Clemsum

Correct tension on the screws is critical, smoothing the metal surface and the disc tops and bottoms also helps. Multiple Heresy, I have 5 of these measures that I use on my Dillon 550, I leave the measure set up with the dies on a tool head for each caliber. On 2 calibers that I load both smokeless and Black Powder I have 2 measures. I just change the measure that is already set up for the correct load for that powder onto the tool head. I do use the "Pro" model hopper to accommodate the powder volume needed on the BP measures. I could not afford to do this with the Dillon Measures. I bought all but 1 of mine used from people who thought they needed "something better".

I made my extended slide plate from a peice of Brass I had left from another project. It is working well so far but I expect it will wear relatively quickly. Is the Teflon sheet you used Teflon coated steel and if so where can it be purchased?

Actually you don,t have to set the bullet on the case at station 4 with your right hand. With the Cop die in station 3 and charged -raise the shell plate - notice the mark on the Cop die - lower the shellplate and place the bullet on the case you just checked then rotate the shellplate and set a fresh case in station 1 with your right hand. After you have gotten the first case down from the Cop die, the sequence is place bullet, rotate, place case, pull handle down. Having said all of that, I had a cop die when I had a LNL-AP but have not felt the need for it since I moved to a 550. I just stand or sit so that I can see the powder in the case (a small charge of Titegroup in a 44-40 case for Cowboy shooting).

Thanks for the reply, I was afraid there would be a time consuming adjustment when I changed calibers.

I have been thinking about getting a Case Feeder for my 550 and I load 3 calibers right now, 38spl, 45acp & 44-40 but I have been hesitant to make the move fearing the caliber change over and adjustment would take a lot of time to get it working properly. If anyone who uses this feeder for multiple calibers could give an idea of the time needed for changing the feeder parts and adjustments I would appreciate it. Thanks, Clemsum

I have 4 of them they are cheap enough to set one up for each powder/ charge you need and leave them alone. I use the standard Auto Disc for 45ACP & 44-40 smokless loads and the Auto Disc Pro with Double Disc for Black Powder 38SPL & BP 44-40. I have tool heads set up with dies for my 550 in each caliber and just change the measure on the riser to go from BP to smokless for the 44-40. I have found the loads to be very consistant from throw to throw with all of them. Plus the Lee Powder through Expander works great on the Dillon 4 hole tool heads.

Thanks for the replies. I had e-mailed Dillon since I first posted this, and got the same answer as from Brian. I am comfortable working on my equipment, my first progressive press was a used Lee Pro1000. I rebuilt it and got really good at taking it apart and replacing the auto index drive parts when they stripped (frequently). Sold the Lee after a few weeks and bought a bargin basement 550B, took it apart cleaned it and ordered and replaced the missing parts, it looks and runs like new now. I have also gotten good at working on the LNL I want to replace. I agree that assembling it myself would be a good learning experience. For a change of pace, I wanted to try buying something I didn't have to work on before using it. I will order them seperatly after I sell the LNL-AP. Thanks again!

I am thinking of replacing the LNL-AP I use to load 38.spl w a Dillon 550 and I want to get it with a case feeder. Is it possible to buy the press already set up with the case feeder parts installed & adjusted from Dillon or Brian?? I really like my 550 that I use for LPP calibers and I don't like the LNL enough to spend more money on that press.

Thanks for the answer, I am new to Dillon and like it so far.

I recently bought a used Dillon 550 and cleaned it up & got it running and now I am reading the post on a couple of forums about Dillon products. I some times see references to a 550 and sometimes 550B. Is there a difference and if so what is it? Mine just has RL550 in the casting.

Nice group! Too bad it doesn't make major. That's right. Strictly a comfortable and accurate practice load that I liked when "trying out" Clays.

Try again with attachment. I am using 3.8gr Clays and a 200gr lead RNFP from Missouri Bullets in a Kimber Target II. The small group is with my forearm on a sandbag about 4" from my wrist, the larger is "offhand". Both are 5 shots at 25'.

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I had the same problem with some 45acp I loaded recently, I would get 1 or 2 in 100 with a flush seated primer. I was unable to detect this prior to firing and they fired on the second strike. Tonight I tried the primer cup addition and took some measurements with & without the cup added. Without the cup I got .694 from the top of the punch to the bench with the nut on the bench top. Added the primer cup and got .736 from the top of the punch with the nut all the way down, it looked like it was barely above the bench top but I did not try to measure the gap. I will find out how this mod holds up soon as I need to load more cartridges.

