turbocomp38s Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 I have a 5 inch limited gun with long dust /wide cover. Some friends suggested not to use one, some suggested to use one. I have one in mine right now. Is there any drag when using one? Causing jams during cycle of gun? Your expert views will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrd Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 Is there any drag when using one?Causing jams during cycle of gun? Your expert views will be greatly appreciated. Not if it fits right, some trimming may be needed on some buffs, I prefer Wilson or Heitt .090" as no trimming is needed and they are tough. Some guns love them some hate them, I have seen guns run with 3 .090"'s and some that like only one .060". Expert? Enthusiast? Master? Skilled? I don't think it matters. What your gun likes and how your gun works for you at the match under a timer is what counts. IMHO, I think buffs are a great thing, they make the gun shoot softer as you can use a lighter recoil spring, and you don't have that metal to metal crash of the slide and frame fatiguing your gun and arm. Shock buffs, Slide Glide and a light recoil spring = SOFT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precision40 Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 I've had them completely shread to pieces and had no problems. All I do is take a sharp knife and cut the burrs off of the mold-lines, that should make them problem-free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikW Posted April 5, 2004 Share Posted April 5, 2004 Shock Buffer FAQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.40AET Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 Just in case the FAQ's don't include the Cominolli guide rod, here is a link. It has a shock buff on BOTH sides of the guide rod head. Neither the frame or the slide contacts the steel guide rod head. Extra soft. Add shock buffs as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonub Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 cominolli link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TM262 Posted April 12, 2004 Share Posted April 12, 2004 I think it is feel and tolerance as mentioned above. I use them in both my limited guns after the usual trimming and they feel right at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted April 13, 2004 Share Posted April 13, 2004 Just so I can shoot my gun with no worries of "possible damage" due to a light spring setup and IPSC PF requirements (mine hovers at ~174-178 PF), I use a thick one. But I made sure my gun works with it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBF Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 I have had nothing but good luck with the standard Wilson. Some of the thicker stuff won't work in all guns. YMMV, try it, only way to know for sure. Travis F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tightloop Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 I go with what my smith recommends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalmas Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 I've been running with a STI recoil master for some time and really never got my gun to feel good or cycle reliably. Now i have a standard guiderod (SVI 9x19 full duster) with 3 buffs, I've managed to put a black (don't know make of) on the back (like cominolli rod) and two (black & blue) on the spring side. Both me and my gun really like my new setup. Finished 3rd at the german area 2 lv III match with this setup, But don't change setup the night before the match... cost a miss on the first stage and timing problem on the second.. Experiment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mistral404 Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 Kodiak Precision put a shock buff (do not know the brand but it is black and not a Wilson) in my STI Edge Limited gun. It has lasted over 3,000 rounds and going strong. It has never caused a jam etc. I do not know what he used but call him and find out. His works great. I use a Wilson (black and blue) in my L10. It is hammered after one training session. Luckily a friend gave me a bunch so I do not worry so much about it. I run a 15/16 pound spring and a power factor of 164-167. I am not too pleased/impressed with the durability of the Wilsons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Boit Posted April 14, 2004 Share Posted April 14, 2004 I've had Hiett buffs for years and never experienced any jam related to them. I was previously running a 12.5 lbs RS and a 15 lbs MS with 178 PF. The buff was just marked, nothing horrible. Pistol's setup is important, most of the "shot to pieces" buffs I saw were by a bushing pistol with lots of sharp edges around the spring plug, mine was a reverse plug and never cut any piece of plastic on the buffs Now I'm running with heavy RM, a like it a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Snyder Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I ran the CP "white" buff for many years, coupled with a relative heavy 20-22# recoil spring in my competition .45's with 200 and 230 grain bullets without a problem... a couple years ago I shot some lighter 180 jacketed bullets for the Fla Open and that combination chopped the buff in about 300 rounds, it rolled and caused a hiccup.... I removed it and have not replaced it, without any noticable change in performanace.... regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Just so I can shoot my gun with no worries of "possible damage" due to a light spring setup and IPSC PF requirements (mine hovers at ~174-178 PF), I use a thick one. But I made sure my gun works with it in. Ok a little update on what I posted after yesterday's range session. Shooting stronghand/weakhand only doesn't seem very favorable now with my thick buff setup. I had occasional FTF's. Took it out and the gun ran like it should. But because I felt some "new recoil" hit my palm and didn't like it, I'll see how my "washered" thin buff setup performs in the next range session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffro Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I am not a gunsmith, and I am definitely NOT an expert. HOWEVER, I do want to give you a warning. When replacing your shok-buff (or newly adding one), be SURE to check that the slide goes ALL THE WAY BACK on recoil. This is easily checked by leaving your recoil spring out, pulling your slide all the way back, and marking an "index mark" with a pencil on the slide and the frame. Replace your spring and the shok-buff, and make sure that the slide will go as far back as it did without the shok-buff. I don't want to represent mysel as being any kind of an expert or super technician, but do follow this proceedure, or serious damage can befall your blaster. Best of luck, Jeffro (Jeff) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcoliver Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 I am not a gunsmith, and I am definitely NOT an expert. HOWEVER, I do want to give you a warning. When replacing your shok-buff (or newly adding one), be SURE to check that the slide goes ALL THE WAY BACK on recoil. This is easily checked by leaving your recoil spring out, pulling your slide all the way back, and marking an "index mark" with a pencil on the slide and the frame. Replace your spring and the shok-buff, and make sure that the slide will go as far back as it did without the shok-buff. I don't want to represent mysel as being any kind of an expert or super technician, but do follow this proceedure, or serious damage can befall your blaster. Best of luck, Jeffro (Jeff) Hi Jeffro, I'm no expert either but I think there will be a slide travel difference (with and without buff, no spring in both cases) equal to the thickness of the buff. What one should be watching out for with a buff installed is pre-mature collapsing of the spring unto itself before the slide hits the buff. This being the case, cutting of spring is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffro Posted April 26, 2004 Share Posted April 26, 2004 Mcoliver, You said what I intended to say. I stand corrected. Thank you for the clarification. Best to all, Jeffro (Jeff) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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