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Trigger Job for Stock II or III


matts2k

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There are a few differences between the cz and tanfo but that guide posted above is great to follow. If you can't figure anything out or have questions, just ask here and we can answer it for you.

Where are you located?

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I didn't know how to break the gun down when I first tried, I asked a many a question here and several PMs to Atlas and now I wish I would have bought bullets with money spent on trigger job. Take it slow and invest in a few cheap spare parts and you'll be good. The resident Tanfo experts here are very wise

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I have posted already i dont know if it works , it,s from italy who used the stock 2 way before eric graufell did . here is the link

http://nuke.sardiniashootingclub.it/TanfoglioSTOCKIISmontaggioeLucidatura/tabid/191/Default.aspx

and another one in more detail

http://www.interforzebrescia.it/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=91&func=view&catid=12&id=26259

As i am not an expert in the matter i read a lot on italian forums and on Facebook where there is a page dedicated to the stock 2 just to leave it as it is without changing any spring and maybe a good polish , a thing to know if you are having light strikes is to seat the primer all the way down and it work brilliantly

good luck

andre

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I would highly recommend the new Extreme hammer and FP springs. I haven't gotten around to really polishing up one of mine but switching just the hammer spring alone felt like it dropped the DA pull weight over half. Ever since running that hammer spring I've had no light strikes in my other Tanfo

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No, but with the factory hammer springs you will have a hard time lightening the the trigger pull. Isn't that what you're trying to accomplish with a trigger job? Putting that hammer spring in along with the reduced power firing pin spring will help to reduce/eliminate light strikes as a lighter hammer spring will reduce the power the hammer hits the firing pin.

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You can take this FWIW but this is how I setup my Stock II:

-- Henning XL Firing Pin

-- EG Xtreme hammer and FP spring

-- EG one piece sear

-- Xtreme Hammer

-- Henning guide rid

-- clipped coil or pen spring for plunger spring

-- one coil clipped of Mag release spring

-- full polish on top of plunger, sides of trigger bar, and many other points of friction as laid out in Atlas CZ tuning thread

-- CGW reduced power trigger return spring

-- CGW sear spring

-- made sure FPB was fitted to FP

this setup had given me a good smooth DA and very light SA with crisp short reset and 100% ignition of federal primers with my reloads

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Top level trigger job is more than just polish. You can get 75% by yourself. The rest will require am experienced smith to work the sear and perhaps swap out a few disconnectors to get the shortest reset and crispest break.

Jim at J & L is very familiar with this gun. Unless you are at a level where the stock gun is what is holding you back, ammo, live and dry fire will return more results.

A professionally massaged trigger sure feels good though.

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My advice to anyone is learn the parts and how they work yourself. Buy some spares, do it on your own, ask questions here and post pics and many on here can answer every question you may have. Unless it's a broken gun, save yourself some money and buy ammo and learn how to shoot with a trigger that may be .5-1.5# heavier. I WISH I WOULD HAVE GONE THIS ROUTE. I went the other route and let's just say I could have reloaded thousands of rounds and saved a lot of headaches. Their are some I would refer to and some that I absolutely won't.

I can tell you that Last Round Armament is a pleasure to work with getting Tanfo parts and they will get my business from now on along with my #1 source of pistol related gear, Ben Stoeger's Pro Shop.

Edited by bayougump
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I had light strikes with every hammer spring. Figured out it was my firing pin safety. Talked to BE (not enos) about it, got a spare, sanded on it a bit until it measured .502 and now it's been great.

I just finished fixing a botched trigger job from someone that I don't wanna name names for. BE helped me as well. My light strike problems ended up being that someone (not myself) installed the wrong part on mine. Still needs test firing but the trigger functions correctly at least now

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I saw your video. Hammer was clearly short stroking.

My stock firing pin safety was actually not active at all. You could push the pin through while the gun was in battery, but it would some times catch the pin during the firing cycle.

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I saw your video. Hammer was clearly short stroking.

My stock firing pin safety was actually not active at all. You could push the pin through while the gun was in battery, but it would some times catch the pin during the firing cycle.

Yep. It was bad. Got it fixed though today and have my backup gun back in the bag

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