EricW Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 What should one look for in a free float handguard for an AR? Does it really need to be vented? Are certain brands/models preferrable to others? Do I need to worry about heat dissipation? Will a solid aluminum tube get too hot? (I'm just need a round handguard. No need for rails or to mount anything but a sling swivel.) Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lycanthrope Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 If you bump fire three mags some handguards can be too hot to handle. even if floated. My FIRSH will handle will start to get hot with 90 rapid fire rounds. Most aluminum guards get hot after sustained fire. If you want cool, go carbon fiber.....or buy a glove! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry White Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 If its alum it really needs to be vented, when I was useing alum mine would get too hot in 40 rds, Im useing carbon fiber now and like it much better, cooler and 6or 8 oz lighter. Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uscbigdawg Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 EricW, For matches, it doesn't really matter to much more than personal preference. Yes, after 40-50 rounds of CONTINUOUS, RAPID fire, the aluminum handguards CAN get warm, but not terribly. The carbon fiber ones dissipate heat better. My suggestion is go with what fits what you're looking for. The Hogue's are neat 'cause of the overmolding, the JP's are cool, the Clark & Briley carbon fiber ones are nice too. For the bare bones model, there's the DPMS, fluted non-vented (which I have laying around and you're welcome to for a VERY cheap price...replaced it with a JP for CDI factor ). Hope that helps. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak Smith Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 PRI makes a really nice carbon fiber tube, which is as light or lighter than the JP tube. -z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 I have both ends of the spectrum. I have an older AR that has a thick solid aluminum handguard with almost no ventilation. If you run a thirty round hoser stage with that upper you would need a batting glove just to be able to hang onto it (I wonder if that is why some folks actually use vertical foregrip attachments?). That’s what I used to shoot, now I have a JP CTR-02 upper with the super lightweight, totally slotted aluminum handguard and it ran stage after stage at several MGM IronMan 3 guns without getting warm enough to notice. My old heavy handguard would have required a catchers mitt to hold onto after some of those stages. Moral of the story, get a thin, heavily vented one if it’s gonna be aluminum, or get a carbon fiber. I would go aluminum because it will shed heat fast too and I would get the JP, because it’s like swiss cheese, but there are other good ones to choose from. I do remember checking out an AR that had a CF tube and it was a lot warmer to the touch than my JP tube after both had been sitting in the sun for the same amount of time. -- Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 I have a carbon fiber handguard. I don't know if it is a Clark or Briley (they may be one in the same). It may be slightly cooler than aluminum. But carbon fiber can still get quite hot to the touch. So don't expect to torch of a 30 rounder quickly and expect it to be cool to the touch. Furthermore, carbon fiber is not as rigid as the aluminum handguards and it's attachment to the barrel nut (or whatever you call it) is bush league --- it's glued on. Though it probably doesn't mean squat, but I believe the flexing of the carbon fiber handguard isn't optimal. If you use a sling, the increase flexing means that the tension can vary. If you use a bipod, the flexing may cause a bouncier sight picture. I know you say right now that you won't be attaching rails to it... but hey you might want to in the future. An aluminum handguard gives you the option of using the tube as the "nut". You can't thread a carbon fiber handguard and expect it to hold --- you gotta use a separate nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stingerjg Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 I have used both alum and carbon fiber in 3 gun. The carbon is an excellent choice for Limited/ Tactical class where a bipod can not be used. For Open class i use a 2piece alum handguard from F A ENTERPRISES If i get time later ill post a pic of my alum hanguard. For now here is my Limited set up. With a CLARK CARBON FIBER HANDGUARD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTOSHootr Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 EricW, Check out Yankee Hill Machine's "Customizable Tube Forearm". They make stuff for Bushmaster. I don't have much to compare it to but I really like mine. https://secure.valinet.com/~yankeeh/cgi-bin...d=2824787_19156 Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak Smith Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 Here's the PRI tube. You can get it without the rails. It uses an Armalite "T" style barrel nut (included), but they have the option for an aluminum barrel nut to save some weight. -z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 Are there any that can be installed without removing the front sight base? