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Recessed Crown on a 1911?


technetium-99m

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I've seen a few guns that have had the barrel cut off to be even with the bushing and then a crown put on them to recess into the bushing a small amount.

I'm assuming a lathe is the best way to do this but I was wondering if the bulk of the material were removed if something like Brownell's 79 degree crowning tool would work. I'm looking at the one with the replaceable pilots to match bore diameter.

What say you all? Go for it or don't touch it since you don't have a lathe?

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That tool chatters and the finished product will look like ish. Turned by hand or faster, it didn't matter for me. Basically I couldn't get it to cut smooth. Flush the barrel by hand with files. I used a dremel (gasp!) and a round ball stone to break the edge of the crown. This was on the Hacksaw 2011.

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That tool chatters and the finished product will look like ish. Turned by hand or faster, it didn't matter for me. Basically I couldn't get it to cut smooth. Flush the barrel by hand with files. I used a dremel (gasp!) and a round ball stone to break the edge of the crown. This was on the Hacksaw 2011.

Thanks for the advice Shaun. You don't know how much I idolize you for the hacksaw 1911. That gun inspired me to put my own stuff together.

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I used an 11degree cutter from Brownell's a few times. (I guess they are calling it a 79d cutter now).

I cut a G24 barrel down to G35 length. (about the same as the amount of material cut off in Shaun's avatar)

Cut it off a bit proud, using a sawzall, keeping it lubed up as I cut. Then, trued it up with files. Then crowned it using the cutter. I wasn't going for a mirror finish, I wanted it to shoot. It did/does. I looks good enough too. It I wanted to further dress it up, I try to finish it up with a ball.

I hand turned mine.

On the pilot. I ordered a caliber specific brass pilot from Brownells. Needing a 0.400, I got something that was >0.450. I don't know if I got the wrong one, or if it was designed to be fit/turned down. If the latter...well, if I had a lathe to turn it down, I would have used that in the first place. So, I had to chuck the brass pilot up in a drill, then mount the drill in my vice...and work the pilot down to the proper size.

Somebody probably has a ruined barrel that you could use to practice on.

Go for it.

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Man you guys ROCK!

I read the Sir Hacksaw stuff a while back and spoke to my gunsmith buddy who practically fell through the speaker when I told him you cut off the barrel with a sawzall.

"HE cut it with WHAT?!"

If you have a buddy with a smithy machine that machine should be smooth and accurate enough to put a crown on the barrel.

I know little about gunsmithing....VERY little.

WHen bringing my latest weapons problem to the armorer (whether in THe Corps or the P.D.) I would say : "Look ..I don't know whats wrong with it...I didn't invent the MFer I just shoot it. If I knew enough to know what was wrong with it then I would of already fixed the fudging thing instead of standing here with parts in my paws."

I DO know enough to know that Flex is right in that the parts don't have to look pretty to shoot well.

Savage rifles shoot like a house on fire.... and their bores look like crap compared to some out there.

Years ago they started having problems with accuracy. They brought back someone who knew his stuff who told them : "You want these rifles to shoot ? Turn off that expensive machine you have polishing the bores."

They did and the accuracy returned. Looks like crap when you look down the bore but the darn things shoot better than the rifleman holding them.

Tech...a local machine shop should be able to sell you some lathe time to do this.

Ask your car wrenching buddies where the place is that your local auto mechanic goes to get stuff machined.

The crown can be crucial because if its done canted or off center it CAN affect the accuracy of the weapon.

At MOST pistol distances its probably not going to be a super big deal but for those few long shots you want to make?

It MIGHT be a big deal.

JK

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I was going to remove the bulk of the material with a mill and just use the tool to dress the crown. I hate to say this but I'm not overly concerned with how it looks. Since it will be covered with cerakote. Plus the muzzles of my 1911's are always coated with fine layer of fouling.

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Well CRAP, you have a MILL? Clamp up the barrel, center tool head on bore, then use the cutter. If the work and the tool are held firm, it should not chatter. I tried using it by hand and with a 10" drill press. Took me FOREVER to get the chatter marks out. Turn the tool very slow, the slowest speed on my drill press is like 500rpm.

Edited by want2race
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I've got a buddy that cuts (long) barrels back all the time. He likes a stiffer barrel (shorter is stiffer). He like to cut them off an inch at a time and test fire as he goes. He finds a sweet spot in length/stiffness. He shoots for accuracy, and hits what he shoots at. (In fact, he is one of the guys shooting pistols at 1,000y)

To clean up crowns, he just uses a chamfer/deburring tool (like you'd use on rifle brass).

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