raysracer Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 So, I have a 650. I'm starting to get into three gun. What do you guys think, if I get the caliber conversion, it is about 400. A new 1050 will be about 1800. Quite a bit of difference. Will it save me time and hassle? I will definitely save and pay more for less time and less hassle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Will you be loading any military (crimped primer pockets) brass for the 223? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Fresh Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 new press seems little excessive to me when you already have a 650, but if you got the cash do it 223 loads real nice on my 650 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raysracer Posted October 21, 2011 Author Share Posted October 21, 2011 No military brass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Fresh Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 No military brass then the swage on the 1050 isn't gonna really get used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabe Athouse Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 I'd continue with the 650 before going to a 1050. Unless it was just because I wanted to bring home a 1050. For 3gun, most people can crank out enough 223 to satisfy with a 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raysracer Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 My biggest concern with my 650 has been seating the primer. I've asked that question on a different thread. So, the guys who reload 223 on the 650, do you set up to plates? One for trimming, the second for reloading? What do your stations look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabe Athouse Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Whats the Issue you had with seating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glynnm45 Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 223 conversion for the 650 is $400????????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 With a Deluxe Quick-Change Kit and steel dies, the breakown: QTY SKU Description List (ea) Net 1 21101 XL 650 Caliber Conv: 223 Rem/5.56 76.95 76.95 1 21074 Casefeed Plate: Small Rifle (650/1050) 37.95 37.95 1 22059 650 Deluxe Quick-Change Kit 101.95 101.95 1 10839 3-Die Set, Dillon, Rifle: 223/5.56, Steel 65.95 65.95 1 13254 Case Gage, Dillon Stainless: 223 Rem 24.95 24.95 Net 307.75 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raysracer Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 I had added the carbide die which adds 80 to the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raysracer Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Whats the Issue you had with seating? I'm having issues with the occasional primer not being seated perfectly I'm reloading federal nickel .40. I'm trying to be very careful of pushing completely forward when I prime, but still I get a one or two per hundred that are not seating perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Since you have to lube carbide rifle dies, I don't push them. I asked a couple guys at Dillon on carbide vs. steel rifle dies, and they said for the carbide dies - their advantage is longevity. Carbide, yes, for a commercial 1050 that's churning out 50,000 - 100,000 rounds a year. For recreational or even competition shooing, you will never wear out a set of steel dies. And I asked a couple techs at Dillon which dies they bought (at a decent discount I'm sure) and they both said steel dies. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabe Athouse Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Whats the Issue you had with seating? I'm having issues with the occasional primer not being seated perfectly I'm reloading federal nickel .40. I'm trying to be very careful of pushing completely forward when I prime, but still I get a one or two per hundred that are not seating perfectly. Ive had primers not completely seat all the way down when I didnt quite complete the full stroke on the handle. Ive never had it be an issue as far as getting a FTF or light primer strike. Its only cosmetic as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mds131s Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 I have a 650 and a 1050 if you are not reloading military crimped cases then the 650 works great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I am glad to have found this thread in a search. Other than the conversion kit for the 650 as BE stated above, what else do you need. I have shooters that say they do not prep the 223 cases, just clean and load like a pistol round. Others trim then size with a one stage then put them through their Dillon. What is the proper set up? realistically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Common setup for any rifle loading is one tool head for prep, and a separate one for loading. If you plan to use a Dillon trimmer, you'd resize and trim with one tool head, charge, seat, and crimp with the other. One thing I wonder...since you have to lube before resizing, and generally tumble the lube off before loading, how many remove the decapping pin from the sizing die, and use a universal decapper in the loading tool head (to avoid issues with media in the primer pocket)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I just use a very fine corn cob media for polishing after trim and