Brass Cleaning

[ttolliver]

The Lyman 1200 is what I started out with and it's still going strong.

I also recommend a timer. Here's what I use --

http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F7C009/

[SilverBolt]

I am new to reloading. Using a vibratory machine with crushed walnut shells. I add a few drops of automotive polish to the media. I do not de-prime. I am not looking for a showroom shine, I just want them clean. Most match I shoot are lost brass matches so I can't recover a good portion of what I load. If I were shooting precision rifle I would take the time to de-prime and thoroughly clean them. I just finished cleaning about 10k 9mm cases. No way can I give them the showroom new love. I wouldn't have time to shoot.

[Gussers]

1. Does the cleaning media and color matter?

2. Can I use a large rock tumbler or is a vibrating cleaner needed?

3. De-prime prior to cleaning or after?

The answer is: It depends.

If wet tumbling with SS media:

1. no or N/A

2. Only special rock tumbler if wet tumbling

3. Deprimed before tumbling

If vibratory tumbling with dry media:

1. no

2. vibratory tumbler only

3. Do not deprime - media sticks in the primer pockets

I've experimented with wet tumbling primed cases to see how well it worked (or didn't). Surprisingly, I find it better. I don't get pins stuck in primer holes and the inside of the case is still as clean and shiny as the outside. The only drawbacks I've found are you don't get the primer pockets clean and water gets trapped in the primers, so you must leave them to air dry much longer to avoid issues with wet powder/primers.

[glenr]

I have been prepping brass while I collected all the rest of the toys and components to start reloading. I have the HF small tumbler and used it for other cleaning jobs. I like the coarse walnut shell from HF can't beat the price with the 25% off coupon.

I am doing only 9mm and .223/5.56mm.

I deprime with the Harvey depriming tool, with a tray on my lap and a couple of meat plastic trays I can sit and watch the tube depriming. http://www.harveydeprimer.com/ Have done about 5,000 plus 9mm/5.56mm/.223 with now problems.

I use a brass buffing stick coumpound that I scrape off the stick with a coarse shoe rasp, I also cut into strips the used dryer soften sheets and put them in withe casing and media. They will catch the dust, I also have used nu- shine both work well.

One word of caution is do not use brasso or any ammonia based brass polish. If you are going to use and citric acid based type product use it Lemishine etc. use sparingly. It can cause the rosing pink color of the casing when the zinc is remover from the surface.

[texasref]

I use crushed walnut with a little Nufinish. You can add a very little (cap full) of mineral spirits but make sure this set up is outside, the smell could kill.

If you have a Harbor Frieght around or website it, you can get 20 lbs. for 25.00.

Also I don't deprime before. Make sure to knock the media out of the case first when reloading. At this time inspect the case for stress fractures, bulges that sort of thing. You'll see it when the cases are shined up. If you think a case is bad, it probably is. Just throw it in a box and take it to the recycle place for a few bucks when you get a bunch.

When loading 9mm be on the look out for those sneeky 380's

[Steve RA]

Get the Harbor Freight fine walnut hull, it is small enough to not stick in flash holes.

[bigstick0000]

I have been using walnut/corncob for about 7 years now. I mix nufinish with rubbing alcohol to cut the thickness of nufinish and it does a great job. I also throw in a dryer sheet with my brass and it helps with any dust. Never had a problem with any of it.

[ArevaloSocom]

Thanks for asking this. I had the same questions.

[mjohn]

Does the walnut media ever stop creating dust? I am using the nufinsh, mineral spirits and dryer sheet formula and my tumbler is always filthy with dust. Also, large dust clouds are present when using the separator.

[jerson0208]

1. Not to me.

2. Vibratory

3. I never did.

[ZackJones]

Does the walnut media ever stop creating dust? I am using the nufinsh, mineral spirits and dryer sheet formula and my tumbler is always filthy with dust. Also, large dust clouds are present when using the separator.

Are you running straight walnut or a mixture? I use 50/50 corncob and walnut with mineral spirits and don't have dust clouds.

[mjohn]

Does the walnut media ever stop creating dust? I am using the nufinsh, mineral spirits and dryer sheet formula and my tumbler is always filthy with dust. Also, large dust clouds are present when using the separator.

Are you running straight walnut or a mixture? I use 50/50 corncob and walnut with mineral spirits and don't have dust clouds.

I am using 100% walnut. I clean the bowl, the separator cage and bin after ever use so that I am able to start fresh without any leftover residue. Each time I tumble, there is just as much dust as the last time. The dust never seems to subside.

