njd

The Devil wants me to declare all barrels soft-cover, but not until after I have filled them with sand

I use the RT1200 trimmer w/ .223 dies on all sorts of .223 / 5.56 brass - mostly Lake City. I do NOT re-size the cases first - the trim die does that. I use a Dillon case gage to set the die and One-Shot to lube. I have not yet stuck a case. You may have a bad die...

Because of spring pressure, the detent ball under the shellplate 'lifts' the shell plate right next to station 2. This causes an increase in the clearance available between the bottom of the shellplate and the shellplate platform in this area. This increased clearance can be sufficient to allow a case to tip when near station 2, especially a tall skinny one like .223 A possible fix: Tighten the center bolt that holds shell holder plate. Don't forget to loosen the locking set-screw in the side of the ram. If that 'straightens up' your cartridge, but makes it too hard to advance the shell plate... Remove shell plate and take out the detent ball (use a magnet to get the ball out). Replace shell plate. If you can get the cartridge straight -and- the shellplate loose enough to turn easily -at the same time- start clipping small sections of coils off of the detent ball spring until you get the detent ball spring tension 'just right'. You may want to have a spare spring before starting this project. You may be able to find a similar spring at a decent hardware store to start out with.

I use a 550B with a casefeeder for .223 Clean in vibratory machine. Lube w/ 1-Shot 1st toolhead: Universal decapper in Station 1 1200 trimmer / resize in Station 3 Run through wet-tumbler now that primers are out (this also cleans up any burrs from trimming) Sort for defects / headstamp / crimped primer pockets Swage primer pockets if needed 2nd Toolhead: Normal size die backed out in Station 1 - clears flash-hole and neck expands, does not re-size. Powder drop in 2 Redding Competition seater in 3 Crimp in 4 There are threads here on adapting the 550B case feeder to feed 223 cases (casefeed is a huge timesaver).

Yes, exactly. I have tens of thousands of cases to trim before I need to figure out which insert is the proper replacement.

^^^ This ^^^ @ DirtyRod ("I've found that making sure the lower block is properly adjusted helps a great deal in getting the Swage rod centered.") I had a slight issue with getting the case (primer pocket actually) centered relative to the swage die. To fix that I drilled a ~3/8" hole in a piece of soft plastic (1/4" thick polyethylene), cut it into a square that fit in the SS600 next to the adjustable block, then cut the square in half to make a u-shaped cradle for the case to nestle in. Check that the block still touches the case though. All cases get centered auto-magically This block is just jammed in the SS600 - friction holds it just fine.

Redding

Like you, I decap in 1 and trim (and full-length resize) in 3 with my 'trimmer' toolhead. I lube with One-Shot and leave it on the case. (oh Jeez - not this again) Remove primer crimp off the press. The Dillon tool is really nice. I have used others (CH Tool and Die). I then run a regular size / decap / expander die in station 1 in my second 'reloading' tool head. Die is set so it never actually resizes the case, just expands the neck and clears the flash hole. You could run an 'M die' if you weren't worried about the flash hole. M-Die example My RL-550 has a Dillon casefeeder with the 'adaptation' to .223 - really speeds this operation up. That thread is here.

There is a sliding tab at the exit to the feeder tub - did that get bumped while cleaning? This tab, if too far closed, would only stop the cases that are coming at it case-mouth first (unless closed really far). The cases that didn't drop would just keep going around and around. This would prevent any cases that happened to want to fall in the plate base-first from getting picked up. Here is a picture of the tab from a post about getting rifle casefeed working on RL550B's - ignore the 3/4" instruction (experiment with that dimension): Wait for Arizona to wake-up and call Dillon?

Please - not the bunnies!!

Optics are probably the best, here is what I would use if I had a Roadblocker (shown on an M1 Carbine though...) If done right, you might even be able to fit the chainsaw grip on there too.

I have an MGM SwitchView for the Meopta Meostar on one MTAC - fits and works fine. My other MTAC wears a fishing reel holder that works good too. $23.29 shipped (for TWO) I use the NC-1 model One thing about the fishing gear - if / when the lever hits the edge of a dump barrel it is unlikely the scope will be damaged The picture below is close, but not exactly what you get - on the NC1 there is a plastic flange 'inside' the flange the nut pushes on. This inner piece engages quite positively with the knurl on the MTAC zoom ring. After installing I cut off the extra 'tails' flush with the nut - there are plenty of threads left to get it back off and on.