deburring and I don't have problems with anything in the primer pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Use a 2 head setup, one for sizing/trimming, one for loading. Not sizing rifle brass is asking for trubs. You can get away with it with new brass, but once its fired, resize & trim. I prefer to decap in the 1st head, and use a universal decaper to clear tumbling media from the pocket/flash hole. seat each primer carefully; do it the same way for each primer. Be sure to align the shell plate perfectly with the primer punch, it makes things soooo much better with primer seating! the 650 is the inexpensive way to go, just a conversion kit and 2 heads for a 1050 is $600, not including dies! be sure to lube, rifle brass will get stuck in a sizing die without it! .jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njl Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I prefer to decap in the 1st head, and use a universal decaper to clear tumbling media from the pocket/flash hole. That's what I've been doing for .30 carbine, but I've found that tiny bits of corn cob can get stuck to the walls of the primer pocket. The universal decapper doesn't help with those...so I've been considering removing the decapper from my sizing die and not decapping until I get to the loading setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastarget Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Use a 2 head setup, one for sizing/trimming, one for loading. Not sizing rifle brass is asking for trubs. You can get away with it with new brass, but once its fired, resize & trim. I prefer to decap in the 1st head, and use a universal decaper to clear tumbling media from the pocket/flash hole. seat each primer carefully; do it the same way for each primer. Be sure to align the shell plate perfectly with the primer punch, it makes things soooo much better with primer seating! the 650 is the inexpensive way to go, just a conversion kit and 2 heads for a 1050 is $600, not including dies! be sure to lube, rifle brass will get stuck in a sizing die without it! .jj what is the alternative to two head set up on a 650, is there an a different loaded that can be used for just sizing? I do understand that Trimming an entirely different piece of machinery. I am kind of ignorant in rifle reloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I prefer to decap in the 1st head, and use a universal decaper to clear tumbling media from the pocket/flash hole. That's what I've been doing for .30 carbine, but I've found that tiny bits of corn cob can get stuck to the walls of the primer pocket. The universal decapper doesn't help with those...so I've been considering removing the decapper from my sizing die and not decapping until I get to the loading setup. Not a bad idea, gets rid of the media problem totally... Just wondering about the primer pocket itself, decaping then priming means the pocket isn't getting cleaned...but we do it that way with pistol loading....hmmmmm .jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Use a 2 head setup, one for sizing/trimming, one for loading. Not sizing rifle brass is asking for trubs. You can get away with it with new brass, but once its fired, resize & trim. I prefer to decap in the 1st head, and use a universal decaper to clear tumbling media from the pocket/flash hole. seat each primer carefully; do it the same way for each primer. Be sure to align the shell plate perfectly with the primer punch, it makes things soooo much better with primer seating! the 650 is the inexpensive way to go, just a conversion kit and 2 heads for a 1050 is $600, not including dies! be sure to lube, rifle brass will get stuck in a sizing die without it! .jj what is the alternative to two head set up on a 650, is there an a different loaded that can be used for just sizing? I do understand that Trimming an entirely different piece of machinery. I am kind of ignorant in rifle reloading. Use a Dillon trimmer on the 1st head. Everything gets done at one whack, then clean the brass, swage if necessary, and load it with the 2nd head. The only way I would not use a 2 head system is with pre prepped cases. You can buy sized/trimmed/primed cases too... .jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g56 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 No military brass Virtually all 223/5.56 brass is crimped, both commercial and military, in the past Remington commercial wasn't crimped, but I have heard that current production Remington is crimped, I can't confirm that since I use a Dillon and rarely (if ever) buy factory ammo for any of my firearms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbagg0705 Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Mr Ghost Dog,im not sure if your looking for military ammo to be reloaded,and what the regs are on shipping,but ive got a friend here in Texas,that has a reloading factory,and can reload those,and also specializes in 50 cal. also.Hes been reloading many years,and my go to guy for questions,as hes been reloading many years,and very good friends with Mike Dillon,Rick with Mr Bullet feeder,and many of the heavy hitters and major suppliers.He also buys in incrediable bulk to give you the best deal. Will you be loading any military (crimped primer pockets) brass for the 223? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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