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Anyone have experience with Loctite 290?


Sleepswithdogs

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290 Green goes on after assembly to seal and lock threads. Looks like an interesting product but I haven't tried it. Anyone use this stuff?

Thanks in advance,

Tar

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™

Nut and Bolt Locker

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for dis-assembly.

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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290 Green goes on after assembly to seal and lock threads. Looks like an interesting product but I haven't tried it. Anyone use this stuff?

Thanks in advance,

Tar

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™

Nut and Bolt Locker

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for dis-assembly.

Basic lowdown on loctite:

blue-can be easily unscrewed

Red-a beech, but you can loosen the screw

green-gonna take some heat and muscle, but they will come loose

black-faggittabbooutit

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290 Green goes on after assembly to seal and lock threads. Looks like an interesting product but I haven't tried it. Anyone use this stuff?

Thanks in advance,

Tar

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™

Nut and Bolt Locker

Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Due to it's low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. Loctite® Threadlocker Green 290™ cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It prevents loosening from shock and vibration and leakage from shock and vibration and protects threads from rust and corrosion. The product can also be used to fill porosity in welds, casting and powder metal parts. Localized heating and hand tools are needed for dis-assembly.

Basic lowdown on loctite:

blue-can be easily unscrewed

Red-a beech, but you can loosen the screw

green-gonna take some heat and muscle, but they will come loose

black-faggittabbooutit

Always used Red, but was looking at Green. Is is similar but you don't have to disassemble to use it? How's it with oily parts?

Thanks,

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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I have used it in a sleeving situation ( no threads ) it was so permanent i had to destroy one side to get it apart.

+1. Green is what comes with the Uniquetek Micrometer Powder Bar. Works great for non-threaded application, but is all but permanent. Serious heat and effort is required to remove.

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You guys are getting some products confused.

The green thread locker, 290 is a penetrating product designed for use after threaded parts are assembled. shouldn't be super difficult to disassemble. Works well.

Retaining compounds are a whole different sorry. These are also green, but their numbers are all in the 600's. These are designed for holding lose bearings in place and are very strong: as in, get the blue wrench out to disassemble.

Probably no place that you need retaining compound on a pistol .

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

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We use 290 on many small fasteners used in our optics and for securing front sights. Most of the Loctite products do not work with contaminants such as oil/grease. The cleaner the surfaces the better the adhesion. Using Loctitie activators enhance cure time and strength of the bond. However, I hardly ever use them unless I'm having difficulty with a particular joint. Use some acetone and clean the threads on both sides and apply. You should be good to go.

Since starting to use 290 it has become one of my favorites for scope ring screws, front sights, etc.

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We use 290 on many small fasteners used in our optics and for securing front sights. Most of the Loctite products do not work with contaminants such as oil/grease. The cleaner the surfaces the better the adhesion. Using Loctitie activators enhance cure time and strength of the bond. However, I hardly ever use them unless I'm having difficulty with a particular joint. Use some acetone and clean the threads on both sides and apply. You should be good to go.

Since starting to use 290 it has become one of my favorites for scope ring screws, front sights, etc.

Does the 290 require cleaning, or is it just a better bond if you clean before application.

Thanks,

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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My gunsmith recommended 290 to me for sight installation. The idea is to be able to move the sight in the dovetail to get a good zero, then use penetrating green Loc-tite afterwards to glue it in place. Seems to work well. I haven't had to remove it yet, though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A little late on the response here, but I WOULD NOT use 290 unless it was in an area where heat can be applied and there is no chance of stripping out the head of the screw (like an Allen Head Screw).

I attended a Loctite Seminar put on for our company (when I had a real job), and they had us put 290 on a 3/8 bolt. Then they had us try to remove the nut after everything had dried. The nut broke loose super easy, then bound up tighter than you could imagine. It was not possible to turn the nut in either direction after that. If you look at the specs, the break away torque is really low, but the removal torque is very high.

I would avoid 290 for small screws that you ever want to get apart and can't put heat on.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ended up buying the blue Locktite, but oh my, the last time I bought locktite there was 5 or 6 times more product, and it was 1/3 the cost!!!!! :surprise:

Yeah, it's good stuff, but not cheap. Thankfully, even with regular use, even the relatively small tubes should last quite a long time. I've had my bottle of blue for years and I use it on everything. It only takes a drop or two for just about any threaded projects and around four for a rear sight.

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I had a bottle of red I used for years also, guess that's one reason the price has gone up so high. Not big profit in making an inexpensive product that works great and a bottle lasts for years.

I have always used red, nothing but red, on auto and motorcycle applications. Never had a prob getting anything coated with red apart. Gun parts are much smaller and so I guess the need for blue.

Tar

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We use 290 on many small fasteners used in our optics and for securing front sights. Most of the Loctite products do not work with contaminants such as oil/grease. The cleaner the surfaces the better the adhesion. Using Loctitie activators enhance cure time and strength of the bond. However, I hardly ever use them unless I'm having difficulty with a particular joint. Use some acetone and clean the threads on both sides and apply. You should be good to go.

Since starting to use 290 it has become one of my favorites for scope ring screws, front sights, etc.

Does the 290 require cleaning, or is it just a better bond if you clean before application.

Thanks,

Tar

All the loctites require cleaning if you want them to work properly. An "Easy Removal" product on oily threads would do very little, in my experience.

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