550 Primer Bar

[tkheard]

OK, I must have done something dumb, but I don't know what it was. When I changed from the small primer bar after loading 9mm to large for 45ACP, I decided I should do the clean and polish thing before installing. Alcohol wiped the area and plastic and then polished the bottom of the primer bar with a scotchbrite. Installed it and it's horrible. The bar sticks so much that the return spring doesn't have enough oomph to pull it back. I had to use my left thumb to push it back past the sticky spot. I've got the bolts so loose that alignment with the hole in the ram sometimes doesn't match.

I thought about adding some lubricant (like graphite), but wasn't convinced that it wouldn't be worse.

What'd I do wrong or leave out? I'm stumped...

[CZinSC]

I used very fine sandpaper ( 1000 grit i think ) and it made it much worse. When I called Dillon then said never use anything more than green scotchbrite. Not sure what your issue is, but powder graphite might help. Don't go the sandpaper route...it will make it worse over time.

[Youngeyes]

Sounds like you have an issue with the rod, not the bar. Take the assembly apart and reassemble without the operating rod. Manually work the bar. If it's smooth then check the alignment of the rod.

[tkheard]

It's definitely not the rod. It falls free and can be a real pain. The suggestion of making sure the bar is free moving is where I'll start. It seemed so simple...

I'll post what I find.

[Bob DuBois]

Stop by the lock department at your local Hardware Store and pick up some Powdered Graphite. Best lube for the primer bar I've found. I'll clean the bottom of the bar with a fine flat file to remove any build up not trying to remove metal just the high spots.

If it starts to stick give it a little dusting of Graphite.

[Sarge]

I think the bar is bent. When I had the same problem I tried everything. I called Dillon and we went through everything I tried. The rep said the bar might be bent or twisted out of spec. Got a new bar and it was perfect.

Keep trying to troubleshoot but be aware that it may be the bar

[ffries61]

Another thing to check is the housing that the bar slides in, where the tapped holes are is kind of thin and can swell out a bit causing the bar to stick, had to hone mine flat, the high spots were easy to see, shiny from rubbing.

Fred

Edited September 6, 2013 by ffries61

[benos]

My usual 550 primer thread notes:

550 Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes:

• Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds)
• Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry.
• At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row.
• Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all.
• Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight!
• Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 1.125 - 1.220 inches.
• Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead.
• Be sure the plastic tips of all your Primer Pickup Tubes and the plastic tip on the bottom of the Priming Magazine are seated fully against the tubes.
• Grease the short end of the op-rod where it inserts into the bracket clamped around the primer shield.

[JaeOne3345]

I will probably be crucified for saying this. Everyone says to keep it dry, but to be honest, ever since I started spraying the bar with WD-40, I haven't had one issue again. Just be careful where you spray it (only on the bar and friction prone areas). I never have any issues with contamination, etc.

We wet lube and grease everything else that has metal to metal contact, so....

I never have to bend the rod or any of that stuff anymore. Nor do I have to leave the bolts loose as hell.

Edited September 7, 2013 by JaeOne3345

[kevinj308]

My usual 550 primer thread notes:

550 Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes:

• Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds)
• Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry.
• At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row.
• Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all.
• Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight!
• Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 1.125 - 1.220 inches.
• Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead.
• Be sure the plastic tips of all your Primer Pickup Tubes and the plastic tip on the bottom of the Priming Magazine are seated fully against the tubes.
• Grease the short end of the op-rod where it inserts into the bracket clamped around the primer shield.

If the slide moves freely without he rod attached then absolutey this^^^^^^. Bullet points 4 and 7 especially. Took me a while to actually understand the effect of the rod adjustment on the slide. It has to be square and low enough on the press to kick the slide out all the way.

[Sarge]

I will probably be crucified for saying this. Everyone says to keep it dry, but to be honest, ever since I started spraying the bar with WD-40, I haven't had one issue again. Just be careful where you spray it (only on the bar and friction prone areas). I never have any issues with contamination, etc.

We wet lube and grease everything else that has metal to metal contact, so....

I never have to bend the rod or any of that stuff anymore. Nor do I have to leave the bolts loose as hell.

Crucified?? On these forums??

Not a good idea to lube since it only attracts more gunky crap. Besides, the plate under the bar is teflon coated. It's meant to be run dry, and it should run dry as long as everything is correctly adjusted and nothing is fouled up.

[JaeOne3345]

I will probably be crucified for saying this. Everyone says to keep it dry, but to be honest, ever since I started spraying the bar with WD-40, I haven't had one issue again. Just be careful where you spray it (only on the bar and friction prone areas). I never have any issues with contamination, etc.

We wet lube and grease everything else that has metal to metal contact, so....

I never have to bend the rod or any of that stuff anymore. Nor do I have to leave the bolts loose as hell.

Crucified?? On these forums??

Not a good idea to lube since it only attracts more gunky crap. Besides, the plate under the bar is teflon coated. It's meant to be run dry, and it should run dry as long as everything is correctly adjusted and nothing is fouled up.

Its not hard to wipe any excess stuff off once in a while. I've heard that time and time again. Like I said, I always heard it, and followed it, messed with the rod, made sure the primer assembly screws weren't too tight, checked all Brian's tips. etc. Been there, done that. Would work for a few hundred perfectly, then need adjustment again.

Perhaps it needed a few new parts since the machine is old, but hey, a couple quick shots of wd40 fixed all my woes, regardless of what is recommended.

[tkheard]

First thing I did was to disconnect the Operating Rod so I could move the primer slide by hand. There were two sticky spots: one just forward of the primer pickup point (the worst) and the other about halfway through the travel of the primer slide. Pulled the bolts and found all sorts of grunge on the slide.

I cleaned all the crud up and re-polished the slide and track. Reassembled and it works like it's supposed to. Now all I have to do is figure out where the gunk came from.

Thanks for your suggestions. This really was pilot error.

[BASE772]

Another thing to check is the housing that the bar slides in, where the tapped holes are is kind of thin and can swell out a bit causing the bar to stick, had to hone mine flat, the high spots were easy to see, shiny from rubbing.

Fred

This^^

Tightening the two allen screws to tight will swell that part. I super fine file fixed mine.

Edited September 9, 2013 by BASE772