Brent D Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Hey everyone. I recently installed the SRTS drop in disconnector from CZC on my SP-01 Shadow Custom. I am planning on calling Stuart with this question, but may as well put it up here and I may not have to bother him. Everything about putting in the part went great, but I am experiencing only one problem. I am at times unable to drop the hammer for my first DA shot, unless I manipulate the trigger a little. If I pull the trigger all the way back and manipulate the hammer with my thumb and index finger back and forth, I can feel the hammer not completely clearing the seer. If I load the gun, rack the slide and start with a single action pull, the gun functions fine and the trigger resets and I can shoot successive follow up shots. I'm assuming I need to work on the disconnector, but don't know where to start. I'm not a top notch gunsmith, but I'm sure with the right directions I will be able to fix this. Thanks so much in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZ85Combat Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Do you have an over travel adj. on your trigger? if you do, need to Adj. the over travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Czhase Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Yeah sounds like your over travel screw moved, back it out. Edited January 10, 2014 by Czhase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent D Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Yes I do, but the screw is flush on the rear of the trigger. I had that problem some time ago, so I backed it out and put blue loctite on it. It hasn't moved. Edited January 10, 2014 by Brent D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 it's a timing thing. sounds like your DA is so retarded that it's beyond the SA. so your sear is slotting into the SA hooks on the hammer before the disconector drops down to allow the hammer to be released forward in a DA shot. you need to advance the DA a little. I had a similar problem when fitted the pre-b disco to my (old-worn) shadow. the reset point in SA was back behind the trigger break point. so it wouldn't reset in single action. you could make it reset but racking the slide again but was not working properly. some meat taken off the back of the disco 'trunk' solve it. yours sounds like it make need a little taken off the 'ears' that the trigger bar pushes against. take it out. remove a little of the 'ears' but not much. be conservative and re-install and re-test as you remove small amounts of material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feralshooter Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 As beerbaron said, it sounds like the DA needs to be advanced by removing material from the underside of the wings on the disco ( the flats on the wings that would be facing you with the disco leg pointing up if that makes sense). Of greater concern is the sear dragging the hammer hooks with the trigger held back. Did you do any polishing of the sear or trigger bar when installing the disco? If the overtravel screw is not interfering with the trigger's rearward movement, it would seem that the SA has been retarded. The disco should not have changed that at all. If you drop the hammer and continue to hold the trigger all the way back, then cycle the slide, then release the trigger, does it reset properly? The SRT disco can prevent the trigger from resetting in some cases but is easily fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 thanks for the better explanation. for 'ear's in my post read 'wings' in feralshooters! I think if it as an elephants head. when it's in the gun and I'm looking at it from the barrel end I picture those little tabs as the ears, and the downwards 'leg' as the trunk. here's a pic for reference and should now make sense to you, providing you understand how it works in relation to the DA trigger operation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent D Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Hey guys thanks so much, especially for the picture. It makes perfectly clear sense where you are saying to start removing a little material. In answering your question, the gun came from CZC and all the polishing was done there for the trigger work. I will take a look at it again tomorrow and try to post what I find from your last question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asimonp79 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) I had a similar problem when fitted the pre-b disco to my (old-worn) shadow. the reset point in SA was back behind the trigger break point. so it wouldn't reset in single action. you could make it reset but racking the slide again but was not working properly. some meat taken off the back of the disco 'trunk' solve it. Hi, with your problem described at quote above - " some meat taken off the back of the disco 'trunk'" Do you mean you removed the material here - I marked with red "diamond shape" in attached picture, or somewhere else? I read this tread and seen that the reset is involved in this Trigger bow-disco surfice marked with diamond - am I correct? http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42537.0 and quest 2: where to remove material to fix the problem with DA- that problem topic starter described? Edited January 11, 2014 by asimonp79 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Im on my iPhone so please bear with me. The area in your red square is what I call the ears/wings. The trunk/leg is the big long part. Try and picture how it works. In da mode the trigger bow is pushing on the discos ears (which is pushing the hammer back). The part in my problem was in sa mode. It's the width of the trunk/leg that affects the sa pre-travel and reset. Compare it to a factory disco. The trunk is much thicker. In my case a little too thick. So a little had to be removed from the back face of the leg. If you look at what you've indicated in red and call that the front surface of the wings. The surface you need to work on (I believe) is the underside of those wings. Just under your red square. When I'm on a pc I'll do a pic. Or someone smart like feral shooter or kneeling atlas will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asimonp79 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Im on my iPhone so please bear with me. The area in your red square is what I call the ears/wings. The trunk/leg is the big long part. So you removed the blue part a little bit? it wath too wide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Other side of the trunk. But that was to give me a little longer reset in sa. Your issue sounds like its in the da. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feralshooter Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 If you drop the hammer and continue to hold the trigger all the way back, then cycle the slide, then release the trigger, does it reset properly? The SRT disco can prevent the trigger from resetting in some cases but is easily fixed. Adjusting the trunk or leg of the disco should only be necessary if the trigger is not resetting under the above circumstance. If that is the case, then EERW's pic shows perfectly where to carefully and progressively remove material from the trunk. This will allow the trigger bar to move forward more, allowing the trigger to reset. This will have no effect on DA. The DA stroke needs to release the hammer just before the sear can engage the hammer hooks. You can see this by watching the sear/hammer while pulling the trigger through the DA stroke. Once again EERW's pic shows where to remove material to address this separate issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Yep. Eerw's pic is what I was (clumsily) trying to describe. Thanks eerw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent D Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Just an update. After an excellent conversation with Stuart at CZC, I bought a set of diamond hones on Amazon to remove the needed material on the disconnector. I took it off the front and bottom leading edge of the disconnector just as he pointed out on his previous diagram. Everything functions perfectly and I shot a match with it yesterday. Thanks so much for everyones help. The information on this board in invaluable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feralshooter Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 That's great news! As a bonus you now have a stone set that will come in handy for polishing other parts (like the trigger bar, hammer flats etc.) and the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I found working on the disco really developed my understanding of how the 75 works. Happy shooting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asimonp79 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 EERW - thank you kindly sir. Most apreciate it Now I do understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justpaul Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 great thread ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1valdez Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I'm having a hard time taking out the pin that holds the disco. Does it come out easier one way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blind bat Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Brute force and a solid surface. I use the top of my vice with the jaws upened so the pin can fall through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjfung10 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I use a solid surface with a 2x4" piece of a wood cut to size and drill out a hole for the pin to go through (cheap/custom bench block). It's easier to use a starter punch and finish off with a pin punch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1valdez Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Brute force and a solid surface. I use the top of my vice with the jaws upened so the pin can fall through. That's where I had it on and even broke a 1/16 punch. Guess I need a stronger punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R1valdez Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I use a solid surface with a 2x4" piece of a wood cut to size and drill out a hole for the pin to go through (cheap/custom bench block). It's easier to use a starter punch and finish off with a pin punch I'll try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alma Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 Might help to put that 2x4 on your concrete floor too. My table had too much give but a quick whack on the basement floor and it came right out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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