Alan Adamson Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Just a quick followup... I re-checked everything and loaded up the press with bullets (mr. bulletfeeder ) and brass... Primed the pump and started cranking... After a total of 150 rounds (very small sample, but given where I started a major accomplishment).... No crushed primers, not even any that felt strange... Best part was I didn't need to change anything, just checked OAL (redding comp seating die), reset the swage station to Win WCC crimped brass, and some FC crimped that I happened to have. Still using only WIN brass, but I'll switch to mixed here shortly... All this in 9mm, with 124 JHP MG bullets, and true blue as the powder - have to use the arredondo powder bar as that stuff is wicked fine (just like SP2 - which I can't tell the difference with in either of my guns). So unless something changes, I hope I'm good to go... Does suggest that at some point, standard maint needs to include replacing the primer punch.... but let's see what that number is... I really hope I can go through a flat of primers without an issue... That might be dreaming, but I'm being optimistic at the moment! Yeah - jumping for joy at the moment!!! Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 I am considering a 1050 and stumbled upon your thread. Just curious if your problem was resolved? I have to admit that I am going to do a lot more research before placing an order for a 1050 as I have had very few problems with my 550/casefeeder setup and want something that is an improvement over what I have vs. something that is a headache Cheers, Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 (edited) I'm about 90% there... I say 90% because I believe it was a combination of primers *and* primer punch... I had been using all WIN brass, and Wolf SPP primers. I was crushing one about every 10 or 15 shells, until I changed the primer punch, then it went to about 1 in 200... But I just decided to try some CCI SPP primers and I think that rate will improve even more. The wolf primers are well known for being on the *largeish* diameter size... and a few rounds with CCI's felt so much better... If anyone is following along... I did try a few other things back when things weren't so good just to rule them out. I tried a new shellplate - made no difference, I tried a new primer punch bushing - made no difference. I have a new primer rocker arm that I may try as I don't like how the rocker arm cams over the primer punch and causes it to move back towards the rear of the press when it cams. The only part that I haven't tried a new primer slide, but I doubt that would make any difference. So I think this is going to come down to primer punch and primer selection. I'm also going to go to mixed brass as a science experiment. Basically throwing the gauntlet at it. I'll provide a summary when I'm finished.... Got to load a few 100 in the next couple days as I have an upcoming match and I have to check the zero on some scopes... Hope this is helpful to all... Edited October 5, 2011 by Alan Adamson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted October 5, 2011 Share Posted October 5, 2011 Thanks for the update Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K80kid Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Well, I found this thread while attempting to figure out a solution to the exact same problem. Unfortunately for me, one of the crushed primers detonated causing a chain reaction detonating all the primers in the primer magazine. Which, ruptured the aluminum primer tube, blew the primer rod into 4 pieces, cracked the primer slide, bent the primer seater, and bent the shell plate. The good news was dillon never even hesitated when I called for the replacement parts. I thought I was going to have to pay for the parts and he laughed when I asked if they took visa. He said obviously I have never called for replacement parts because dillon covers just about everything. Anyway, after putting on the replacement parts, I was still crushing one out of ten primers. So I read your post and went to the press to play with it. First thing I did was remove the shell locater at the primer seating position and found that when I pulled the handle the primer would move the case just a touch one way or another to get things lined up just right and for ten shells I never had a problem. Number eleven crushed. Examining the case I figured I would try to swage it a bit more. So I turned the swager rod up until the flat egde at the top, where the radius ends, was just below level with the shell plate. I proceeded to load 200 rounds with out issue. I must say that the brass I was using was Winchester, and federal. Most of the crushed primers occurred on the Winchester cases. On another note I also had the issue with the primer not punching out at the sizing station. My fix was to put a rcbs small rifle pouch rod in place of the dillon punch. It was about 1/8" longer and cured that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Alan: You do have the correct primer punch bushing in the press? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Alan: You do have the correct primer punch bushing in the press? Yes, I ordered a second one, along with a few other parts related to the priming function and it was the same as the one in the press. