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A "Dumb Question, Perhaps


doc540

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Suppose I had 200-300 of factory loaded WWB in .38 Special on the ammo shelf.

And I wanted a lighter, paper-punching load for my snub.

Using a bullet puller, could I reload them with my powder load of choice?

Apart from the expenditure of labor, would this be a viable option?

I mean, how's a noob gonna learn if he doesn't ask, right?

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I could swear that the instructions that came with my Frankfort Arsenal bullet puller said not to pull Factory ammo. Can't recall if that is true 100%, but I'm pretty darn sure. I have no idea why, they pull bullets all the time at Major matches, and I know when they do, they're pulling factory ammo from some shooters.

I'll let someone smarter than me respond to that...just wanted to throw it out there.

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as far as pulling factory bullets it really depends on the manufacturer. you should not pull any factory loaded bullets that have a bullet sealant on them. the sealant works like a glue. its like glueing the bullet to the brass. i guess you would have to reasearch the way the ammo was loaded to know for sure. once the bullet is pulled you would still need to run the brass through all dies before reloading so it would be easyer to just fire them then reload them.

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I don't know that I'd pull all of them, just wondering about the idea in general.

It would save bullets and primers, though.

Just thinking out loud.

Does anyone know if Winchester uses a sealant on their WWB .38 ammo? If it's there, I can't see it.

thnx

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All you will save by pulling is the cost of a few hundred cases, and primers. $30 or less. WWB goes for $15-20 per 50

Sell the ammo if it is no use to you, but pulling the bullets will cost you money, not save it.

Just get some once fired brass, new primers, and load away.

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All you will save by pulling is the cost of a few hundred cases, and primers. $30 or less. WWB goes for $15-20 per 50

Sell the ammo if it is no use to you, but pulling the bullets will cost you money, not save it.

Just get some once fired brass, new primers, and load away.

Thanks

Not really looking to "save "money, and I definitely can sell the ammo locally and I have brass, bullets, powder, and primers.

I just wondered if factory bullets can be pulled and the powder charge modified.

Edited by doc540
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Why would you need to use the depriming die? The station 2 (powder die) puts the bell on for resting the bullet on the brass. Since the bullet hasn't been shot, why size the case? Am completely out of it? Or am I right / almost right? I'm pretty darn green so I'm just thinking this through.

Edited by fireman275
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Why would you need to use the depriming die? The station 2 (powder die) puts the bell on for resting the bullet on the brass. Since the bullet hasn't been shot, why size the case? Am completely out of it? Or am I right / almost right? I'm pretty darn green so I'm just thinking this through.

Seated bullets will have screwed up the dimensions of an unseated case. You'll want to rerun them through the sizer to make sure it's reformed to the right dimensions before flaring(again)

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I keep track of my reloading to an (obsessive?) degree. Loaded rounds I find on the range get pulled and their brass recycled into my press whenever I smash a primer. I've only noticed S&B having a sealant so I think you're save with WWB.

I'd trade them for some wad cutters or shoot them as is rather than pull and reload though.

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I keep track of my reloading to an (obsessive?) degree. Loaded rounds I find on the range get pulled and their brass recycled into my press whenever I smash a primer. I've only noticed S&B having a sealant so I think you're save with WWB.

I'd trade them for some wad cutters or shoot them as is rather than pull and reload though.

That's what I was thinking since it's visually obvious on S&B and Wolf.

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I can see the purpose of your question. There was once a time where money was more valuable than time. Buying 300 bullets isn't cheap for some people. Pull 'em, pull the decapping pin on your die, size 'em and shoot 'em. I'm sure the primers won't give you any grief as long as you're not running max loads. I doubt they use mag primers in .38spl anyway. You WILL need to size them, though. You won't get consistent case tension around the bullet if you don't and might suffer from bullet "set forward" :goof: . I use that term because in revolvers, the case is anchored to the cylinder by the rim. When the gun recoils, the bullets WANT to stay stationary while the case recoils with the gun. If your tension is too weak around the bullet, you'll open your cylinder and a bunch of bullets and powder will fall out on the ground. I witnessed this recently in my buddy's .44 mag. Granted, the recoil is much greater there, it could have made for an unsafe situation. He was shooting lead and the cases weren't crimped properly.

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I can see the purpose of your question. There was once a time where money was more valuable than time.

Yes, think "hobby/bench time" + "noob" = questions like this. :D

Be nice, this is the beginner forum :P

It used to take me a month and a few skipped meals to save up for 300 bullets in college. And ALLLLLLL single stage reloading. If I had a nickle for every hour I spent reloading single stage, I'd be set for retirement.

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Just shoot them then reload them with you componets. Factory ammo uses there own powder mix and is not available to the reloader. That is why factory ammo with not state what powder is used and the main reason lots are stamped on the box.

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Just shoot them then reload them with you componets. Factory ammo uses there own powder mix and is not available to the reloader. That is why factory ammo with not state what powder is used and the main reason lots are stamped on the box.

I pulled one of the WWB 115gr and the powder weighed 5.0 right on the money. It was shiny little flakes.

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H110 does not look anything like shiny little flakes.

There is no way to identify the powder, and without knowing what it is, it is not something you can use. Dispose if it.

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