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Trigger reset issues.


RRR70

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G22 Gen2, trigger is a Chalenger drop-in from glocktriggers. Once in a while trigger doesn't reset after shot fired. Does the same when dry firing and cycling manually. Talked to the guy from the company and he said to send it in. Have a match coming up this Sunday so I won't get it back in time.

Any ideas what's could be an issue?

Much appreciated.

Roman.

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If you are running a light striker spring and a heavey trigger spring the trigger will not always reset.

You need to take out the trigger spring and put a factory trigger spring in or run a factory striker spring.

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If you are running a light striker spring and a heavey trigger spring the trigger will not always reset.

You need to take out the trigger spring and put a factory trigger spring in or run a factory striker spring.

This or a bad connector.

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Are you running any lube on the connector/triggerbar? Had occasional issues of trigger not

resetting when I used slide-glide light. Darned stuff has enough film strength to keep

the trigger bar from popping up.

Cleaned it and put on a drop of really light oil. Smooth and reset every time.

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I'm using drop in kit with all the springs that come with it. Changed connector. Same issue. Pulled drop in kit from G17 and installed it in G22. Same issues. I'm gonna put all original stuff back in tomorrow and see what's up.

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I had this issue recently, the cruciform shape on the trigger bar was rubbing against the plastic trigger housing on the reset. I filed this down and this fixed the issue. After the trigger bar dropped it would not return, it could not ride up the ramp to reset. This was happening with a extra power trigger spring, when I went back to stock problem went away. For some reason the cruciform would not get over the ramp with the extra power trigger spring. After filing everything is good to go. I'm running the 4.5 striker spring, extra power trigger spring, lightened safety spring, Jaeger striker, wolf 14" recoil spring. When I say filed I mean it only took a few swipes, but this is something to look for.

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I had this issue recently, the cruciform shape on the trigger bar was rubbing against the plastic trigger housing on the reset. I filed this down and this fixed the issue. After the trigger bar dropped it would not return, it could not ride up the ramp to reset. This was happening with a extra power trigger spring, when I went back to stock problem went away. For some reason the cruciform would not get over the ramp with the extra power trigger spring. After filing everything is good to go. I'm running the 4.5 striker spring, extra power trigger spring, lightened safety spring, Jaeger striker, wolf 14" recoil spring. When I say filed I mean it only took a few swipes, but this is something to look for.

Can you post a pic with the area you filed? Thank you.

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On the connector side of the ejector housing, I use an Xacto blade and break the edges off the top, what happens is the cruciform gets hung up on the area that it needs to ride on to return fully. My setup is a Glockworx spring kit, with a lightened striker. Returns with a nice "click" 2 1/2 lb. pull. I do this will all my Glocks.

Use the blade & drag it along the edges, don't dig in or you might create a burr. Just follow the contour, doesn't look important but it can really give you a gritty feel if you don't do it right. If you want it really smooth, polish & break the edges on the trigger bar cruciform that runs on this path too. Get a small vise lightly clamp the trigger bar in there & get some fine sandpaper maybe 600 grit, cut it in to 1/2" strips then fold it half, shoeshine the whole cruciform area withe the exception of where it engages the striker leg. Once your done, Flitz the whole thing. Takes a little longer but, it will really smooth out the trigger.

You don't feel all these imperfections with stock springs since your trigger finger is feeling the spring's compression, once you use lighter ones, the imperfections will really stand out.

post-25308-0-70336500-1344520431_thumb.j

post-25308-0-01311600-1344520452_thumb.j

post-25308-0-87946700-1344520476_thumb.j

Edited by Glockman1000
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I don't know how to do pictures but Glockman1000 hit it perfect. Follow his directions. I used a file but tonight I will try the exacto knife trick just to smooth it out a little better. With the slide off the gun and the trigger held to the rear take hold of the safety plunger hump on the trigger bar and try to move the trigger bar forward you will see where the cruciform tries to ride up on the connector side of the ejector assy. This is where you take off the material.

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Continued

Step7.jpg

Step8.jpg

A few things to add, I use a Glockworx Competition spring kit, Glockworx V4 Connector & factory striker. This is for my Open Glock so I wanted as light as I could go. I've used Glocks for so long that I tried my friends Fulcrum set up & it didn't appeal to me. So far I've used Winchester & Magtech primers in my loads with no light strikes(fingers crossed) & a box of American Eagle 9mm I had sitting around. I can't get Federal primers so I use what I can get my hands on.

The trigger in this pistol is from a Gen 2 that has a nice flat cruciform area. With this trigger I am able to get under a 3lb. pull. I tried getting the Gen 3 trigger down to that weight but the lowest I can get them down to is about 3 1/2lbs. I compared the two versions & the Gen 2 is flat while the Gen 3 has what looks like a raised area on the "wings" of the cruciform. I don't know if that is what gives the higher pull, but what I observed.

Anyhow, if someone has a Gen 2 trigger that they want to sell or trade for a Gen 3. Drop me a line! :ph34r:

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