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Excellent Long Range Shooting video tutorial


Jman

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The effort to put this together is really something.

As a novice long range rifle shooter I have learned

much from this series. BRIGHT young man and an

interesting teaching style too. Hope you enjoy it as

much as I am.

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Didn't watch the whole first video...got tired of watching and listening to the shot go out and then someone say "hit".

Theres some good info out there and theres some very bad info out there.

Some schools teach you only to never go to that school for information again but usually you don't find that out until too late.

Its a lot like becoming a leader in the military....you're taught to trust your troops ...but verify.

If someone teaches you to do XYZ and you'll hit the target don't just take his/her word for it.

Go to the range with YOUR rifle and YOUR ammo and set up the range and test the info you were given and if it does not perform the way you were taught then perhaps the info you were given was incorrect.

In my many years behind the rifle both as a SWAT guy and as an instructor and competitor I saw and heard a metric butt ton of bad information....some of it being taught in what would be thought of as prestigious schools. I've seen crap info and crap equipment come to schools because of what a new guy believed from either some well meaning guy or someone purposely passing on bad stuff to make $.

Its like the joke from service rifle competition. The new shooter coming up to the line as he passes the old USMC Rifle Team veteran he asks "What'd you use for windage?" The vet replies " 3 minutes left."

The new shooter puts the correction on his rifle and shoots the stage. As hes coming off the line he sees the vet again and say angrily: "Hey ! I asked you what you used for wind and I did what you said and I was waaay out left of the bullseye!" and the vet replies "So was I."

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Didn't watch the whole first video...got tired of watching and listening to the shot go out and then someone say "hit".

Theres some good info out there and theres some very bad info out there.

Some schools teach you only to never go to that school for information again but usually you don't find that out until too late.

Its a lot like becoming a leader in the military....you're taught to trust your troops ...but verify.

If someone teaches you to do XYZ and you'll hit the target don't just take his/her word for it.

Go to the range with YOUR rifle and YOUR ammo and set up the range and test the info you were given and if it does not perform the way you were taught then perhaps the info you were given was incorrect.

In my many years behind the rifle both as a SWAT guy and as an instructor and competitor I saw and heard a metric butt ton of bad information....some of it being taught in what would be thought of as prestigious schools. I've seen crap info and crap equipment come to schools because of what a new guy believed from either some well meaning guy or someone purposely passing on bad stuff to make $.

Its like the joke from service rifle competition. The new shooter coming up to the line as he passes the old USMC Rifle Team veteran he asks "What'd you use for windage?" The vet replies " 3 minutes left."

The new shooter puts the correction on his rifle and shoots the stage. As hes coming off the line he sees the vet again and say angrily: "Hey ! I asked you what you used for wind and I did what you said and I was waaay out left of the bullseye!" and the vet replies "So was I."

Perfect!!!!

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Jman....ask 100 shooters of rifles what should be done to break in a rifles bore and its likely that you will get 100 different answers and no I'm not being sarcastic or kidding around.

I got tired of all the different methods so I went to 2 world class gunsmiths to ask their opinions on what to do.

One was distinguished when moses was coming down off the mountain and the other guy makes the sights sought after by many shooters and is the armorer for the Palma team.

Break in: Break in sucks.

It takes a long time and is freaking boring.

Bring other weapons with you to the range to shoot while you're waiting for the bore chemicals to do their work.

WHen you get the rifle BEFORE you fire it for the first time?

Clean it. You'll be surprised as to what comes out of that rifle.

Shoot one round. Clean it.

Do this for 5 rounds.

Shoot 3 rounds then clean it. Do this for 15 rounds and the rifle should be broken in during this procedure.

At some point during the process you will notice the bore becomes clean easier than before. Thats when it is now "magically" broken in.

Now it depends on the hardness of the barrel you have on your squirrel gun (Hart barrels are notorious for their accuracy but seem to have to be replaced more often Krieger less often, and theres a host of others) Depends on the caliber you shoot (.338 will be different than .308) the ammo you use (Reloads vs factory) chemicals you use to clean with (coming up) and other stuff....but by this time you should be done.

Now how often to clean and what to use.

Again 100 guys? 100 answers.

But this is what the 2 Obi-Wans told me and I adhered to it for many years as an LE sniper and competitor and they didn't steer me wrong....