[ZackJones]

I am using 100% walnut. I clean the bowl, the separator cage and bin after ever use so that I am able to start fresh without any leftover residue. Each time I tumble, there is just as much dust as the last time. The dust never seems to subside.

If you can pick up a little corn cob and mix it in it may help. Tough to say though but it's worth a try. I find the walnut is good for really dirty stuff and the corn cob puts a good shine on the brass.

[grouptherapy]

I like to wet tumble with .047 Diam. pins.

Universal decapper first.

If i'm in a rush they run for one-one and a half hours and in the oven for 30 min.

If I'm not in a rush and they will be sitting for 2-3 days I just spread them out on a towel. Either way they look brand new. even the grungy looking tarnished range brass.

Then full length sizing.

I'm kinda OCD sometimes...... Sometimes I will sort them out by head stamps.....then sort those matching headstamps into lots of within .003 case length (sometimes)...

This is a hobby in that shooting and reloading are both relaxing and enjoyable to me when I choose for it to be.

I can only load around 200 rounds an hour on my press so compared to some of the progressive machines I'm pretty much in slow motion....

Just my opinion. Best Wishes.

[Guest]

Just an FYI - Zoro Tools sells 40 lb bags of Econoline corn cob blast media for $22.91 for 20/40 & $25.29 for 14/20 with free shipping for orders of $50 or more.

They have good prices on tools, etc. so it is easy to fill out the order to reach the $50 mark for free shipping.

Edited March 27, 2014 by Bamboo

[vetdocone]

Just type in "brass cleaning" with quotation marks in the search window. It will yields 70 pages on the topic.

But

1. no

2. yes

3. after

+1

[vetdocone]

Homemade case lube ....

1 8oz jar of pure lanolin (on-line)

1 bottle of 99% Isopropl alcohol (CVS)

Melt the lanolin like you would if you were melting candle wax

Add the alcohol and mix until room temp. You will have a yellowish liquid with some lanolin settling to the bottom that won't go into solution. Decant the liquid into a spray bottle and you're good to go. Save the remainder for making another batch.

Makes a ton of lube ....

[vetdocone]

Homemade case lube ....

1 8oz jar of pure lanolin (on-line)

1 bottle of 99% Isopropl alcohol (CVS)

Melt the lanolin like you would if you were melting candle wax

Add the alcohol and mix until room temp. You will have a yellowish liquid with some lanolin settling to the bottom that won't go into solution. Decant the liquid into a spray bottle and you're good to go. Save the remainder for making another batch.

Makes a ton of lube ....

what is your ratio? i put 2 oz of lanolin in 16 oz or the 99% and works great.

[BitchinCamaro]

I'm doing a cheap soapy water pre-wash before I dry tumble. Fill 3/4 of a 5 gallon bucket with brass and cover with soapy water (dish soap) and cap it. Shake shake shake. Let it sit overnight. Shake shake shake. Go about your day until you're ready to tackle brass prep. Shake shake shake. Drain and rinse.

The bulk of the gunk goes out with the bathwater.

Tumbling media after a wet wash lasts forever and gives a faster polish because it's not loaded up with dirt already, and the dust is cut significantly.

Any method gives acceptably clean brass, killing the lead and powder dust was my primary concern.

Check it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDpJT52GiVA

The brass is shaken dry before tumbling, but as long as the bulk of the water is out of rifle cartridges the walnut seems to do a fine job of drying out the inside of the cases. I let them air dry in the sun before final inspection and reloading.

I'm gonna try depriming first the next time around.

Edited March 27, 2014 by BitchinCamaro

[BitchinCamaro]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5y_dsP3dsM

JM does something similar, but on a bigger scale!

[grouptherapy]

Miculek is awesome. On my fav list. B)

[vetdocone]

spray with homemade lube

.

Can I ask what you use?

Pick up the brass

deprime and sort by caliber and/or headstamp.

Curious about sorting by headstamp. Is there a reason? I understand sorting by caliber, but not by headstamp.

[vetdocone]

+ 1

[BitchinCamaro]

+ 1

It sort of reduces the multiplicity of variables between manufacturers, even if just in the mind of the reloader. Don't ask how I know!

It's kind of like asking, "Why do you need a website to shoot guns better?"

[Steve RA]

Other than making you feel better, each brand of brass - while within specs - has slightly different capacities, hardness, etc. These slight differences won't help in making your reloads as close to identical as possible. If plinking beer cans is your goal, it's not worth the effort, if trying to shoot itty bitty groups at some distance, it really helps.