Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 There have been several posts about what to do to set up a FN SLP Mk1 shotgun for multi-gun matches. Well here's my contribution as to what I have done... I started out with the typical factory gun and jumped on a few times that i felt were needed right away. This items include the Nordic Compoents extended bolt handle and bolt release. To me these items were no brainers. They were easily better than the stock setup and not too expensive. The bolt release says it's for a Benelli, but just ignore that and install it on your FN without worrying about a thing. What you end up with is this setup.... IMG_4294 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr IMG_4296 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr Standby for more.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) After those basic items, I would suggest an efficient loading system. I had initially started out with the typical California Competition Works 4 round shot shell holders. They were great. I could hold a ton of shells on my belt and load them okay. Unfortunately I was never that fast with weak hand reloading and when it was really cold... Like below 30 degrees, I would drop a ton of shells and look like a total ass trying to load. Thankfully I had started working with Mark from Carbon Arms. Mark is heading up with Colorado State Multi Gun Championship match that is happening in April of this year, and I'm doing the website for the match. It just so happens that Mark is the maker of what is the baddest shotgun loading system on the market today!!! The TWinS Shotgun Loading System allows you to grab two shells at a time and load them into the shotgun. For me, this has proved to be significantly faster than weak hand reloading. I ended up with a SSL Backbone, SSL Pinwheel, and the SSL Chest Rig as my complete loading system... This system allowed me to reducing my shoot 1, load 4, shoot 1 time by 15% immediately. This is without any practice... I ran several runs on the shot timer with the weak hand reload and then ran the Carbon Arms system for the first time after setting up the system... It was an instant 15% decrease in the overall time. I was amazed and sold on the system! Up until this time, I had always treated the shotgun like a 3rd wheel... I've always been a big fan of pistol shooting and I enjoy shooting rifle so training for those have been easy. The shotgun has been the red headed stepchild... Now it's a primary part of my training and match shooting.... More to come.... Edited March 25, 2012 by Fried Chicken Blowout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) The next thing I jumped on came out of a class that James and Mark from Carbon Arms taught regarding Multi-Gun matches... A +1 tube on the SLP Mk1 is legal in most matches. It hadn't dawned on me before, but with the TWinS loading system, you are always loading two shells at a time. Well if you shoot to bolt lock, you will grab two shells from your loading system and drop one into the ejection port, and then load the next one into the loading tube. This sets you up for having an odd number of shells loaded. This becomes a problem since you're loading 2 at a time. So adding a +1 Nordic Extension turns your 8 round mag tube into a 9 round mag tube and you're back in business. Being that I shoot tactical, I need to make sure I only load 8 round in the tube at the start of the stage, but after that start, it's game on. Load up to 9 round in the tube and you're all set. IMG_4298 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr After setting up for the +1 extension, I realized that some speed could be picked up by being able to load the round faster. This is accomplished by a couple of things... First having your lifter welded up so the pitch fork is gone and there is a smooth ramp into the mag tube... The factory lifter, is forked in order to cradle the round going into the chamber. Unfortunately this is a pinch point when loading and not the smoothest ramp when trying to load quickly. Here's a comparison of the factory lifter and the modified lifter.... Factory on the bottom and modified on the top... IMG_0531 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr I sent my lifter off theC-Rums to have it welded up and extended for smooth loading of shells. The work took about a month to ship and return, but it was well worth the time and money. Loading is smooth, fast and pinch free now. This loading system was also improved by attacking the receiver with the Dremel. Normally I'm not a Dremel type of guy, but I didn't want to pay a gunsmith to open my loading port, so I did it myself. The opening of the loading port is most important in the front of the port, which allows you to seat the loaded shells into the mag tub quickly without having to shove them forward past the shell retainer. As you can see from the photos, there has been some significant material removed to ease the loading process... IMG_4301 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr IMG_4304 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr IMG_4302 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr You can also see from the photos the that I needed to cut back the hand guard in order to make room for the cuts into the receiver and for the loading thumb not to be impeded during the loading process.... Edited March 25, 2012 by Fried Chicken Blowout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 The next thing I decided to work on was the length of pull of the stock. I initially found the stock WAY to long.... Well maybe about 1" too long. This was adjusted with some work today. I posted a detailed write up on how to make this change in another post here on the forum. Here's the detailed info.