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) So after a few more adjustments, and sorting out all the S&B brass.... I've now run a number of primer tubes worth of mixed headstamp brass with zero failures (watch I'll jinx myself). I also sent Gary an email with what I think with fix everyone's 1050, at least the crushed primer issue... If I had the tools, I think I could build what I described to him relatively easily. Basically what is needed is as follows. (ONE NOTE, I did not look to see if the large base to the primer punch could be dropped down into the primer punch hole from the top, if there is a shoulder in the hole, this may not work without lower casting modifications.) a) take the primer punch and make it in 2 parts... a.1) the large base with spring step, drilled and tapped for the punch stem see the next part; a.2) the punch as a stem with threads that will thread into the large base. Also, put a larger tip on it and taper the tip to the small stem. - This is the real fix. That head needs to be on the order of .155-.160 in diameter you'll need to increase the hole size in the primer slider to allow for the larger head on the primer punch c) now take the primer bushing and create a matching taper to allow the primer punch head to center and rest flush with the primer bushing. Now to assemble all of this, do so as a complete unit, *outside of the press*... drop the primer stem down into the bushing, then put the spring on and press the stem collapsed with the base and thread the 2 things together... you could even put small flats on both sides of the stem to allow tightening and a drop of light loctite would hold it. As an alternate method, you could make the stem without threads, and a longer shaft and drill the lower bushing all the way through, then drill a side hole for a set screw... this may allow for some adjustment if needed. Once this unit is assembled, drop it into the hole in the press form the top and tighten the primer bushing just like you did before. The fix is in making the primer punch larger and self centering. Also, this could be enhanced by floating the primer punch on a steel ball so that the cam that pushes the punch upward doesn't rock the punch, which it does today when it cams over. Anyway, there are 2 issues with a 1050.. a) primer pickup, easily fixed with alignment of the primer tube and keeping the rubber in good shape on the primer bar crushed primers, mostly fixed with precise alignment and a matched set of parts..... really hard to predict if you'll get or not in your build, or perhaps through my new assembly above... I can't see how my new approach would be worse and based upon how my press crushed primers, it could only help... Let me know what you think, Alan Edited October 23, 2011 by Alan Adamson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) Let me know what you think, Alan I think you are very persistent. Kudos to you for sticking it out. Edited October 23, 2011 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Let me know what you think, Alan I think you are very persistent. Kudos to you for sticking it out. Well, so far, I've got it working, so perhaps my perseverance has paid off... I've certainly learned a bunch by doing it, and based upon where I am, I'm worlds above where I was. Do I think the 1050 is as perfect as some would make it - Nope, far from it. However, I had 2 650's already and with 9mm, there simply is no better option, given that I shoot brass that *may* be crimped. So if I can continue to make incremental improvements to it and maybe show Dillon the problems, then perhaps, we'll all benefit. I know you had challenges with yours, I don't know if they were worse, the same or better than the ones I've had, but so far, I'm encouraged... And hopefully my documentation of the issues will show others what they *may* end up with.... Not a pan on Dillon, just what I hope is actual documented fact. Bottom line... time will tell ... Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I know you had challenges with yours, I don't know if they were worse, the same or better than the ones I've had, but so far, I'm encouraged... I'm still very bitter over the whole ordeal. I try to talk about it here, but I always end up coming back and deleting my comments. I'm glad you got yours running and you've learned a lot from the experience. Dillon is known for their customer service, and I agree, they are pretty awesome. But they aren't perfect. An apology would have gone a long way with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I just thought I would share my experiences with my new 1050. Bottom line: I have had no primer problems through the 1st 1000 rounds using all sorts of headstamps including nickle plated stuff. I run federal SP primers so I feared a crushed primer. I did have one primer that wasn't fully seated, but that was due to a piece of .40 brass that caused me to abort a stroke mid-stream and once I found it during my case gauging step (yes, I case gauge every round) I just put it back into the priming station and reseated it. I am running .38 Super, using an EGW undersized die and I kept the swaging station intact to help straighten out the occasional ding in the top of a case... Who knows, problems could surface for me but for now everything looks to be a go. Just wanted to share a positive