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Losing zero with my Warne Skel mounts


Alaskapopo

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My optics did not shift when they were in Larue mounts and we will see if it happens with the Bobro. I think I know what was wrong with the SKEL mounts. When I took them apart some of the inner threaded sleeves in the rings that accepted the screws came out with the screws. I ended up screwing them back in with lock tight. I had used lock tight (blue) on the screws but did not know about the inner threaded section that was screwed into the rings. Its possible they had come loose causing the drift perhaps.

Pat

Edited by Alaskapopo
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It seems that checking the torque and installation of the fasteners could have saved you some cash. Did you ever call Warne and ask them for suggestions before deciding to deride their products publicly? The instant nature of communication that the internet affords can be fabulous, but when people post things in haste it can be quite damaging to a company, and even if recanted, that damage can never be fully repaired. I hope you have better luck with your new mounts, I bet that the company that made them does as well.

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Hello & Greetings From Warne.

Alaskapopo and others. This posting was pointed out to me by a few friends that frequent the Brian Enos forums.

I'm very sorry to hear that you've been experiencing any problems with the new SKEL mount and want you to be sure that our intent is to manufacture the highest quality mount available. I have discussed with our engineers the point of impact shift that you've had and we are currently looking into it. In our testing we have had no such shift, nor have we had any return to zero issues after removal and re-installation.

Our recommended torque specs that you're using are correct, 25 in/lb on the caps & 65 in/lb on the nuts. However, because we use steel inserts for the cap threads we do not recommend using loc-tite or any other thread locking compound because the compound will seize the screw to the insert, and when removed will most likely cause the insert to come out too. I would be more than happy to discuss any problems you're having with any of our products if you'd contact the factory, all our contact info can be found on our website or on the packaging that came with you mount.

If we determine that either the smaller clamps and/or the opposite side fixed clamp are too small to securely hold your scope in place, I assure you that a modification will be made to our current design. Possibly you would consider being a test mule if we do determine that a change needs to be made.

Feedback from our customers is a great way for us to provide the best quality product, we're all shooters and simply want the best stuff on our guns. As of now, we're very happy with the SKEL's performance in the market, especially at the MSRP of $129.99

Thanks, Warne Scope Mounts

Edited by warne scope mounts
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Dangit! I don't like the direction this is going now. I had my heart set on a good deal on some SKEL mounts. As I stated early in the thread, I have had nothing but good luck with Warne mounts, and I would definitely take my chances. Now there's talk of fixing the problem! Seriously though, they are good people and I am sure they will make it right. Too bad that doesn't involve me getting fire sale prices on the mounts!

Tom

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Stlhead.

1. I did check the torque specs on both the cross bolts and the screws holding the rights together.

2. This thread was not meant to deride anyone rather I was asking if anyone else had a similar problem so I could see if there was a simple solution.

3. I am not upset with Warne stuff happens and this is a new design. But that said my confidence was shaken since it happened on 2 of the three Skel mounts I own. So I purchased new mounts. I appreciate Warne's contribution to three gun and I like many of their products. I like the Skel mount in every way except for this experience. It is also possible that the mount was not at fault. I will only know after shooting the new Bobro's for a while. Part of the scientific method is to eliminate one variable at a time. The mounts were cheaper to replace than the scopes. I will be attending a major match in Texas in April and I wanted to have confidence in my equipment hence the more drastic change vs wanting to go through the long process of sending the mounts to the factory seeing if they could find a problem and getting them back.

4. I was kind of missing the QD capability of the previous Larue's I owned and I am getting that back with the Bobro's.

Nothing in my post was meant as a slam on the good people at Warne.

Pat

Edited by Alaskapopo
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Stlhead.

1. I did check the torque specs on both the cross bolts and the screws holding the rights together.

2. This thread was not meant to deride anyone rather I was asking if anyone else had a similar problem so I could see if there was a simple solution.

3. I am not upset with Warne stuff happens and this is a new design. But that said my confidence was shaken since it happened on 2 of the three Skel mounts I own. So I purchased new mounts. I appreciate Warne's contribution to three gun and I like many of their products. I like the Skel mount in every way except for this experience. It is also possible that the mount was not at fault. I will only know after shooting the new Bobro's for a while. Part of the scientific method is to eliminate one variable at a time. The mounts were cheaper to replace than the scopes. I will be attending a major match in Texas in April and I wanted to have confidence in my equipment hence the more drastic change vs wanting to go through the long process of sending the mounts to the factory seeing if they could find a problem and getting them back.

4. I was kind of missing the QD capability of the previous Larue's I owned and I am getting that back with the Bobro's.

Nothing in my post was meant as a slam on the good people at Warne.

Pat

Then maybe you should have waited to see if the new mounts solved the problem before you "did not slam" Warne mounts

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dmshozer you do what you want when you have a problem and I will do what I want. I reached out to see if anyone else had a similar problem to see if there was a simple fix I had over looked. Anyway I am done debating this with you or anyone else.

Pat

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dmshozer you do what you want when you have a problem and I will do what I want. I reached out to see if anyone else had a similar problem to see if there was a simple fix I had over looked. Anyway I am done debating this with you or anyone else.

