SteveSimmons Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 My RL550B has been in storage for more than a decade due to a combination of work/family/etc. issues. I have taken it apart and cleaned it, re-aligned it with the tool and I'm in the process of getting it back in working order to load 9mm, 45, 38/357, 44, 223, 308, & 30 Rem., and eventually others. While on the phone with Dillon ordering missing and damaged parts, I mentioned that I had built a stainless steel pin wet tumbler and was very pleased with the results. The Dillon rep said not to use it with pistol brass as the powder funnel will stick to the super clean interior of the case and I would have to take the funnel out and clean it every few hundred rounds. Has anyone had this happen? I can't envision how this could happen unless the funnel was rough or damaged. How's that for a first post? I've been lurking for a while and haven't seen this question yet. Thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Just polish the powder funnel to a high gloss and it won't be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babaganoosh Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 It does stick slightly more than with brass tumbled dry. It's enough to feel the difference but it's not a big deal in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Agree with both statements above. It's a non-issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glynnm45 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Non issue when you spray a case lube on the brass before tossing them in the casefeeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I lube all of my cases too and don't have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSimmons Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Excellent news! I'll buff the funnel well and polish it with a little Flitz polish. Now to start the hunt for components for everything..... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cecil Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 I use the wet pin cleaning method on my brass.... never had a problem with powder sticking.. but I do lube my brass before sizing/loading Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bshooter Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Not much of an issue on my 550 but used some wet tumble brass on my 1050 with no lube, thought the machine was going to fly apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcracco Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Do you use Lemi-Shine? My brass comes out with such a high polish my 1050 runs smoother. I do lube 9mm with One Shot but only very lightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSimmons Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 A little Lemi-shine, a little dawn, hot water, & .047 pins and tumble for 2 hours. I separate the pins from the brass, drain the water as best as I can, rinse twice, and toss the brass in the oven at 225F for 15 minutes. The brass comes out dry and looking like brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nghthwk1911 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 So on the wet media, I have tried Lemi-shine and Oxyclean.. and that works great with about an hour run on VERY dirty range brass. If you find that it is sticking once the brass is dry run it in the tumbler for 15 min (corn or Walnut) with a little Nu-Finish to put some wax on the case. But on other topics, Welcome Steve. Let me know if you are looking for matches in VA to shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tires2burn Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 About the wet tumbling, do you decap before? I tried a batch and it took forever to dry, and the oven at 170 for 15 min turned the brass darker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxerjunky Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Yes. I have a toolhead on my 650 with just a universal decapping die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassaholic13 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Yes, decap/resize for me before tumbling. I use the following ratio for brilliant results: 1 - Gallon water 1 - .45 ACP of Lemishine 1 - 2 second squirt of Dawn (there is no substitute) 5 lbs of brass 3 lbs of stainless pellets. Dry on beach towel with fan blowing across brass for 4 hours. Ready to load the next morning. Edited March 13, 2014 by Brassaholic13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveSimmons Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 About the wet tumbling, do you decap before? I tried a batch and it took forever to dry, and the oven at 170 for 15 min turned the brass darker. I think it is critical to decap prior to wet tumbling. I have had some primers corrode and stick to the brass if I tumble without decapping first. Had to throw those cases into the recycle bin. I decap on and old single stage press with a universal decapping die. Works with everything I reload. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tires2burn Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Thanks for the info. I like the final product much better when I decap first. Its worth the xtra step to me. On the cleaning formula, I run 6lbs brass to 8lbs pins 2-45 lemi shine, short squirt dawn and 1 gal water for 2 hrs. Pretty much the regular and they come out looking new. I have a small elec heater that I blow over the brass for 20 min & they are ready to load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeshall Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) Try using an automotive liquid wash and wax product (Turtle Wax or other) instead of dish cleaner. It puts a very thin coat on the brass so the powder funnel won't stick, it sizes easily and the brass stays bright without quickly tarnishing. Edited March 14, 2014 by leeshall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonman556 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Try using an automotive liquid wash and wax product (Turtle Wax or other) instead of dish cleaner. It puts a very thin coat on the brass so the powder funnel won't stick, it sizes easily and the brass stays bright without quickly tarnishing.has anybody else tried this, sounds like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beanie-bean Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I use the STM tumbler system, and substitute Armor All Ultra Shine Wash and Wax instead of Dawn...works like a champ. The brass is also decapped on a single stage prior to cleaning. I have a timer on the tumbler set for two hours. Once the brass has been cleaned this way, it cleans up very easily. Range pickup ("strange") brass will get nice and clean, and will have the showroom finish after the next run. I don't bake mine, nor do I use hot water. It's plenty hot enough here in TX, so most of the time, I spread rinsed brass out on a towel and pat it dry as best as I can, then let it sit in a Gatorade cardboard tray (like the ones which come with the drinks when you buy a case of them from Sam's or Costco) in the sun to dry out. If it's nighttime or rainy, I'll let them sit in the garage, and I'll run a fan over them. I use Flitz on the powder funnels, and periodically run a copper brush on the crimp die insert to get the little brass dust buildup removed. If I ever have to go back to corn cob and Nu Finish, or back to my ultrasonic cleaner, it'll just be a temporary thing until a replacement stainless steel pin wet cleaning system arrives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatnfans Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Just a note if anyone has not tried this but after I wet tumble I put the brass in a cheap dehydrator for about 30-45 min and they are dry as a bone. I have two that I bought from wally world for $25 each and can dry 500 .308 rounds at a time. Only drawback is 9mm and .223 can fall between the trays to the bottom in the models that I have. But not enough of a hassle for me to change processes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Yes, decap/resize for me before tumbling. The main reason I tumble at all is to not feed grit and grime through my dies. Either use a universal decapper, don't worry about the pockets or tumble twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 It's plenty hot enough here in TX, so most of the time, I spread rinsed brass out on a towel and pat it dry as best as I can, Yep in Texas just sit them out in the sun. In 2.5 beers, not only was this batch of 2000 dry but too hot to hold in your hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babaganoosh Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I lay mine out and use a floor drying fan on them. Cuts drying time more than half. When feasible I also lay them out in the sun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tires2burn Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Texas looks like the right place to dry brass. Being in Wa State I don't have much sun in the winter. We all figure out what works best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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