"More rifles are damaged and need barrel replacement by improper/excessive cleaning than by anything else the shooter can do. I've seen a shooter make his bore look like it was cleaned with boxes of rocks and I saw one guy literally wear out the middle section of his bore all through improper or excessive cleaning."

Charlie Milazzo: " You buy the chemicals to clean the rifle right? Then give them time to do their job. I've seen guys punch their bore with a wet patch and then start scrubbing the bore with a brush like they're churning butter. Give the stuff a chance to work. It takes time and patience both of which our people here in the US don't seem to have anymore."

Charlie likes Hoppes also because its very benign and can be left in a bore overnight without damage to the rifle. You can punch the bore with a wet patch and go watch TV and literally forget you have a rifle cleaning in your gun room and go back to it the next day without worrying if you damaged it. Can't say that about other chemicals. You leave Sweets seven six two in a bore for several hours and you WILL fudge it up.

Patches: Use the right size patch for the bore . Hint...if you're straining against the cleaning rod like you're trying to move the mountain to Mohammed? Then you have too big a patch for the bore. You will cause the rod to bow in its middle and thats how you can damage the middle section of a barrel while the muzzle and chamber ends will be relatively undamaged. Keep a set of shears (I use old EMT shears used to cut clothes off victims) and cut the patches in half if you have too. You want them to go through the bore snug but without having to muscle the cleaning rod .

Oh and the rod will be a ONE PIECE ROD. Do NOT use sectional cleaning rods on a precision rifle. The sections never line up perfectly and the rifling in the barrel will suffer. Get a quality one (Dewy, Bore Stix etc...) and keep it from damage by keeping it in a PVC tube. One end cap and glue and the other get a screw cap on it and keep your cleaning rods inside it to keep them from getting damaged.

USE ONLY BRONZE BRISTLE BRUSHES on your precision rifle. Using the steel core ones WILL damage your rifle.

Steel bristle brushes? I saw cut off sections of a barrel that a customer of Charlie's had "killed" using a steel bristle brush on his rifle because he was "trying to get it REALLY clean".

I rarely use ANY brush on my bores anymore. I punch with 2 wet patches and then LEAVE the rifle alone for the chemicals to work their magic. If after doing this a couple times the bore is still not clean then I may brush the bore a few times before punching it with 2 wet patches again. But rarely do I have to do that unless I shoot a LOT during a range session.

After all the powder fouling is out then I use Sweets 7-6-2 to remove the copper fouling. FIrst I blast the bore with gun scrubber to get out the prior chemicals (NEVER COMBINE CHEMICALS or follow up one with another without gun scrubbering your bore or they can form a "new" chemical than can and will etch your rifling in your bore)

Punch with a patch soaked with Sweets and then wait about 10 minutes then patch it out followed by gun scrubber blasts and patches with G.S. on them until you're satisfied the fouling is out.

USE A BORE GUIDE. I use one from Sinclair International that I am very happy with. It has a "solvent port" so you can place it into the rifle and then get your rod and patch positioned and then pour a little solvent on it without it going all over your rifles action etc...

How often to clean? From Al Warner: "If you're going to shoot again the next day then leave it alone unless you shot say over 100-120 rounds. Then I'd punch the bore...otherwise I'd let it alone until after shooting was done on the second day and then give it a good cleaning.

If you're going to leave the rifle alone without shooting it for 5 days or longer? Then I'd clean it 'cos the dirt in the bore can attract water and other stuff and start to rust/break down the bore."

Now Al was speaking from the competitor side of things. When I worked as an LEO sniper we kept our rifles in the truly only repeatable condition which is cold, clean, and dry. Clean the weapon and then blast out the bore from the chamber end with gun scrubber and let the stuff run out the muzzle end. This way the rifle was in its condition for the cold bore shot which for an LEO sniper is the $ shot.

I'd type more but my better half is calling me and as well all know shes the "real boss" !

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Awesome videos, I like how he explains things in a way that give you a foundation to learn for yourself.

Agreed. A unique guide to understanding.

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I am glad the series is finding an audience. Again, the effort alone is admirable. It is what it is. A 101, an introduction and tutorial to extreme long distance shooting.

And for the price, I have found nothing on the web that compares. Tibo is a different dude...weirdly smart and fun to learn from. IMO.....

Shreds a guitar too.

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