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 EricW, try and pick up as many different ones as you can to see how they feel in YOUR hands. There are different diameter tubes so see which fits you the best. Some are small enough that if you have a weaver gas block the tube will hit on the last 1/4 inch of the sight base. I've used alum. exclusively and have had no problems after shooting 40 rnds. on 90 to 100 degree days. LOL Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted August 9, 2004 Author Share Posted August 9, 2004 Zak, I hate to ask, but did you really pay...(GASP!)...$320 for your PRI forend? I looked at them last night and about needed a jumpstart after I saw the price. Is there something in particular that makes them that much better than the $100 Clark model? =========================== USC... Email me about your tube. I'll probably buy it. If for no other reason than to see if it fixes my zero shift problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak Smith Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 Eh, it came on my upper. I did shell out the asking price for their AR10 tube. There aren't a lot of good choices in AR10 tubes. I haven't seen the Clark model, so I can't compare the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 The JP Aluminum Handguards are $149 but worth every penny for how light they are and how cool they stay. The JP stays real cool because it’s basically a piece of real thin swiss cheese. Scott Medesha makes some lightweight slotted aluminum ones, but they are biased for High Power attachments. You will have to take the gas block off to get any one piece tube and it’s barrel nut system on anyway, so you might as well put in a new gas tube while you are at it. I advise a thin aluminum one with more air than metal because it’s all about airflow and the CF ones don’t allow much of that unless you were to mount a muffin fan to it -- Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Religious Shooter Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 I hate to ask, but did you really pay...(GASP!)...$320 for your PRI forend? I looked at them last night and about needed a jumpstart after I saw the price. Is there something in particular that makes them that much better than the $100 Clark model? The PRI Mounts HG is certified ninja equipment. It's ventilated, it's advertised as being one of the most rigid (?) handguards out there and it has the ability to take rails. It's more in line with the other real world tactical handguards like the ARMS SIR ($400.00). I believe its standard equipment for the Army's SPR. In addition to the handguards mentioned above, you may want to consider the Fulton Armory Phantom II. It may be a repackaged YHM. But anyways it's ventilated and it's rail capable for future expansion. (These things were $80 just a couple of weeks ago .) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 Eric, You may want to wrap your hand around the comfortable rubber insert grip that Hogue offers on their aluminum free float tube. Availabe from Brownells for under $60.00. Not only does it have heat insulating qualities but can be helpful when looking for traction for a steady shot. Another option is an NRA service rifle legal free float handgard. Looks just like stock (as per service rifle rules) but IS a true free float affair. Again affords heat protection but lacks in Gee Wiz factor (just like me). PK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kellyn Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 Venting equals I have rifles with the JP handguard, a Medesha TAWS handguard and an Accuracy Speaks handguard with Derrick vented. The JP is the most versatile as it's set up with adjustable sling swivels and you can get add-on attachments to mount just about anything on there including flashlights, dots, reserve iron sights. The Medesha TAWS handguard is trick as well but it's more setup for a tactical rifle and does not easily mount a secondary optic/sight. It does have the coolest swiss cheese venting. The Accuracy Speaks is the most plain jane but the cheapest. It has no standard accessories like the JP. Mine has a Weaver rail for a dot, sling swivels for a ching sling, and venting, but all of that was extra. I actually like the feel of this handguard the best as it's a bit wider. Lots of good shooters use fiberglass handguard but I never warmed up to them. I think it's just b/c I started with Aluminum ones. I don't like the military style handguards with the rails at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock for competition. The angle of the rails is not correct for the mounting of a secondary sight which should usuallly be placed at 1-2 o'clock on the handguard. I also prefer a round contour to square. Vive le difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zak Smith Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 Couple more notes on the PRI handguard. The rails are removable, and removing them lightens it up quite a bit. Adding a rail at 1:30'o'clock would just be a matter of drilling two holes like the other holes through it. I do like the JP tube- got it on two rifles. -z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nik Habicht Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 The JP tube comes in two different diameters. If you choose the smaller diameter guard be careful when grabbing the rifle by the handguard after firing --- if you grab it close to the receiver it's possible to make part of your finger contact the gas tube --- I have the second degree burn experience to prove it. Thank god it was summer time and there was cooler filled with half melted ice nearby..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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