1050 Shell Plate Roller Bearing

[gigs]

I sell them on my web site for considerably less than ebay. http://ballistictools.com/store/dillon-1050-bearing-kit

I'd post the part numbers if this was just us and it wasn't going into Google. Thing is the O-rings are packs of 100 minimum where I get them.

INA US made bearings in my kit.

Edit - Heh that's what I get for not reading the whole thread. As you all have already discovered, the bearing is 5909K43 at mcmaster. The O-ring is 9452K137 but it only comes in packs of 100. Those hard durometer rings would probably work fine, but they might be a hassle to get off if you ever need to take it off, since it is a snug fit.

Edited November 12, 2013 by gigs

[flutedchamber]

I have been following these kits on Ebay for a while, since I first saw them when searching for Dillon 1050 parts. While the needle bearing seems like a good idea at first, you should take into account the fact that the needle bearing is much harder than the lock ring or parent material that the press is constructed from. Over time the needles will wear tiny depressions most likely in the press frame, since the lock ring appears to be tempered to be made tougher.

I reload everything from 380 acp to 45-70 on my two 1050's with zero powder spillage problems. I don't use grease on the shell plate and lock ring area, I thoroughly clean the area with pure alcohol and treat all four surfaces ( bottom of lock ring, bottom or ram/press, top and bottom of shell plate) with Brownells Action Magic II.

Use this as directed and snug your shell plate down as usual, with just a whisper of drag and the press is smooth as silk. The Action Magic does not hold or attract dust and dirt.

I personally believe the bearing is a solution looking for a problem.

PS. The delrin ball idea may help a bit, but I have not had trouble with the steel ball.

[mikamarj]

The needle bearing is fitted between the shell plate and the large shell plate nut. So it will definitely not eat the press frame. In worst case it could eat the shellplate or the nut, but those are not too expensive to replace IF that would happen...

I have the bearing and the delrin ball in my RL1050 and I think it smoothed the press a bit, no more powder spillage even when running the press fast.

[Gregg K]

I finally got around to installing this modification in my 2 RL1050 presses. The addition of the bearing that is .078" thick causes the shell plate lock ring nut to hit the tool head so a modification is necessary. Most people are just grinding the lock ring screw heads down to get the clearance but I hate to half ass things on my press so I got access to a lathe and thinned the rings down by .078" so everything would work out the same. I took the material off the top of the ring which is more work than the bottom but I didn't want to change the ring where the bearing was going to ride. I was thinking that the surface may be hardened but after cutting the ring I don't think it would matter since the ring is really soft metal.

I ordered some of the hard o-rings that were listed in another post but they turned out to be too small and I returned them. I bought a pack of 5 silicone rings of the right size for a little over $2 and a pack of 20 regular rings for the same money to see which ones I liked better. The silicone rings were a really nice quality and 5 is more than enough to last me. Here are the links to Amazon for the silicone and black rubber ones I got. They will both work but the silicone ones are a little better quality. They are 1-13/16" ID, 2" OD, 3/32" Width

http://www.amazon.com/133-Silicone-O-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMYS92?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

http://www.amazon.com/133-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XX3NM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

The real trick to not have the shell plate snap into it's final position is to tighten the shell plate down really tight so that it just eases into place as the detent ball pops in. You can't get it tight enough and have it still work without the bearing.

Here is a picture of the modified lock ring before i cold blued it.

Edited March 28, 2016 by Gregg K