Feralshooter

This is correct. A apologise as I got mixed up having not played with one for a few years. Disregard my previous posts. The photo above shows the solution.

If by wing you mean the long part perpendicular to the body then yes, but the only from the face on the “inside” of the “wing”. Shortening the wing advances the DA break. There are tabs on each side (or only on one side I’m the case of a cgw disco) that could be described as wings so wanted to be clear these aren’t the area that needs work. No special files are needed. Go slow and check often. You’ll be surprised how little needs to be removed. Ill try to dig out a spare disco to photograph.

It’s the disco. It is not allowing the trigger to fully reset in DA. The cure is to remove a little material from the back side of the “leg”. There are photos and descriptions either at the beginning of this thread or search “pre-b disco” threads.

Maybe try the problem sear in the backup gun. If it works as it should, you may just want to replace the TB. I was trying to figure out why and when the problem started to occur but without background I'm just guessing. A new sear is cheap enough. CGW parts are top notch but depending on your game may not be legal (ipsc does not allow them). Fitting a new sear to the safety isn't hard, but can be a pain as you have to keep reassembling to check fit. Go too far and it's ruined.

I was thinking yours might have a shorter than standard TB leg. Guess not. So the problem started after fitting the comp hammer?

Did you have to work the sear after fitting the comp hammer? Any chance you filed on the TB leg instead of the safety leg? The safety block is not interfering with the sear rotation?

Only when I used the overtravel screw (which is now backed right out - more trouble than its worth IMO). Did you polish your trigger bar or sear? A new sear would probably be the cheapest experiment to try to remedy this. You just need a little more meat on the TB leg of the sear. If a new sear doesn't fix it, a new TB may be in order. Hopefully someone smarter than me has a better answer for you. A list of mods may help though.

Oops. I read SP-01 and added shadow in my head. Disregard my above post. HAJO is for shadow slide cut only. Sorry.

HAJO adjustable rear with a 7.5mm front (available with 1.5mm fibre optic) from CZ custom. The HAJO is adjustable for elevation to fine tune POI, and drift adjustable for windage (same as a fixed). I've seen stock shadows shoot different POI with the same loads and sights, which indicates variations from gun to gun. As such there can be no perfect formula, only close to. Having a little wiggle room with an adjustable rear seems the way to go if you want perfect, especially if you may change projectile weight. The new tac HAJO looks pretty sweet too. Edit to add: milling the slide is NOT IPSC LEGAL if that is your game.

Centering would be a good start. Here is the thread UTraab mentioned: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=193426&view=getnewpost

To all you guys loading to just off the lands, have you tried loading shorter? I can load my 124 and 135 Frontier RNs out to 1.140", but accuracy sucks and I have feed issues when the gun gets a little dirty. Loaded at 1.070" (for the 124) I get vastly better accuracy and much better reliability. I do load my rifles just off the lands, but have found my CZ likes shorties. My 2c.

This is a good place to try gunsmithing yourself. If you don't try it you need a new sight. If you do try it and bugger it right up then.... you'll need a new sight. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. It is just a matter of hitting the sharp edge of the sight dovetail with a cold chisel or the like to move some metal into the flats. If you move too much you can always file or sand it down again. The only place you need to be careful is when drifting the sight back in to the slide. Tape your slide and put it in a padded vice with the bottom of the dovetail flush with the top of the vice. This helps protect the serrations. A bit of tape on the end of your drift will help to stop it slipping and also protect the sight from marring. Work slowly and carefully. The satisfaction of doing it yourself is hard to beat.

I would listen to Stuart. This is common practice and he is a (very good) gunsmith. If you deform the dovetail (of the sight, not the slide) enough you won't be able to get it in. It isn't a bandaid, it's a standard way of getting the rear to stay where it's put. I was going to suggest it too when I read the OP.

You're about spot on RG. The only thing I'm not sure about is the part in the DA pull where the sear is lifted out of the way of the hooks first. If you listen during the DA pull, you will hear the sear slip over the half cock notch, so at this point the sear has not been contacted by the trigger bar. My understanding is that the DA break point needs to be set so it is just before the hammer rolls back enough for the sear to catch the hooks. By this point in trigger travel the trigger bar is beginning to bear on the sear - enough so it will clear the half cock notch once the shot breaks. If the DA is too advanced the sear may not be lifted yet, and the hammer will fall before really compressing the main spring, causing light strikes or no strikes if the sear catches the half cock. You would shorten the leg or wedge of the disco, effectively lowering the hooks to delay the DA break. If the DA is retarded, the gun could fall into SA mode (as in the sear could catch the hammer), and you would need to pull the trigger again for it to fire. Stoning the underside of the wings or ears would effectively raise their height and allow the DA to break sooner. The above I'm not 100% sure of though. You are right about the trigger bar being pushed down. If you look at the side profile of the trigger bar, it is ramped a bit on the top surface. The underside of the sear cage is also ramped. The interaction of these 2 surfaces causes the trigger bar to dive as it is pushed to the rear. When the slide cycles, the trigger bar ears that poke up past the top of the frame are depressed by the cycling slide (see the little cut outs on both slide rails that the ears rest in?) causing the trigger bar to be pushed even lower, out of contact with the sear. This allows the sear to reset. Try holding the trigger all the way to the rear and try to cock the hammer. It won't work as the TB is holding the sear up. Rack the slide and the TB is disengaged so the trigger resets. Lots of rambling there. Hope it makes sense.

I should note that my OAL numbers are for 9mm. I would be interested to hear how it goes. FWIW I gave up on TC projectiles after a very brief experiment with them as they never fed as smoothly as a RN or SWC.

That one was on the website, it's a .100" wide one that I was after and was told doesn't exist. Thanks Stuart.

Sorry to hear about the DQ. Hard way to learn a lesson but I'll bet the lesson sticks.

So I can get a 7.5mm height, 2.5mm wide front with a 1mm fibre Stuart? I asked cz custom about this front to pair with a HAJO but was told they didn't exist.

The cartridge needs to move along a "s" shaped path to be fed into the chamber (straight out of mag, turn up feed ramp, then turn down to enter chamber) and needs to do this in the distance allowed by the action length. If you imagine laying out a road in this shape, then trying to drive it without going over the lines, you can imagine it would be easier in a smart car than an estate wagon, and impossible in a bus. I hope this makes sense.

While it is not an accu, my shadow mate (based on orange model) came with a serrated front with 1mm fibre. My original shadow came with a non serrated 1.5mm fibre front, that has now been swapped to a Dawson .150x .90 with a 1mm fibre. When I was using the original front, I only put fibre in the forward hole in the site, so I would look through the empty fibre hole at the rear of the sight and still see a dot. This gave a comparable dot size to using a 1mm fibre.

Although the OP was about the slide stop spring. This is the first time I've heard of that breaking. Slide stops themselves will break eventually, although many get well into 5 figure round counts before they do.

Neomet, I was also thinking glock bulge or not sized enough, but the OP indicates he tracked the problem to excessive OAL if I understand correctly. Rounds would not pass a chamber check but are now passing with a shorter OAL.

Whew. I was hoping you wouldn't take offense professor. Cheers (on my phone so can't use smileys)

If they drop test at 1.140", then the throat isn't the problem. Mine would also drop in at 1.140", they just wouldn't feed reliably or shoot accurately until they were loaded under 1.100".

Disco lifts up? I hate to disagree with Atlas, but doesn't the sear cage cause the trigger bar to drop, slipping off the bottom of the wings and releasing the disco? I only make the distinction as this is important if you need to tune the DA break point.