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M&P Pro Light Primer Hits.....


jailer252

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I recently purchased a 9mm Pro and did absolutely nothing to it. No trigger kits, cutting springs puting light this and reduced that into the gun. Yesterday while at the range I had several light primer hits. Re-inserted the round into the gun and nothing again. Put the round into my glock 34 and bang? Took the striker out and noticed an obstuction in the debris channel, however, when I look at the striker as it it through the breechface not much is protruding? Calling Smith today but wondering if anyone has had similiar issues.

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Its very interesting that this thread is the first one that came up since I experienced this same issue at the AL match last weekend. I've run 3500-4000 rounds through the pistol without a hitch, and of course the first time I experience this phenomenon is at a major match. On three different stages I experienced a random round being chambered and hit with the firing pin, but not igniting the primer. I believe that I will reach out to my S&W contact about a new striker and see what happens after installing a new one.

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I also had light striker strikes with my 9mm 5" Pro. Shaun Hopkins (Want2Race) suggested I go to a 13 lb. recoil spring. That took care of it.

I had a group lesson with Bob Vogel, and he said I could go to an 11 lb. recoil spring. I did with no problems, and with less muzzle rise at recoil.

I'm now shooting a Glock 34 and 35 (Minor PF) using an 11 lb. recoil spring. When I shoot Major in my 35, I put in a 13 lb. recoil spring. :cheers:

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There are a few different things that can cause light strikes with the M&P's. Usually when someone does a trigger job they don't account for the difference in timing when the trigger bar pushes up the striker block plunger verses when the sear drops the striker. The easiest way to test if you have a sear drop v.s. striker block timing issue is to take the striker out and use a sharpie marker to fully black out the striker block leg on the striker. Then put the striker back in and dry fire the gun at least 10 - 15 times. Then pull the striker back out and look at the striker block leg where you marked it to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off. If it has then the striker block leg is catching on the striker block plunger as it is coming forward to strike the primer. When it does this it will take a lot of striking force out of the forward motion of the striker and you end up with a light strike. You can fix this timing issue by changing the height of the striker block leg were it engages the striker block plunger. The goal is to have the striker block leg totally clearing the striker block plunger when the striker comes forward.

Since every pistol is a little different and everyone likes a different depth of trigger pull there isn't a universal depth to cut the striker block leg on the striker. This needs to be precision tuned for each pistol when doing a proper trigger job. If you don't feel up to the task of doing this properly yourself, let a competent gunsmith do it for you.

Edited by CHA-LEE
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When I first got my M&P45 after dry firing, I noticed the striker block leg on the striker was showing corner areas being ground off from hitting the striker safety plunger.

I called S&W and mentioned the problem. I asked if it would be OK to relieve a little of the leg to eliminate the interference. He said that would be OK. I stoned and polished it a bit. After my next shoot I will see if it is still hitting the safety. It does not seem to be causing any malfunctions such as light strikes. I will keep an eye on it.

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  • 1 month later...

The gun has made its way back from the factory and they replaced the springs and the problem is resolved. I think they put in a little more than a spring but hey, it works.

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I had an interesting lite strike issue on a full size 9. Tried everything, put in new Apex block, two new striker assemblies. Still intermittent lite strikes. About 1-4 in 50 rounds or so. Finally I noticed that the striker seemed to be dragging a bit on the top half. The bottom half when extended through the breech face seemed to have some relief around the striker. The top of the striker was very shinny and obviously rubbing. So I relieved the hole on top. No more lite strikes.

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I Also purchased a 5" 9mm Pro about four months ago. It suffered 8-10 light strike per every 100 round. I contacted Smith and they sent out a new striker assembly. That did not fix the problem. Sent the pistol back to Smith and they stated they replaced the barrel and put in a new striker assembly. That did not fix the problem. Finally after cleaning the pistol, I tried to insert a empty magazine into the pistol. The mag would not seat completely and when I removed the magazine, the sear deactivation lever (yellow metal thingy) and a small spring fell out to the bottom of the magwell. Back to Smith it went for a second time.

When I got it back, the note stated they changed the springs on the striker assembly and the reinstalled the sear deactivation lever and small spring. It looks to me the deactivation lever could have been the problem all along. I believe it was not installed correctly and it caused the sear to be ever so slightly raised or tilted. This caused the lower leg of the striker assembly to drag on the sear, sometimes taking away the sufficient power to ignite the primer.

That's just my opinion from someone that doesn't know a whole hell of a lot.

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