story... Cheers, Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sauza45 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I had trouble with primers getting kicked out the back of the 1050 not priming the case, never crushed them. Tried all the adjustments I could and then called Dillon. Told them what it was doing and he said there was some presses that got sent out with the primer slide not machined just right and sent me a new one. Installed the new primer slide and have loaded about 3,000 with not trouble at all. Dillon customer service is great, they will work with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Just bought a 1050 this week after talking to quite a few people. Glad I found this thread so I will know what to look for if I get a similar problem. Thanks for all the updates on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 Figured it was time for an update and some new information. After changing the primer punch, the primer bushing, the shell plate and cleaning up and lubing the press... I got to the point of going to 300-500 rounds before a primer crush, same way as before, but at least I'm back to where I started (remember I was at 10-12 before a crush). So, while at the Shot show this past week, I found Dillon and talked their ear off... Guess what, they have made a change to the primer bar, and from all accounts is just may resolve my problem once and for all (at least my figure are crossed). Quick summary first.... a) my 1050 *never* missed a primer on pick up, so it's not an issue with the alignment of the primer tube/magazine to the primer bar feed hole as some have. my issue is one where the primer as it's being seated in the brass, would start to go in, and then would roll over to about 30 degrees and one edge of the primer would pouch out and get stuck and then you'd crush the primer, almost turning it inside out (see pictures above). Usually this would not stay in the case, and so you'd have to clean the entire press up before you could continue as the messed up primer would stay in the primer bar. What Dillon has changed is the amount of bevel on the top of the primer bar, this will support the primer for alignment for a slightly longer duration and not allow it to roll over so soon. Between that and a tweak on my swaging station, I hope this remedies this completely this time. They sent me a new primer bar yesterday and I may have it tomorrow, if so, I've got a match this weekend that I'll use it to load with. I know I probably have the patience of Jobe, but I really like the 1050, just wish mine would run and run and run and run.... but alas it doesn't.... So here's hoping... once I get the new one, I'll try to take a picture of the two hopefully it will be obvious of the differences so others with this same issue can try this change. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I've loaded on the 550, 650 and the 1050. For me, the 550 has the fewest headaches. Bob's using a 550. I think I'll keep on doing the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retread1911 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I have not read the entire string so I apologize if this has been covered. You are likely having a stability issue with your mounting of the 1050. I searched for a year to solve similar problems on me RL1050 before I shored up my table. Once I got the table completely solid these problems went away. Thinks like carpet under the bench legs or lack of wall attachments can cause these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGibe Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Figured it was time for an update and some new information. After changing the primer punch, the primer bushing, the shell plate and cleaning up and lubing the press... I got to the point of going to 300-500 rounds before a primer crush, same way as before, but at least I'm back to where I started (remember I was at 10-12 before a crush). I'm sorry you are still having problems. I don't want to jinx myself, but I have loaded over 3k rounds so far and have not experienced this problem. My experience seems to be the polar opposite of yours... I can't imagine loading on anything else. Someone mentioned mounting the press solidly (which I already assume you have done). I can add that I do have mine lag bolted to the wall on a stand I purpose-built for the press... I wish I had more to offer, but felt like I should at least share my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I have not read the entire string so I apologize if this has been covered. You are likely having a stability issue with your mounting of the 1050. I searched for a year to solve similar problems on me RL1050 before I shored up my table. Once I got the table completely solid these problems went away. Thinks like carpet under the bench legs or lack of wall attachments can cause these issues. Oh trust me, it's *NOT* that, my bench is anything but loose, it's affixed to the wall and the floor and basically a rock... Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Adamson Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Figured it was time for an update and some new information. After changing the primer punch, the primer bushing, the shell plate and cleaning up and lubing the press... I got to the point of going to 300-500 rounds before a primer crush, same way as before, but at least I'm back to where I started (remember I was at 10-12 before a crush). So, while at the Shot show this past week, I found Dillon and talked their ear off... Guess what, they have made a change to the primer bar, and from all accounts is just may resolve my problem once and for all (at least my figure are crossed). Quick summary first.... a) my 1050 *never* missed a primer on pick up, so it's not an issue with the alignment of the primer tube/magazine to the primer bar feed hole as some have. my issue is one where the primer as it's being seated in the brass, would start to go in, and then would roll over to about 30 degrees and one edge of the primer would pouch out and get stuck and then you'd crush the primer, almost turning it inside out (see pictures above). Usually this would not stay in the case, and so you'd have to clean the entire press up before you could continue as the messed up primer would stay in the primer bar. What Dillon has changed is the amount of bevel on the top of the primer bar, this will support the primer for alignment for a slightly longer duration and not allow it to roll over so soon. Between that and a tweak on my swaging station, I hope this remedies this completely this time. They sent me a new primer bar yesterday and I may have it tomorrow, if so, I've got a match this weekend that I'll use it to load with. I know I probably have the patience of Jobe, but I really like the 1050, just wish mine would run and run and run and run.... but alas it doesn't.... So here's hoping... once I get the new one, I'll try to take a picture of the two hopefully it will be obvious of the differences so others with this same issue can try this change. Alan Got the new part today, there is a pretty significant difference in the amount of taper between the flat level of the primer slider and hole... Going to put the new part in tomorrow and crank out a few rounds... I've got my test case all ready... WIN brass, all hand sorted and CCI primers.... That, at one time, I would crush 1 out of 10 on before Gary helped me with the primer punch swap, since then I've been doing hand sorted Mixed (minus S&B and some other oddities) and it's been running at about 300-500 before I crush one, I'm hoping this puts me over the top with some margin, if that's possible... if not, I know exactly what I'm going to do to fix it (and yes, it still means I'll keep it ... ). Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrt4me Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I have been seriously considering the Super 1050 to load volumes of 9x19mm (combined with a Mr Bulletfeeder and an P-W Autodrive), but this thread has given led to slight concerns; do you have to sort your brass by manufacturer, particularly for the swage and priming operations to function smoothly? Or are you able to simply load mixed brass into the case feeder and have the Super 1050 function smoothly and reliably? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) I have been seriously considering the Super 1050 to load volumes of 9x19mm (combined with a Mr Bulletfeeder and an P-W Autodrive), but this thread has given led to slight concerns; do you have to sort your brass by manufacturer, particularly for the swage and priming operations to function smoothly? Or are you able to simply load mixed brass into the case feeder and have the Super 1050 function smoothly and reliably? Not to hijack the thread or anything, but my 1050 has run great since day 1. Other than a few tweaks here and there, getting everything set up right, no issues. Running a PW drive and a bullet feeder on it, about 2k rounds so far in this set up and no issues for me. Has some "clunkiness" to it while cycling, but nothing appears to be an issue. Using a Hornady bullet feeder and loading .40 Edited January 30, 2012 by spideysteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I have a 1050 plus the KISS Bulletfeeder and I don't sort brass other than primer size for 45ACP. My once fired 9mm is a mix of commercial and military so no worries. Have at her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hrt4me Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Has some "clunkiness" to it while cycling, but nothing appears to be an issue. Using a Hornady bullet feeder and loading .40 what made you opt for the Hornady bullet feeder for your Super 1050? no compatibility issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spideysteve Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 what made you opt for the Hornady bullet feeder for your Super 1050? no compatibility issues? I had the Hornady bullet feeder already on my LNL AP ... so, I just moved it over to the 1050. I have a KISS on order right now. The Hornady bullet feed dies work with no problem. My biggest issue was getting it raised up high enough. I will have to take some pics/video or something to show it, but I had a 1" square tube, put a bend on it to match the angle of the stock one from Hornady, then mounted it with L brackets to my bench. The arm that holds the drop spring had to be bent a bit upwards to keep the vertical section going into the die exactly vertical, otherwise the bullets would get hung up as they went into the top of the die. Once I worked out all those small kinks, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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