as far forward in the frame. Basically its a trigger pre travel stop. I think if you search on youtube there is a video of a guy doing that to a glock.

[BigBoss]

The mushy feel comes from the connector angle. A 3.5 or ZEV v4 is directing the sear rearward and down which is commonly called creep. It's the sear sliding down the striker lug face. A gen 4 dot connector is less obtuse and a stock gen 3 even more so. If you use the latter two then you must know how to re profile the beak that engages the connector as well a compensate for the new resting position of the sear.

[cheezdog]

I'm going to tell you the right way to do it. You need a size 2/56 by quarter inch set screw. You need the corresponding drill to drill the hole. Forgot the drill size maybe 1/16. Drill a hole next to the ejector through the trigger block. Use a 2/56 tap to run through the hole with a little oil on it. Now insert the set screw in the drilled hole until it shows on the other side. This is where the Cruciform rides up against it. The more you screw it in the less trigger reset you'll have. When you do this the safety will have to be shortened to. And that's it. Don't bother trying to reduce overtravel it's just a gimmick they try to sell you. Something the old bullseye shooters liked. It does nothing to enhance your shooting.

[Captiontom]

I tried copying the lone wolf version of the trigger housing with a set screw. I didn't have the right size set screw so i tried to make my own. it broke off in the trigger housing when I was screwing it in. The plastic fork method was my plan b. it works good

enough.

If you want to put in a set screw that is adjustable op then drill a hole in the trigger housing that would protrude where the plastic fork is

Edited December 23, 2014 by Captiontom

[Bryanbach]

What exactly is the plastic fork method? I'm curious

[Captiontom]

What exactly is the plastic fork method? I'm curious

You super glue the tip of a plastic fork in your trigger housing. Glue it to the side opposite of the drop saftey to shorten the over travel. That's what the white pice is in the picture

[cheezdog]

I've never had enough overtravel in a Glock to advise putting a set screw in the back of the trigger block. However if you put a set screw in front of the Cruciform you can reduce the amount of travel the trigger goes forward after it resets.