bomadera Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 I've got a CZ Custom Shadow T on order, I'm familiar with 1911's, are CZ's much different to work on? Do I need a manual to completely strip the gun? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer377 Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 Nope. Pretty easy in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beltjones Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 Compared to a Glock where everything is plug-and-play they're difficult to work on. They are similar to 1911s in that certain parts need to be properly fitted to work. For example, the barrel, thumb safety, etc need to be fitted. However, the extractor, slide stop, and other parts that you will actually need to replace are drop-in. There are a lot of very tiny springs that can be annoying to work with - that's about the worst part for me so far. Otherwise it's pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC1 Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 You tube will tell you all you need if you have questions when you get it. Extractor removal is different but not difficult and needs done every 5k or so. Again, you tube will show you how and you'll be proficient in about 3 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe L Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Cajun Gun Works (CGW) makes a sear with a set screw in it that eliminates hand fitting the safety. CGW can also supply a trigger pivot pin that is reusable and is easily removed/installed. On a regular CZ-75B, you will need to take the sear cage apart the first time inside a baggie and look for the firing pin safety lever spring when you push the sear pan out. Not a problem with the Shadow, however. You will need to make a short temporary sear pin to hold the sear spring in place when putting the sear back in the cage. Yes, first time, a CZ is more complicated, especially a non-Shadow version. Decocker version is worse, I'm told. Shadow won't be bad at all, just different. Made my SIGs look easy. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassmankai Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 As with anything involving small parts it takes a little patience, however, in my experience it's not too difficult. Also, there's a wealth of info on youtube about taking apart the sear cage and removing the firing pin assembly. Look up P foma, he has a very in depth video on taking them down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huskerlrrp Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 To fit the safety, you can easily see the areas that need relieved vs. a 1911 where I have to use dykem to find the contact file/repeat. The CZs do have some small springs and detents that are easy to lose (I've learned to keep a few extras around) and you use a punch more frequently to tear down vs. a 1911. You don't need many of the specialized tools for the 1911 either (plunger crimp tool, front sight crimp for mil spec, etc.). I think if you've worked on 1911 it should come pretty easily. Check out the CZ Forums Gunsmith section.... http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?board=40.0 Good luck in your endeavors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.E.Anglin Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 The trigger and return spring combo can be a pain, I made a smaller pin that I can just push in first, before driving in the factory pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daybreak Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Well, they're not easy. They're not too hard though. The trigger pin/spring can be a real pain in the butt. I recommend making a slave pin, which is a life saver. The red straws that come with air compressors are the perfect size, that's what I use as a slave pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee G Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 The trigger and return spring combo can be a pain, I made a smaller pin that I can just push in first, before driving in the factory pin Just use The hammer retaining pin as a slave pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhandhali Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 The trigger and return spring combo can be a pain, I made a smaller pin that I can just push in first, before driving in the factory pin Just use The hammer retaining pin as a slave pin. I ended up just clipping off a little bit of a paperclip and it worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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