jcc7x7 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Been out of the revolver game for a while. Yes I've been "bottom feeding". I'm redeeming myself, bought a 625 JM to get back into it and now looking for a 38/357 to shot mostly in IDPA. So it has to be a 6 shot and fed with speed loaders. I'm a S&W fan but been out of the loop for a while so looking for opinions. The JM is nice but cause its new has the MIM parts which I didn't realize; but I'll repair / upgrade it as it needs it. Trying not to have to do the same with the 38/357. Would like to look for used to try and save a few bucks. Any suggestions and why you're suggesting would be a blessing. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 From my experience, if you find a 686 series 5 prelock in good condition is a great gun. Some series 6 have some problems. Old hammer mounted series is beautiful, but for may reason (replacement parts, no drill frame, no pinned front sight etc.), I prefer for competition the new style configuration. Anyway I have a 686-2 and shoot very well but is a secondary gun. Bye from Italy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 You've got several options in k and l frames, you'll just want to pick one with adjustable sights and a full length ejector rod. The most common SSR guns I've seen are 686 and 66. Parts for forged guns don't seem to be as plentiful as they once were, so that is a consideration. Or.... If you really dig n-frames and can get enough brass, 45autorim can be shot for SSR out of your 625. Speedloaders available at Bobmacs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 The MIM parts are perfectly fine. They tune up great. Don't worry too much about what the little old hens on the S&W Forum say--most of them never actually shoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Lots of options available in Smith K & L frames or Ruger GP & Security series. Started with an old DAO Ruger Service 6 I turned into a Speed 6. Cut the barrel to 3" and dovetailed a 1911 FO sight in it. Then got an old beater 686 I tuned up myself. Had the front sight milled off and installed the Wiegand base. So don't worry if you find an older K or L frame with a integral front sight. Working on a Model 15 right now. Find something reasonable and just start shooting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 The MIM parts are perfectly fine. They tune up great. Don't worry too much about what the little old hens on the S&W Forum say--most of them never actually shoot. It also seems like the MIM parts interchange without as much fuss as forged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerburgess Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I like my 4" 66 for IDPA I think it would be hard to beat a K frame for that game. but with that said I think you would be fine with any of the 4" guns from Smith or Ruger Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Tompkins Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 A local shooter ran a Ruger GP for a long time very well. He saw my 625JM, tried it liked it, bought one then went out and got a 686 SSR. He likes all of his wheel guns but seems to have a harder time getting the Ruger tuned up but did a lot of work on the S&W's him self and they run great. I don't shoot SSR very often so I run what I brung, a Taurus 669. Uses K-frame loaders and holsters. I like the k-frame size. But I like the N-frame 625 as well so... what do I know. Most every one I know runs a S&W of some flavor. Most of the regualr SSR shooters are running a 686 variant and we'll see a 66 once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcc7x7 Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thanks guys looks like not much has changed. 66 and 686 were the favorites 10 yrs ago Really do appreciate the input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I was running a 66 for about a year and found that the extra weight of the 686 kept the muzzle flip down for faster follow up shots. Sold the 66 off a few months ago and have been loving the 686. I don't notice a difference in the reloads. I fondled the 686 SSR and like it, but not $300-$400 worth of liking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirpy Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I am using a 686 that has been worked over and love it! Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 I was running a 66 for about a year and found that the extra weight of the 686 kept the muzzle flip down for faster follow up shots. Sold the 66 off a few months ago and have been loving the 686. I don't notice a difference in the reloads. I fondled the 686 SSR and like it, but not $300-$400 worth of liking it. If you know of a $300 686 SSR, I'm in for that purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbcman Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) I was running a 66 for about a year and found that the extra weight of the 686 kept the muzzle flip down for faster follow up shots. Sold the 66 off a few months ago and have been loving the 686. I don't notice a difference in the reloads. I fondled the 686 SSR and like it, but not $300-$400 worth of liking it. If you know of a $300 686 SSR, I'm in for that purchase. LOL! I think he meant that much over a standard 686....but if not, yeah, I'm game for a $400 SSR. Edited June 12, 2013 by sbcman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIPERONE Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I have a couple. First would be my K Frame. A Model 64 heavy barrel. It has been worked over by Ron Power. I have Green Sight Brite sight paint on the front sight. Hogue rubber grips, chamfered chambers, etc. I have a Lobo pancake holster for it. All the big boys seem to like kydex holsters. I use my leather concealed carry holster. I started with 10 Safariland Comp III speed loaders. I just switched the K Frame over to Jet Loaders. The K Jet Loader is enough smaller in diameter to help out some. I carry the Speed loaders in Big Creek carriers which I make myself. My newest SSR would be my 686-5. It again has been gone over by Ron Power. Cylinder & Slide Green Fiber Optic front sight. I just changed holsters from a Lobo Pancake to a Rocky Hill Pancake. Safariland Comp III speed loaders in Big Creek carriers. My ammunition choice would be 158 Round nose bullets over 5.0 grains of Unique, and Federal primers. I shoot a steel match every other month, and this load takes over steel well. Do not discount fixed sight K frames. I shoot my 64 a little better than I do my 686 so far. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 For the S&W fan you won't go wrong with the K-Frame 66 or the L-Frame 686 or their blued equivalents. As Viperone says "Do not discount fixed sight K frames." I use a 686 (my preference). For holster and speedloader pouch, I use Ready Tactical from Shooters Connection. My speedloaders are Safariland Comp III's and Comp II's (I just happen to have 15 of each). I have Bubba'd one of the III's to try and it works, so I have to do the remaining ones. For ammo, I load 4.3gr/TiteGroup under a 158gr Frontier Plated RN. It will take down steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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