Pat

I usually check with others too before going through the company. It's nice to know whether or not it's just you and whether there is a simple fix first. I see nothing wrong with sharing honest observations. I am confident that the company will step in to help to diagnose and resolve. I see them standing behind a lot of 3GN shooters so it's obvious that this community is an important one to them.

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  • 4 months later...

I was interested in this mount a while back and read this thread. After reading it I was having second thoughts about it. I ended up buying one and set everything up with the factory recommended specs. I was shooting this week and had a jam that I flat out put one hell of a beating on the but of the stock while pulling on the charging handle but still couldn't clear it. Ended up having to use a screw driver and hammer to clear it. After all that I was concerned about my zero. Took the rifle back out and the zero had not moved at all. Just wanted to pass on the positive experience with the mount.

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this is an interesting thread....because in my travels I've found there are two types of shooters out there.

those who know how to set up & maintain their mounts/rings.....and those who do not ;)

if rings are allowing the scope to move...then it's as simple as something loosened up :/ and if something loosened up...there was pilot error somewhere along the way most likely.

there is a spec for installation and torque...and 95% of the shooters out there that I know don't even own a torque driver set...which says a lot.

and I wouldn't worry at all about the Warne stuff...their shit is bombproof...I've used Warn stuff a lot in the past and it's always performed at 100% I even have a set of their rings on my Winchester .470 Capstick...ZERO issues there...and if there was ever a rifle that would give you a headache with rings due to recoil..that would be the one!

I am that dork that still laps ALL my rings....regardless of what the manufacturer states about precision machining...because when I take my scope and lay it in their rings and attach it to my rifle and tighten it all down...I would bet a month's salary that the surface between that scope body and those rings is not perfectly flush.

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this is an interesting thread....because in my travels I've found there are two types of shooters out there.

those who know how to set up & maintain their mounts/rings.....and those who do not ;)

if rings are allowing the scope to move...then it's as simple as something loosened up :/ and if something loosened up...there was pilot error somewhere along the way most likely.

there is a spec for installation and torque...and 95% of the shooters out there that I know don't even own a torque driver set...which says a lot.

and I wouldn't worry at all about the Warne stuff...their shit is bombproof...I've used Warn stuff a lot in the past and it's always performed at 100% I even have a set of their rings on my Winchester .470 Capstick...ZERO issues there...and if there was ever a rifle that would give you a headache with rings due to recoil..that would be the one!

I am that dork that still laps ALL my rings....regardless of what the manufacturer states about precision machining...because when I take my scope and lay it in their rings and attach it to my rifle and tighten it all down...I would bet a month's salary that the surface between that scope body and those rings is not perfectly flush.

I know how to tongue and mount my scopes thank you.

Pat

Edited by Alaskapopo
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I am that dork that still laps ALL my rings....regardless of what the manufacturer states about precision machining...because when I take my scope and lay it in their rings and attach it to my rifle and tighten it all down...I would bet a month's salary that the surface between that scope body and those rings is not perfectly flush.

So you are saying you have to lap the rings on the Skel mount?

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I also prefer a good lap dance just prior to a proper mount. It gets me in the spirit. It sounds like you have a similar routine when installing optics. Hey man that's cool too. Free country YO

. [quote name="Alaskapopo" post="2197094"

I know how to tongue and mount my scopes thank you.

Pat

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I am that dork that still laps ALL my rings....regardless of what the manufacturer states about precision machining...because when I take my scope and lay it in their rings and attach it to my rifle and tighten it all down...I would bet a month's salary that the surface between that scope body and those rings is not perfectly flush.

So you are saying you have to lap the rings on the Skel mount?

I personally would... yes. I have all sorts of scopes in all sorts of mounts and rings, lots of combinations basically. I learned my lesson about 7 years ago with a Zeiss Victory 2.5-10 mounted in a set of Talley 3 piece rings, it was also the first set I decided not to have lapped. This would be the 3rd set of those type of Talley rings that I had installed at that point. Put it all together AS PER SPEC and it would just not hold zero. Within 5-7 shots zero would start to shift and I was pissed. This was on a custom .300 Wby and my favorite hunting rifle so it was driving me crazy.

Long story short...after speaking with one of the guys at Talley he informed me the scope was most likely slipping in the mounts. I told him no way....and after checking again told him everything was torqued up correctly and there was no way it was slipping. He came back and told me that even when torqued correctly the nice shiny finish on that Zeiss Victory scope next to the smooth finish on the Talley rings can lead to the tube slipping in the rings under recoil. He said "lap those rings" and it should go away immediately."

I took his advice...and that was the last time I mounted that scope....7 years ago. It was also the first/last time I didn't go the extra distance and lap rings.

I also now take a fine mechanical pencil and run it along the edge of both sides of the rings where they meet the tube body. It makes a nice line and is an easy check to see if the scope body has moved forward/back at all the the rings for any reason.

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Interesting thread. I have never lapped rings, and frankly, have not necessarily committed to top of the line scopes. Lots of variables in the mounts and scopes, heights above bore etc. it is also interesting to see experienced people with strong opinions. I'm starting to get good things, rifle wise, and will go through the process with each optic. I guess I will roll the dice and do the things at least some experts agree on.

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