98sr20ve Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I had just cleaned the press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewiston Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 It was a timing issue. Primer was just a little bit off from the primer hole. It's fixed. Very cool. I finally had a gentleman at Hornady explain to me that the left pawl is adjusted for primer seating alignment and the right pawl is for die alignment. Much easier to adjust after that. Rik Instructions leave a little to be desired in that area. I though that mine was indexing fine because it was locking up in the indents. But apperently thats not always the 100% on center. I added a 1/8 turn to the left pawl and it started working fine. I agree, the manual could address this better. The first time I called they told me to adjust the right pawl w/o explaining what each one did. The last time I called the guy was great and spent 30 minutes helping me tweek the press. He was the one that described what each pawl did and that they may need to be minutely adjusted when you swap out the shell plate. Once I realized the left pawl was primarily for primer seating I was able to get it spot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mush from PA. Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) This has been posted before - I don't think the pictures will post so go to the link and copy - the text will explain: Bobotech on: http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=5450659&postcount=36 I spent quite a long time figureing out how to adjust those darned pawls. I came to a few conclusions. I should start a new thread but I'm just going to post here. First of all, the directions in the manual are confusing. I made pictures cuz pictures are easier. First picture: What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw LEFT (counterclockwise), the shell plate will rotate more RIGHT (clockwise). Next picture: What it shows is if you rotate the pawl screw RIGHT (clockwise), the shell plate will rotate more LEFT (counterclockwise). Rule 1: Left pawl adjusts the shell plate when it comes down. This is the one that causes problems with cases feeding into the shell plate or priming problems (they both rely on the the downstroke of the shell plate). Rule 2: Right pawl adjusts the shell plate when it goes up. This is the area that causes problems with cases entering the dies (jamming on the sizing die is the big problem child). The rest: Now, another key point to keep in mind about the clicks.. The manual says to listen for clicks as the shell plate is locked into place at the end of the press arm stroke. They don't explain it very well though. When I was first fighting the left pawl (shell plate problems with priming and case feeding), the manual said to listen for 2 clicks. They didn't explain that the clicks are VERY soft and I was mistaking the releasing of the RIGHT pawl being the first click when in reality, the proper click is a very soft one. The clicks are first the sound of the pawl releasing and the second click is the sound of the 2 ball bearings locking the shell plate into proper place. The key about that is you want the adjust the pawls so that the 2 distinct clicks merge into one click, that means the pawl is releasing exactly at the same time as the ball bearings are locking into place. If you are thinking that the loud clicking is the proper noise, then you are wrong like I was. And when adjusting these pawls, you need to move the press arm VERY slowly. Oh well, I hope these instructions help someone else. Edited February 28, 2011 by Mush from PA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) I've checked my timing and it still wont go below flush... the punch goes far enough to be flush with the nut and not far enough to press in the primer enough edit- typo Edited March 1, 2011 by TRUbor9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mush from PA. Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 This may be a dumb thought, but I gotta go with my strengths Did you check that you are using the small primer seater punch? The large punch would only press flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatekeeper Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) I had some high primers especially loading cci small rifle in 223. I've got the dimple in the press base as described by others and while troubleshooting I found that placing a penny under the seater (trying to isolate the dimple as the prob) helped but didn't eliminate the high primers entirely. It seems that the seater is just long enough to work 95% of the time, maybe Hornady didn't want to risk the liability of making them longer and have someone slam seat a primer and have a detonation. I was going to call and ask if they had a longer length seater when I thought I'd try a free fix. Removed the anvil from a spent small primer and attached the cup to the bottom of the seater with a drop of super glue. Works perfect now, No more high primer's. Was a temporary trial/fix but it has worked perfect through several thousand loads and is still going strong. Edited March 1, 2011 by Gatekeeper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clemsum Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) I had some high primers especially loading cci small rifle in 223. I've got the dimple in the press base as described by others and while troubleshooting I found that placing a penny under the seater (trying to isolate the dimple as the prob) helped but didn't eliminate the high primers entirely. It seems that the seater is just long enough to work 95% of the time, maybe Hornady didn't want to risk the liability of making them longer and have someone slam seat a primer and have a detonation. I was going to call and ask if they had a longer length seater when I thought I'd try a free fix. Removed the anvil from a spent small primer and attached the cup to the bottom of the seater with a drop of super glue. Works perfect now, No more high primer's. Was a temporary trial/fix but it has worked perfect through several thousand loads and is still going strong. I had the same problem with some 45acp I loaded recently, I would get 1 or 2 in 100 with a flush seated primer. I was unable to detect this prior to firing and they fired on the second strike. Tonight I tried the primer cup addition and took some measurements with & without the cup added. Without the cup I got .694 from the top of the punch to the bench with the nut on the bench top. Added the primer cup and got .736 from the top of the punch with the nut all the way down, it looked like it was barely above the bench top but I did not try to measure the gap. I will find out how this mod holds up soon as I need to load more cartridges. Edited March 22, 2011 by Clemsum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 ok well both are for sale now but i did try placing a small spent primer under the punch, where the dimple shows, and that helped alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=125569 They sent me a new sub-plate. I think it's solved my issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUbor9 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 ya they are very good about parts and maintinence but it has something to do with the length of the rod like gatekeeper said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sr20ve Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 The subplate and the machining on the subplate determines how high the primer punch rises. My punch now goes up twice as high, it's all in the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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