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Last but not least, I decided to ditch the optic rail. Knowing that I will never shoot in Open class, I knew I would never use the optic rails on the FN SLP so I grabbed the angle grinder, installed a cutting wheel and started cutting. This removed about 4 oz from the gun and turned the useless rail into what mimics the rear sight on a pistol. The sight picture is exactly the same as you would expect from your pistol. Due to my loading system, I also choose to flip the gun over in my strong hand and load with my weak hand. This cut off optic mount also serves as a hand stop when I flip the gun over for loading. I may remove more in the future, but this was my starting point... IMG_4296 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr Here's a shot of my finished product.... IMG_4289 by FriedChickenBlowout, on Flickr This is one of the few guns I have that I can say is totally and completely reliable out of the box. All the work I put into it is just to make it fit me and work better for me. In the 1000 rounds I've put through it in the last 8 months, I can truthfully say I have only had 3 malfunctions. 2 failures to feed and one failure to kick a round from the mag tube. All failures were resolved by working the bolt handle. For a semi-auto shotgun I consider this to be really good. Things keep improving as I get more rounds through it, so I'm not concerned one bit about the few malfunctions I have had. If you have any questions, please let me know. Edited March 25, 2012 by Fried Chicken Blowout Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Donald Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Thanks, your pictures are just what I needed. I've spent years porting cylinder heads with an assortment of die grinders, just needed to see where to make the cuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 My pleasure. I had a hard time finding this info and good photos as well so I figured someone else would appreciate the post! I'm sure you'll have an awesome job with the experience of doing the head porting. The biggest part of the work is opening up the front of the receiver and mag tube. Good luck and post some photos of the work when you're done. Some people get much more aggressive then I did. Most of them do the regular leak hand reloads. For the 2 shell reloading I think this is as aggressive as is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CmbtEngr Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 Using your experience along with some other forum postings as examples, I took the plunge this weekend and opened up the loading port on my FN SLP. Used a Dremel on the receiver and a sanding drum chucked into a drill press for the forearm. Stayed conservative, but it was enough to make reloading easier and faster. Results below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11B Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Awesome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiligentPursuit Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 One note about the Nordic +1 extension-- Make sure that you use the Nordic follower with it. The stock FN follower can get stuck in the extension tube. I learned this the hard way during a match when I loaded a ninth shell during a stage, causing the stock follower to jam in the extension tube with the compressed spring behind it. I had to pull the tube off and pry the follower out to free it up- this after having to abandon the shotgun targets on the stage. Not a great s ore. I talked with Jeff Cockrum about it afterward and he matter of factly explained the need for the Nordic follower.Mine now has no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briggsd82 Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 Howdy, I just ordered my first semi-auto shotgun. The FN SLP MK1 12 ga 22". I see a lot of modifications discussion, but could anyone provide some specifics? Such as, which Nordic bolt release for the mk1? The one for the FN SLP or the Benelli m2? I have ready both things and some say slp and some say slp mk1. As far as side saddle holders, will the Mesa tactical fit the mk1 or is it only for the slp? Otherwise why use the 3GN velcro one? Which barrel clamp is best? I have read the Nordic with modification is good. Does anyone have one the fits out of box? Thank you for the help guys. Haven't shot a match yet, but I am ramping up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Howdy, I just ordered my first semi-auto shotgun. The FN SLP MK1 12 ga 22". I see a lot of modifications discussion, but could anyone provide some specifics? Such as, which Nordic bolt release for the mk1? The one for the FN SLP or the Benelli m2? I have ready both things and some say slp and some say slp mk1. As far as side saddle holders, will the Mesa tactical fit the mk1 or is it only for the slp? Otherwise why use the 3GN velcro one? Which barrel clamp is best? I have read the Nordic with modification is good. Does anyone have one the fits out of box? Thank you for the help guys. Haven't shot a match yet, but I am ramping up. If you're setting it up for 3-Gun I would avoid the side saddle and find a sport based reloading system that will work for you. I would also skip the barrel clamp, it's just not needed and hinders breakdown for cleaning. When reattaching them it can shift your POI. Everything from Nordic is good to go if you want to get an extension or other part. The Nordic bolt release from the Benelli is the one I'm using. I think they are all the same but they just now list the FN SLP as a new part. They didn't offer one for the FN at the time I bought it, but it works fine. You have to drill and tap the factory release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briggsd82 Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Thank