TRUbor9 Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 i have been having issues with the seater not seating the primers deep enough... have you had the same problem? how did you fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I have not. But if I did I would pick up the phone and call 1-800-338-3220. You'll be up and running soon. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Check to see if you have a dimple in the frame under the primer seater. If so file and snap a piece of metal off some automotive feeler gauges and JB weld that over the dimple. Feeler gauges are very tough and will not dent nearly as easy as any of the common metals you have laying around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 i have 2 lnl loaders and the older one has the dimple but even the brand new one isn't seating below flush ... I don't want to sell them and get a 1050 because it's so difficult to change caliber on the 1050 or so i hear :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mush from PA. Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 TRU, could you give some more info: What case (9mm, 45 ACP) What brand: (Rem, Win, Federal) What primer: (Small pistol, and CCI, Rem, Win) I'm not sure it would matter but it might. I had a hard time with Federal (range brass) 9mm Luger cases and CCI small pistol primers. When I used Win and Rem brass and the same CCI primers I had no issue. I them tried another press and repeated the same problem. I threw away the Federal cases and it fixed my problem. In a previous thread a poster had high primer issues on his LNL and hot glued a washer under the post that pressed the primer into the case. It seems you can wear out the medal under the primer press. I have not had that issue but others have reported the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemsum Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 I have a high primer once in a long while but thought I was not pressing the handle forward enough. I will check for the dimple. Thanks for the advise. TRUbor, GREAT avatar!! Clemsum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I have been having trouble with FEDERAL and CCI. Never used that combo before but I started using it when I got the LnL. It's been a PITA. I am switching back to WIN brass tommorow. The few WIN brass I have seat a lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 mix brass PRIMERS- tula SmR Fed SmP CCI Smp & SmR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 (edited) There are a few tricks to the LNL primer system. #1 get your indexing correct. #2 Keep it clean powder gets in it and will shut it down. #3 Make sure that there is nothing under the shell plate carrier. #4 Make sure the shell plate is snug. If you press on it with your finger and it moves down it is loose, grease on the little detent balls, tight but not dragging. #5 if there is a hole in the frame under the primer punch cover or fill it up. Mine has a small indent but it is not affecting seating. On the down stroke if it gets hard stop you are about to break the primer system. Ok to go full tilt on the upstorke. Get one of those primer plastic rods for dillon and use it to push primers down then you won't get that annonying last primer stuck it will be the tip of the rod and that tells you its time to refill. Here is an easy tip. Take the tray out of the primer box hold you flip try above it press the primer tray to the flip tray then roll it over, all the primer are now facing the right way and you just put the lid on and turn it over, no endless rocking back and forth. Works for winchester, magtech, and CCI. To prevent high primers - Push it all the way back you can't put them in too deep. If brute force is not working you are just not using enough! Never use brute force on the down stroke you will break something. My back stroke for primers is like a jab, you know when you hit bottom. I've loaded about 50K rounds on mine with no high primers and have not blown up any either. I've used CCI, Win, MaxTech, and Federal. My facvorite is CCI especially the magnums for my open gun. The smalls have worked great in 9, 40, 38SC, 223 etc I only use large in 45. I'm still using the original primer punch but I'm on my 3rd slide, its that brute force thing. If you had a Dillon (I have an xl650) you could have 4 or 5 new problems you never had before, plus the most annonying of all is pulled back primers. If that happens take your decapping pin to the grinder and put a nice 45 degree angle on the tip and then radius the edge puts an end to that nonsense. Have not had that on the LNL using Hornady Die, seems to be a Dillon die thing. The LNL is a great machine but it takes a while to master it. Edited February 27, 2011 by CocoBolo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Thanks, great post Ron! Yep just ran into the problem of some powder accumulating in the primer slide area. Wades things up pretty fast that computer 'air in a can' stuff does the trick. Definitely keep the system clean. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmw5142 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 that computer 'air in a can' stuff does the trick. Definitely keep the system clean. Yup, I always keep a can next to my LNL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noylj Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 The only problems I had with my L-N-L AP were: The last primer not dropping into the slider and jamming things up and A bit of dirt or powder falling into the primer seating stem and locking the punch in the UP position. Using a Dillon primer rod solved 1, particularly as I now know when I am down to just a few primers. You can clean out the primer punch with canned air or a solvent blast. Wish they would develop a primer punch wher dirt coming the top could fall out at the bottom. Other than that, I never had any problems priming. I have had a lot more problems priming with my 1050s. Note: 1050s are no where near as cheap or easy for caliber conversions, but they aren't all that hard. However, you can't get much quicker than twisting out 4-5 dies with a half turn and replacing with -5 dies and pulling and shell plate and replacing it. On the 1050 you have the cartridge plunger tube, the case feeder "block", the tool head, and the brass retaining pins. Off the top of my head, I think that is about it. For changing primer size, you need to replace the primer tube, the slider, the punch and the bushing, and the swaging rod (and set-up the retainer/expander die and swage rod). None is hard, you just have to be systematic while taking down and reassembling. The problem is when you have a piece left over and you have to disassemble to re-install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 my lnl's came with a pin for the primers like the dillion pin coco was talking about. as well everything else has run flawlessly except i can't get it to seat the primers, I'll try the brute force thing but both of them will probably be for sale since my dad bought a new 1050 for cheap however i may keep one... they'll be on the classifieds when i do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Was Hornady customer service called? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 not yet... i havent had many issues with the primers not going off but i check everything and reseat what doesn't cut it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewiston Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 (edited) This will sound dumb but it's coming from first hand experience. Make sure the primer seater punch is screwed all the way in. I was getting ready to call support last week until I reached under the sub-plate and realized it had backed out. Didn't register since it happened over a period of time. Snugged it up and all is well. Edited February 27, 2011 by Lewiston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 This will sound dumb but it's coming from first hand experience. Make sure the primer seater punch is screwed all the way in. I was getting ready to call support last week until I reached under the sub-plate and realized it had backed out. Didn't register since it happened over a period of time. Snugged it up and all is well. Thanks for posting that. Mine was loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewiston Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hope it helped. I now use lock-tite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CocoBolo Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hope it helped. I now use lock-tite. Good catch, I should have thought to mention that but I have mine in and out cleaning it so its just natural to have a 7/16" wrench next to the press. The added joy of loading major 9 with 10gr's of AA#7 cases darn near full to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewiston Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 ... The added joy of loading major 9 with 10gr's of AA#7 cases darn near full to the top. I'd say! Can't say I have the same issue with 45s and 4.1gr's of Clays. Add the RCBS lock out die and rarely do I have any stray powder on the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hope it helped. I now use lock-tite. I fixed that but it still is taking a lot of force to seat the primer. I don't know what to do. I switched brass. It just takes way more force then it should. I have to spin some of the primers to get the high spot to disappear. So thats a clue but I don't know what it means. THe primer nut under the shellplate is not bottoming out either. I just run out of ability to push hard enough to seat the primer. I have disassembled the punch/nut. It looks fine. It's just not right and can't figure out what to do next. I called hornady but waited so long that I had another call come in when they got around to me. I will try them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 It was a timing issue. Primer was just a little bit off from the primer hole. It's fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewiston Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 It was a timing issue. Primer was just a little bit off from the primer hole. It's fixed. Very cool. I finally had a gentleman at Hornady explain to me that the left pawl is adjusted for primer seating alignment and the right pawl is for die alignment. Much easier to adjust after that. Rik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 It was a timing issue. Primer was just a little bit off from the primer hole. It's fixed. Very cool. I finally had a gentleman at Hornady explain to me that the left pawl is adjusted for primer seating alignment and the right pawl is for die alignment. Much easier to adjust after that. Rik Instructions leave a little to be desired in that area. I though that mine was indexing fine because it was locking up in the indents. But apperently thats not always the 100% on center. I added a 1/8 turn to the left pawl and it started working fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 It was a timing issue. Primer was just a little bit off from the primer hole. It's fixed. Very cool. I finally had a gentleman at Hornady explain to me that the left pawl is adjusted for primer seating alignment and the right pawl is for die alignment. Much easier to adjust after that. Rik Instructions leave a little to be desired in that area. I though that mine was indexing fine because it was locking up in the indents. But apperently thats not always the 100% on center. I added a 1/8 turn to the left pawl and it started working fine. Not to be redundant- but high primers and/or junk under the plate can cause drag and screw up the timing/indexing as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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