Saw thread title - thought "He's using Varget". Ask me how I knew...

Case gage much?

In my Glock 17 there is absolutely no problem at all with Montana Gold 124gr JHP. I have run them at COL's of 1.080" to 1.130". The longer ones have caused live-round-extraction problems with one AR barrel of mine but no problems in the Glock.

Some feel that with **Jacketed** HPs, since the base is formed first it is a more consistent shape and this allows for more stable flight. This is not a valid point with **Plated** bullets. With HPs that have a defined shoulder (see pic below) there is a longer bearing surface to engage the rifling and it is felt that this allows for more stable flight (as compared to the same weight round-nose bullet with significant secant ogive - refer to a reloading manual, note cartridge-overall-length differences for these two shapes - difference in C-O-L is to keep the HP's shoulder out of the leade / rifling). As 'superdude' pointed out, things that "allow for more stable flight" are good things.

You could build your own: Synthetic stock Waterfowler from Bud's ($468.00) Send to a 'smith to take it down to ~22" and re-thread (which gets rid of the porting too). ($125.00) Magazine extension tube from Nordic gives you a mag tube that is 8 +1 and flush to the end of the barrel, add a Nordic clamp too. ($80.00 + $32.00) 45 minutes with a sharp 1/2 round file opened the loading port up (cut off the back 1/2' or so of the forearm too). ($6.00) Total $711.00 plus some shipping. VS $599.00 for the unobtanium JM Pro as described above from different retailers which also includes: Trigger over-travel stop. Stainless gas system parts (this is really nice). Oversize bolt handle. Oversize safety. Orange mag follower. Free shipping ? Pick your deal (you can see why these are going faster than Mossberg can build them)!

I considered the green wicking 'Threadlocker' an essential item in my motorcycle tool kit. Put the sh!t on everything!

The third shooter I ever ran as an RO swept his hand holstering at LAMR - he was new and got a talking to about it but no DQ then. The DQ came 10 seconds later when he broke the 180 reloading

I think arbitration would be the final word on this too.

Steelers Fan - serves him right

Federal Non-Toxic (Headstamp = FC NT 9MM LUGER) has a slight crimp that drives me, and my RL550, nuts when it shows up. CBC headstamp brass (Brazilian / Magtech) has very thick walls. Reloaded with 124gr JHP Montana Golds it has to go a second time through the sizer to case gage. As made, the case diameter at the base of the seated bullet is 0.385" A second trip through a RCBS carbide sizer knocks it down to 0.375" I am going to see if I can replace my crimp die with the RCBS sizer die on my 550 as I have a fair amount of this brass. Need to try it then see what accuracy testing and the chronograph tells me. Interesting read over at a Reloading Blog has reviews about the reloadability of various headstamps of 9mm brass. Pack a lunch, long article. ***Yes - this guy (headstampfinebrass) is selling brass. I don't work there, have never bought or used his brass and he hasn't paid me to shill his site. ***Just pointing out some info of interest to reloaders.

See this thread: www DOT mossbergowners DOT com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=906&sid=d8e556276ca491b282b3efeff625745f 1/2 way down the first page is the info you want (covers all Nordic tubes for the 930). Keep in mind Nordic offers 3 different length end caps to fine-tune final length. Can't post links - you'll have to cut, paste and edit - sorry

My 930 (Waterfowl bought ~Aug, 2011) gouged my mag tube also. I took a sharp 6" half-round and smoothed out the sharp corner of the (blue) spring that was doing the gouging. Took a while as there is not room to get much of a 'stroke' on the file. Been fine ever since.

Just to be clear: You assembled it without the follower, and measured the spring extending out of the loading port. Got it thanks. Vince Actually, everything is assembled except I leave the +4 extension end cap off. Drop in follower followed by spring, trim spring, screw on end cap. I will probably not LocTite the end cap on - I'm going to try a tiny amount of some thick anti-sieze paste first.