Mush from PA.

jtaylor996, Thank you, I did not know this product existed. $25 for the plastic one may be worth it after my bag of rubber bands runs out. By then there maybe another product. Handloaders are a creative bunch.

Thank you for the info. It is good to know. I do not have any o-rings but, I do have a bag of rubber bands that will take years to run out and they were free from a prior work project. What ever works.

Here is my fix to stop the Powder Measure from turning. A stout rubber band. It works good.

I think the RED VS BLUE is just funny. They are slightly different systems with the same end product. I also like the side by side comparison videos.

I bought a LNL 15 plus years ago after much research but the clincher was I found a guy that had a LNL he used once and was selling it for half price. I load half rifle and half pistol and I had all the dies I needed so the LNL was a better fit for me. A co-worker, a die hard BLUE PRESS fanatic (I think he wears only blue underwear to show loyalty) lives hours from our office needed to reload for a range session. I offered my RED press and he came over just to harass me and to load some ammo. I set the press up for him and he complained about the color of the press for two hours as the press ran flawlessly for him. I wanted to take a picture of him working the red press and that corkscrewed him into the ceiling over the thought of evidence he used a RED press. At the end of two hours he sat in front of that RED press and admitted (But said he would deny what he was about to say) That a LNL had some functions he liked better........ FORD, CHEVY, HONDA, etc - they get you where you're going if you can keep them running - IMHO........

It would be fun to have a 3D printer. I don't have one, so I drilled a hole in a juice bottle (after I drank the juice and washed the bottle out) the size of the OD of the tube. Works great.

I have about 20 plastic inserts that come with pistol ammo boxes dug out of trash bins at the range (yes, I reload...so I collect brass also). I found this idea from a u-tube video. Place the plastic insert in a metal pie pan or sheet cake pan then take a handful of 9mm cases and place the handful on top of the plastic insert. Shake the insert so the cases fall into the 50 holes in the insert. The base of the case is heaver than the open end so the case will mostly fall primer down. Any that do not can be picked out and flip primer side down. Keep pouring and shaking so all 50 holes are filled. Pick up the insert level and place the same size insert on top of the filled insert so the holes line up. Hold both inserts together and flip so the cases fall into the empty insert. This will place the open end of the case down so any water will drain out. I then place the filled inserts in a pie pan and place on top of the water heater or out side in the sunshine to dry. A bonus for 9mm and 380 cases mixed up, the 380 is shorter so you will see the difference in size when the brass is in the insert and can be picked out with medical tweezers. This also makes counting drying brass easy.

Semper Gumby - always flexible..... :-) How clean is clean enough? What ever works for you.

Did you truly compare the inside of the cases and the primer pockets for both methods? With or without pins, the outsides of the cases look perfect. Without pins, the insides of the cases and the primer pockets don't get as clean. I'd still consider them acceptable for most all loading purposes, but they are not as clean compared to using pins. Before I bought a vibratory tumbler using walnut shell media, I washed (let soak for several hours) my brass with hot water, dawn dish soap and a little white vinegar. The basic washing method did enough to clean so I could reload the brass with out damaging the dies. The wet tumbler with pins get the brass as close to "new brass" clean as you can get (IMHO). IMHO with out scientific testing, research, or any higher math - using the FA tumbler with out pins turning for one hour will get the brass clean enough to reload. I do not de-cap or really care how clean the inside of the case is. I will say the one hour tumbling will get the inside not quite as clean as "new" brass or tumbling with pins for two hours. You are all free to tumble or test any way you want to try. Whatever floats your boat. I am happy with hot water, soap, lemi-shine, and one hour tumbling. YMMV. Happy brass cleaning.

Update: I tried wet tumbling, one squirt Dawn dish soap, 1/8 teaspoon Lemishine, hot water, one hour tumbling. NO pins. Unless your brass is so caked with crap - I saw very little difference than two hours tumbling with pins. For me, now - no pins and one hour tumbling.

I got one and like it. No dust but it takes some rinsing to get all the black out of the wash water. I did get the larger pins and tumble for two hours. I am going to try with out the pins and only tumble for one hour.

My suggestion is go find both and try them. IMHO Hand loaders will let you try their press. After months of research on your exact question, I bought a used LNL and like it. A friend is a Blue press fan and has used my LNL. He admitted that the LNL does some things better but he is blue fan thru and thru. Either will work. Ford vs. some other car.