Have been reading about "Glock Bulge" in 40S&W and since I load range brass I decided I could make something similar to the Lee tool. I already had a Factory Crimp Die in 40S&W so all I needed was a case pusher and something to catch the sized cases. I started by using a fired 9mm case and then a fired 39spl case for a pusher but both would collapse when a larger than normal (over size chamber?)40 case went through the FDC. I had some JB Weld on hand so I tried filling a 38spl case with the weld ( deprime the case so air can escape from the case when you pack in the JB Weld). After hardening I filed the filled case mouth smooth & square. It now pushes the 40 cases w/o collapsing. For the catcher I drilled (cut) a 1" hole in the bottom of a "Cool Whip" container to insert the FCD and tighten the container between the die lock ring and the press. Added a 3/4" copper pipe connector to raise the case discharge above the top of the FCD but I don't think it is needed. (Hint) Put the lid on the container as some of the shells require extra effort(case lube helps even with the carbide die)to go through the die and when they do go through will eject out above the top of the container and onto the floor without it. Also found it best to start the 40 shell into the die by hand & then bring the ram/pusher up under it.

I saw an after market Bullet Tray on another site for $40+. Looked handy so I made one from a 1/4" u-bolt and a piece of shelf mounting channel and a Akro Bin all from the local hardware store for less than $10. I hammered the top of the U flat to clear the shellplate and bent the legs back to square, drilled the channel for the u-bolt and mounted it up. It supports 100 - 200 bullets with no problem. I also dipped the bolt in some Plasti Dip I had on hand to keep from damaging the press finish but that wasn't necessary.

I have a marbled 14 ball (white & green stripe) on a Rock Chucker, a marbled 15 ball (white & burgundy stripe) on a LNL-AP & a 8 ball on a Dillon 550. I really like the looks of the striped balls but A Neat was out when I ordered for the Dillon. These are head and shoulders better than the stock knobs.

I am trying to add pictures for the 1st time so bear with me. Copy 1 is the press as it sits on the wood plate I make & attach all my presses to the table with carriage bolts & wing nuts (same bolt pattern). It shows the tool head w dies & Lee Auto Disc and the primer feed and ejected shell bracket I ordered from Dillon. Also a 8 ball handle knob ,I got from A Neat (use them on all my presses, 100% better than stock). The primer feed did not come with a follower rod so I made one from a 1/8 wood rod I had on hand and a dummy .45acp round w 200gr SWC I drilled out to fit the rod. Copy 2 shows the press set up with a plastic basket case holder & an improvised bullet tray (microwave bacon tray) secured to the wood plate. As you can tell I like to adapt things to unintended uses. I don't think this is to bad for an ugly and nasty $40 press, $5 shell plate & about $125 in Dillon and other assorted parts. The dies and powder measure I already had.

Alvarez, I got the press going with the Lee Auto Disc and dies I already had and it works great. I ordered the primer assembly, tool head & some small parts from Dillon but before they arrived I found a used tool head in a local shop and wanted to see if the Lee stuff would work. Bought a 3/8 ball bearing & spring at the hardware store for the detent and cut the tool head pins from some 1/8 brass rod I had on hand (works as good as the genuine Dillon parts that came later). The only issue with the Lee dies is that they are a little short. I solved that by using the Hornady lock rings and they are actually just above the top thread but tightened down securely on the die. I installed the primer assembly when it came and ran off 100 rounds with no problem. The press cleaned up great and looks almost new. I will get the Dillon measure eventually but the press will do all I want it to now. If I figure how to post pictures, I will later.

I have a high primer once in a long while but thought I was not pressing the handle forward enough. I will check for the dimple. Thanks for the advise. TRUbor, GREAT avatar!! Clemsum

I bought a grungy looking incomplete 550B at a gun show today for $40. Tore it down and cleaned with brake cleaner and lubed. It now looks like new. It is missing a couple of small parts (detente ball & spring) that I am not concerned about but the entire primer system is missing and also the powder measure and tool head. Since I cannot call Dillon until Monday does anyone know about what a complete primer system costs? Also I have a Lee Auto Disc powder measure that works really well on my Rock Chucker, will it work with the 550 tool head? It would save some money, if I could wait on the Dillon measure. Thanks in advance, Clemsum