you very much for the input. I will definately skip the barrel clamp. The bolt release and the charging nob will be on order shortly. I am still debating the side saddle as I have gotten used to having one on my pump when shooting for fun at my friends house. That will be my oh s&^t loads. I already bought 4, 4rd Choate shell caddys modified with Tek-Loks for my belt and love them. Since my FN should be here Wednesday, I have been practicing speed loading a standard Moss 500 with dummy rounds. Thank you for the info and speedy reply. Howdy, I just ordered my first semi-auto shotgun. The FN SLP MK1 12 ga 22". I see a lot of modifications discussion, but could anyone provide some specifics? Such as, which Nordic bolt release for the mk1? The one for the FN SLP or the Benelli m2? I have ready both things and some say slp and some say slp mk1. As far as side saddle holders, will the Mesa tactical fit the mk1 or is it only for the slp? Otherwise why use the 3GN velcro one? Which barrel clamp is best? I have read the Nordic with modification is good. Does anyone have one the fits out of box? Thank you for the help guys. Haven't shot a match yet, but I am ramping up. If you're setting it up for 3-Gun I would avoid the side saddle and find a sport based reloading system that will work for you. I would also skip the barrel clamp, it's just not needed and hinders breakdown for cleaning. When reattaching them it can shift your POI. Everything from Nordic is good to go if you want to get an extension or other part. The Nordic bolt release from the Benelli is the one I'm using. I think they are all the same but they just now list the FN SLP as a new part. They didn't offer one for the FN at the time I bought it, but it works fine. You have to drill and tap the factory release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fried Chicken Blowout Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I recommend CarbonArms' loading system... You'll find it the fastest and easiest to learn of all that is available. You can use the side saddle for what you describe but it's worth your money to get a real loading system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Holy hell, the Carbon Arms setups are wayyy more than the other options out there. I think I will go with the chameleon fabrics belt. Also, after looking at the pics in this thread, the loading port mods I did yesterday were not nearly aggressive enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Patrick Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 So I opened up the loading port and carrier welded up but can someone justify milling down the sides of the receiver? I load 4 weak hand from a shell carrier and I'm not sure if that will help... Opening up the front and welding the carrier are musts and make it so sweet to reload... Still haven't made the transition to the load 2 method but it keeps me up at night thinking about it! I can see justifying removing material on the sides for load 2... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Bacus Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 My shooting buddy runs an SLP. He added a Briley bolt handle, sent the gun to Jeff at C-Rums to have the load port opened up and the lifter welded. It also has a Nordic +2 tube added. To the OP, in my opinion a +1 is not the way to go if you're doing the load two method. +2 allows you to add two more shells immediately after the start signal should a stage design require it. I find myself adding 2 more at the start far more often than needing to completely refill the gun after shooting it dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Patrick Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 Can ur buddy post pics of the c-rum mods? Do they take out material from the sides of the receiver or just around the loading port at the follower? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuSekai Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Do you guys that own SLPs feel the sighting system is slower than a vent ribbed sight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 No. Have you looked at the shotguns of some of the best in the US? Many of them sink a rear sight into the vent rib on the Benellis and Versa-Max shotguns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuSekai Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 No.Have you looked at the shotguns of some of the best in the US? Many of them sink a rear sight into the vent rib on the Benellis and Versa-Max shotguns. Can't say that I have. I even see the FN shoot team use sent rib on the FN SLP mk1s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBTN Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/DBm40/IMG_0101_2_zpsb9e765f6.jpg FN SLP Competition model rear sight. Edited July 5, 2013 by DBTN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyuSekai Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn81/DBm40/IMG_0101_2_zpsb9e765f6.jpg FN SLP Competition model rear sight. Do they use it to shoot pellets or for slugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBTN Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 It really comes into play with slugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jborzo Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Thanks for posting all the pictures. It's tough to tell but it looks like some of the material removed from the receiver would have been part of the rim that keeps the magazine follower from popping out into the receiver. If this is the case, did doing so cause any problems? Also, did you have to remove the magazine tube in order to make the cuts to the front of the receiver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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