Thank you for the suggestion. I would agree with you normally. In my experience when steel "cuts" brass I can get a "curl" up to a half inch long on my Wilson trimmer down to a small chip. I call that tool head sharp with out really pressing hard. With the RCBS deburring tool I get a "chip" with little pressure down to what I call "dust". With the Frankford case prep no matter how hard I press for a 10 to 12 count sometimes I can hardly tell where the outside chamfer tool head touches the brass I only get sort of shine on the brass. The burr is still there so I dress it up with the hand chamfer tool. I do wish the Frankford tool had better tool heads and turned a little faster.

Well I have two RCBS Chamfer and Deburring tools and a Lee tool. With three twists I can "knock the burr off" any brass case I have - but with the outside deburrer on the Frankford Case prep tool after a 10 count of holding the brass into the tool I still had to use the RCBS tool to "deburr" the outside of the brass. So how dull or bad or ineffective is the Frankford Case Prep tool would you say they sent me?????? I read from other posters that they had the same problem but fixed it with "debur tool heads" from other manufactures. I just want a tool that works but after spending around $200 for the case center, I will have to spend around $100 more for "cutters" to get it to work as well as the hand deburrs.

Yes, I use the WFT in a hand drill, the inside trimmer in one cordless drill and the outside trimmer in another hand cordless drill. It was awkward but worked. So I bought the Frankfort trimmer. I do think the speed is slow and would be better if it turned faster.

I bought one in November. The supplied inside cutter works well. The trimmer cutter does not cut but more like smear the brass but not cut. The outside cutter does not cut but more shines the outside of the case mouth. I have an old RCBS hand inside and outside trimmer and it works with little effort. I called Frankfort and they said some cutters were shipped that did not cut brass. (The cutters cannot be sharpened Frankfort said). They sent me a replacement trimmer cutter and outside cutter. I replaced the outside cutter that stayed sharp for (100) 223 cases. Now it is back to polishing the out side case mouth. I went back to using my WFT (worlds finest trimmer) for the first pass at trimming a case then smooth the cut with the Frankfort trimmer. At some point I plan on buying some RCBS cutters for the Frankfort Trimmer.

What kind of grease (on the balls under the shell plate) did you use? More grease did not help?

Redding T-7 is a tank. Fit and finish is great. You will not be disappointed.

John R. - Thankyou!! the shot gun shell hull works great. I cut a notch to go around the "V" block.

In a P01 I shoot 115 lead round nose with great results.

I like the primer box cardboard. Inexpensive and creative. Duck Tape has a million uses. I do not have access to poly but that would be great. I do not wish to take from anyone's sales of the bin dam. I do like to make stuff myself....

I made some Bin Dams for the standard Hornady bin (made by Akro). Start with sheet Aluminum 0.035 thick (measured by caliber - I forgot what thickness I bought at the home center). Now you can fill up the bin with out cases falling out the front of the bin. Mark with a machinist scribe or razor knife. Width: 3 7/8 inch Hight: 2 1/2 top height: 1 1/2 bottom height: 1 inch right and left indent 7/16 Cut out with tin snips then cut the sharp ends at a 45 degree angle. Use 400 grit sandpaper to smooth any sharp edges. I placed in a bench vice to bend the top part of the "T" - - using a block of wood against the top of where the aluminum sheet meets the vice and evenly pressing the top part of the "T". Press back about 3/4 of an inch. The picture shows how far to push, do not put two sheets in to bend. One at a time.

My small primer tube works like a clock with a brass rod marked at 50 and 100 primers to push the primers down. When I use the same brass rod on large primers I always get the last primer go sideways when it reaches the bottom of the tube. I think if I used a wider brass rod the last primer would not twist. I just have a hard time spending the $10 to buy one.

I got the Ergo handle and the light kit. I had a injured right shoulder and was concerned if the handle would help or hurt. I was given a "try it or your money back by the guy who makes them". I recommend the handle and light to any one. The Ergo takes most of the "push pressure" out of reloading. I don't push anymore. I just lean into the press with my right arm fully extended. The light allows me to look into each case before topping with a bullet. It has all become my normal reloading flow pattern. I easily load 200 rounds per hour including putting primers in the tube and checking each case with a Wilson case checker.

Go to a Home store and buy a brass rod that fits into the primer tube to act as a feeding weight to keep the primers moving down the feed tube. THis will help the last few primers feed as well as the first.