PatJones Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Buy a Glock.I do own a Glock. SW revos are still my favorite guns as evidence by the fact the gun that resides in my nightstand is a 686+. It's just sad that their production and quality has degenerated to the point that it is an anomaly when you see a new gun with no glaring defects. Yep. buy a Glock. Listening to you whine about the same gun for 4(?) years is getting old.I have to second this notion. If you don't like a product you bought, sell it and buy something else.No one in the 1911 forum blinks an eye when they spend that much on a pistol and find it needs a bit of work. Can we lock this conversation and move on to something useful? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Buy a Glock.I do own a Glock. SW revos are still my favorite guns as evidence by the fact the gun that resides in my nightstand is a 686+. It's just sad that their production and quality has degenerated to the point that it is an anomaly when you see a new gun with no glaring defects. Yep. buy a Glock. Listening to you whine about the same gun for 4(?) years is getting old.I have to second this notion. If you don't like a product you bought, sell it and buy something else.No one in the 1911 forum blinks an eye when they spend that much on a pistol and find it needs a bit of work. Can we lock this conversation and move on to something useful? Your question that: Can we lock this conversation and move on to something useful? reflects your complete lack of understanding because this thread IS doing something useful. It is informing potential customers of chronic problems which makes them informed consumers. It also highlights SPECIFIC problems seen frequently on new SW revos which alerts them what to look for when examining a new gun they might buy. That means they won't end up writing one of these threads when they get stuck with a dog that should have never been shipped by SW. So, as I said, if you don't think such threads are useful, you are cordially invited to exit the thread if it offends you. And speaking of comments that are completely useless: If you don't like a product you bought, sell it and buy something else Is that really an intelligent suggestion? If you get a defective gun, sell it to some other sucker and make it his problem? Let's all keep quiet about the problem, take the "hit" on cost from buying a dog product and buy something else? How about we get SW to ship decent quality products which they are completely capable of doing? WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON A NEW SW: Just to summarize, here are the gross defects to look out for: 1) Barrel not straight. You can often just eyeball the "ribs" and see if they align with the frame, but another sure sign is if the rear sight is cranked all the way to one side of the other. 2) Drag marks on the sides of the hammer. 3) Forcing cone chewed up. Open the cylinder and inspect the end of the forcing cone for gouging with a file. Also check for the end being flat/square and not rounded off from filing. 4) Side plate not fitted. Run your finger around the seam where the side plate mates with the frame. I have seen plates so tight that the edge "ridges up" where it meets the frame. You don't want this. FEELER GAUGE CHECKS 5) Check barrel/cylinder gap. For a while, they were all running .010 - .012" with one I saw at .015. Best range is about .004" - .008" with a limit of about .010". 6) Check cylinder to breech face gap. Nominal range is about .062" - .064". Check all the way around (not just at the top) as some guns have spots which are not square. Edited February 10, 2015 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Is that really an intelligent suggestion? If you get a defective gun, sell it to some other sucker and make it his problem? Let's all keep quiet about the problem, take the "hit" on cost from buying a dog product and buy something else? How about we get SW to ship decent quality products which they are completely capable of doing? WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON A NEW SW: Just to summarize, here are the gross defects to look out for: 1) Barrel not straight. You can often just eyeball the "ribs" and see if they align with the frame, but another sure sign is if the rear sight is cranked all the way to one side of the other. 2) Drag marks on the sides of the hammer. 3) Forcing cone chewed up. Open the cylinder and inspect the end of the forcing cone for gouging with a file. Also check for the end being flat/square and not rounded off from filing. 4) Side plate not fitted. Run your finger around the seam where the side plate mates with the frame. I have seen plates so tight that the edge "ridges up" where it meets the frame. You don't want this. FEELER GAUGE CHECKS 5) Check barrel/cylinder gap. For a while, they were all running .010 - .012" with one I saw at .015. Best range is about .004" - .008" with a limit of about .010". 6) Check cylinder to breech face gap. Nominal range is about .062" - .064". Check all the way around (not just at the top) as some guns have spots which are not square. Loves to hear himself talk.... too bad he's the only one. Edited February 10, 2015 by Tom E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Is that really an intelligent suggestion? If you get a defective gun, sell it to some other sucker and make it his problem? Let's all keep quiet about the problem, take the "hit" on cost from buying a dog product and buy something else? How about we get SW to ship decent quality products which they are completely capable of doing? WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON A NEW SW: Just to summarize, here are the gross defects to look out for: 1) Barrel not straight. You can often just eyeball the "ribs" and see if they align with the frame, but another sure sign is if the rear sight is cranked all the way to one side of the other. 2) Drag marks on the sides of the hammer. 3) Forcing cone chewed up. Open the cylinder and inspect the end of the forcing cone for gouging with a file. Also check for the end being flat/square and not rounded off from filing. 4) Side plate not fitted. Run your finger around the seam where the side plate mates with the frame. I have seen plates so tight that the edge "ridges up" where it meets the frame. You don't want this. FEELER GAUGE CHECKS 5) Check barrel/cylinder gap. For a while, they were all running .010 - .012" with one I saw at .015. Best range is about .004" - .008" with a limit of about .010". 6) Check cylinder to breech face gap. Nominal range is about .062" - .064". Check all the way around (not just at the top) as some guns have spots which are not square. Loves to hear himself talk.... too bad he's the only one. So, you can't count? If I'm the only one, who started the thread? Forgot, you didn't read the thread. You might want to, contains a lot of good info: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=187688 Quote the OP: Barrel is not on straight. See how the sight doesn't line up with the barrel rib. Barrel is over clocked. If I'm "the only one", did I register under a different name to start the thread? And in another identity, I said: Over clocking the barrel is pretty common with Smith these days. I had a 625 JM that was so bad that you couldn't run the rear sight far enough to the left to get it on target. If I am the only one, I must have posted this too: My nib 627PC went back yesterday: hammer impacting frame below rear sight and out of time on three chambers. It looked like they crowned bbl with a dull knife - I took care of that with help from Brownells. I just hope the 929 isn't as disappointing. I said what I had to say. If your position is that we should all buy Glocks and sell the defective SW guns to other people (as stated in the above posts) I think that pretty much settles the issue. Edited February 10, 2015 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Wow. Just wow. This getting ridiculous. I don't have a horse in this race, (not a revo guy) but I do like to stay informed if a manufacturer is putting junk out. Most of my gun loving acquaintances come to me for advice before buying a gun, and most of them are not tinkerers and just assume well known companies are building quality guns. If I can warn them that the burrs on their new $1300 revo might draw blood when they take it out of the box for the first time then this thread has been worth it. And no one is being forced to read this either. Edited February 11, 2015 by TonytheTiger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhgtyre Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Okay, it looks like this thread needs a time out.A whole bunch of you need to check out the Guidelines for using this forum and pay special attention to the section that reads: AttitudePlease be polite. Or if not polite, at least respectful.No bickering. Regardless of the subject matter.Antagonistic, offensive, or quarrelsome tones are not acceptable.No trolling. No alternate accounts. You might also cast your glance towards this little nugget: Hate RantsRants involving shooters, firearms, or shooting related manufacturers, such as but not limited to - IPSC, IDPA, USPSA, Colt, Brownell's, Dillon, or Match Staff - are NOT PERMITTED. Brian's Forums is not the place to resolve customer service issues or disputes you may have with a manufacturer, dealer, gunsmith, or individual. We are here to help each other shoot better.If someone PM's me a valid reason to open this back up I will. Otherwise it is closed. -Larry DrakeThe Moderating Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts